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So this happened today :(

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So sorry for you after all your hard work. My heart goes out to you and I give you credit for everything you have gone through and done. My hat goes of to you.

The broken spring, I'm sure is the result rather than the cause

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That's really sad news. :(

I've heard of three potentially relevant causes for valve spring failure:

  1. Over-revving (although I don't see how this would break a spring - maybe localised heat build-up?)
  2. Poor quality metal used in manufacture
  3. Rust on the spring (which can result in failure in the same way a stress fracture would)

Could the spring have been exposed to damp while the engine was in pieces?

It certainly wasn't over revved.

I tried to protect the springs by keeping them soaking in jars of simple green before they were installed, and then when they were installed I coated then in crc or oil.

But yeah, building the engine under my house it probably gets a bit damp under there.

I don't suppose simple green concentrate damaged the spring, but who knows?

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So sorry for you after all your hard work. My heart goes out to you and I give you credit for everything you have gone through and done. My hat goes of to you.

The broken spring, I'm sure is the result rather than the cause

Thanks Glenn for your kind words.

What do you mean by 'result rather than cause'?

I would have thought that if a collet came off it would have done so on first start straight after the rebuild?

It was running smooth as before it went pop.

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That sucks man, i was so hoping you had sorted the issues once and for all.

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AH CRAP , that would really pi$$ me off .

sorry for your loss , after all your work.

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bummer, Nathan. sorry to hear of that.

something better will come.

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Bummer dude - that wasn't something I expected to happen!!!

Guy Fawkes is still quite a few months away yet! :ph34r:

If it was only idling, it may still be worth opening back up and see how bad the damage is.

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Interesting that the spring shear points are aligned with each other. Is there a possibility a collet might have been misaligned leaving the spring cap at an angle? Does seem pretty strange it would choose to let go at idle - I've seen the debris of an over-rev causing valve float and piston death, quite similar to your failed spring but the fractures weren't on the same plane. If you can bring yourself to conduct an autopsy I'd be fascinated to see the resulting carnage in the cylinder and on the crank. Did the engine entirely seize?

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Interesting that the spring shear points are aligned with each other. Is there a possibility a collet might have been misaligned leaving the spring cap at an angle? Does seem pretty strange it would choose to let go at idle - I've seen the debris of an over-rev causing valve float and piston death, quite similar to your failed spring but the fractures weren't on the same plane. If you can bring yourself to conduct an autopsy I'd be fascinated to see the resulting carnage in the cylinder and on the crank. Did the engine entirely seize?

Engine didn't seize but made terrible noises and the cylinder 4 spark plug became stuck in the head.

When I tried to remove the plug it was so tight it felt like it threaded itself and its still in there.

I would have thought a poorly aligned collet would have let go straight away - not 150kms after the rebuild?

If I can bring myself to look at the motor I will pop the head and take photos.

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Absolute bummer Nathan. I would certainly throw my toys if that happened. So bloody frustrating after all your time, money & patience.

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Engine didn't seize but made terrible noises and the cylinder 4 spark plug became stuck in the head.

When I tried to remove the plug it was so tight it felt like it threaded itself and its still in there.

I would have thought a poorly aligned collet would have let go straight away - not 150kms after the rebuild?

If I can bring myself to look at the motor I will pop the head and take photos.

I'd be inclined to agree, though sometimes strange stuff happens. Really feel for ya dude!

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It's a real kick in the nuts, but definitely give yourself a pat on the back for giving it your best shot. I'm sure you've learned alot through the whole ordeal which will prove invaluable on future projects.

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Bought another car to tide me over.

Another black motorsport e46 wagon, but with a m54b25 in it.

I need to pull the head off my car and have a look before I settle on which direction I'm gonna go, but its now officially a project car.

Will either put the m54 from the parts car in it or go full retard and squeeze in a m60 or m62.

I've just been so busy with work, and helping a mate with his e36, that I haven't had the time (or the heart) to pull the head yet.

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Just read through the entire thread and holly f*ck. What a legend, so sorry it didn't work out man.

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Bought another car to tide me over.

Another black motorsport e46 wagon, but with a m54b25 in it.

I need to pull the head off my car and have a look before I settle on which direction I'm gonna go, but its now officially a project car.

Will either put the m54 from the parts car in it or go full retard and squeeze in a m60 or m62.

I've just been so busy with work, and helping a mate with his e36, that I haven't had the time (or the heart) to pull the head yet.

f**k it dude, just junk it - you'll only lose more time and energy obsessing over something thats already dead.

Trouble with the M6x transplants into the E36/46 is the subframe vs sump issue. How about a single Vanos 3l stroked turbo M50? Better power, more torque and no engineering issues. Better yet, how about an LS1?

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f**k it dude, just junk it - you'll only lose more time and energy obsessing over something thats already dead.

Trouble with the M6x transplants into the E36/46 is the subframe vs sump issue. How about a single Vanos 3l stroked turbo M50? Better power, more torque and no engineering issues. Better yet, how about an LS1?

Its a good car, just needs a repower.

Could go the stroked 6 route too.

Wont go ls1 because its blasphemy to put a holden motor in a bmw.

The only car I would put a chevy engine into would be a hotrod or a kit car.

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Its a good car, just needs a repower.

Could go the stroked 6 route too.

Wont go ls1 because its blasphemy to put a holden motor in a bmw.

The only car I would put a chevy engine into would be a hotrod or a kit car.

like a TVR? :D

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f**k it dude, just junk it - you'll only lose more time and energy obsessing over something thats already dead.

Trouble with the M6x transplants into the E36/46 is the subframe vs sump issue. How about a single Vanos 3l stroked turbo M50? Better power, more torque and no engineering issues. Better yet, how about an LS1?

Modified e39 v8 subframe and boom.

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So after much umming and ahhing I've made a decision.

The car will become a project car and will get a m60/m62 and getrag 420g conversion.

This will be a long and expensive process, but it means I can take my time and do it right, and pick up the parts needed when they come available for cheap.

In the meantime I have a daily driver so there is no rush.

To help fund raise I am wrecking my parts car. If you want to help you can buy some parts of it;

http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/56147-wrecking-2001-325i-wagon/

Also I've never done a v8 swap into an e46, so any knowledge would be appreciated.

The internet has a bit of info, but you cant beat info from bimmersport members who have first hand know how.

I know subframe will have to either be swapped/modified or the sump modified to fit.

And if I go down the modified sump route then custom engine mounts have to be used.

Car will get brake and suspension upgrade, as well as chassis strengthening.

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