Suggest a car under 10k

[qube 3570]

friend of mine is looking for a reliable daily under 10k

that obviously rules out BMW so open to hear your suggestions

Keep in mind that what they want is a simple to run/maintain car, no DIY work as no mechanical knowledge.

requirement wise, probably looking at sedan but open to station wagon or hatchbacks, auto or manual is fine, probably something around 2008-2012 I would think.

I am thinking something like IS250, skyline 250gt, markx, accord euro(s), subaru legacy.. not too sure tbh. I only know BMWs haha

[Cammsport 390]

I had a skyline 300gt and would not recommend it. Classic 6 cyl problems with bleeding the coolant/overheating. Failing coils due to heat etc. 

I reckon Accord Euro is the ticket. Cheap parts, still look fairly modern, Honda reliability, safe, economical etc. My 2c.

[Driftit 2078]

Some sort of boring Mazda 3 would be my choice.

But who knows. All that "reliable" stuff has been well neglected. It's just luck these days.

[Gaz 1061]

Picked up an 08 Mondeo for the Mrs and family duties for 5k and has treated us well so far. Some of the interior trim is starting to come away but it does have 180km. They are plentiful so getting replacement parts should be easy enough

[Jacko 2156]

2x 130s. If one breaks, just bust the other out, and avoid the whole average as hell generic 2l box on wheels situation. 

[dirtydoogle 383]

The IS250 has some issues but the IS350 is a great car. 

The Mondeo is a nicer car to be in than most of the Japanese stuff by far and would be my second recommendation 

As Driftit said, most of the reliable stuff has been neglected. So you find a lot of the 1st gen mazda 3s and 6s like to drink some oil, love a good cam chain rattle too. 

 

Forgot the Accord, solid option, great car. 

Edited June 18, 2019 by dirtydoogle
Forgot teh honduks

[kwhelan 241]

for that money your in the v36 skylines which are bullet proof, don't go 2.5 though as they were built for taxis only in japan to meet there stupid regulations. the 3.5 is better in every way and actually cheaper on gas. I have a 3.7 and its the best car Ive owned in years, cost nothing but an oil change every year and eats long trips at alarming rates 245kw and I get 700km from a tank.

take one for a test , you will be impressed,great brakes, handling too, small boot is the only negative

https://www.drifted.com/vq37vhr/

[Palazzo 477]

Mazda 3 SP25 hatch or sedan. 

 

With some negotiation:

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/mazda/auction-2160321381.htm?rsqid=9cb861167ef8489cb6b1b9b2b31e4be7-003

[qube 3570]

i think the v36 skylines are nice, even the 250gt was a comfortable car to sit in, wasnt aware they had issues. I would have thought the 3.5/3.7 would be quite thirsty. friend had a 370gt and it was awesome, performance and sound, ride quality all excellent. 

 

[qube 3570]

https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=2155588915

this looks pretty damn good, price, spec, etcetc

[qube 3570]

https://www.trademe.co.nz/2181126891

mondeo for 7k nz new low kms

[aja540i 1906]

Leaf.

[BlackrazorNZ 83]

I've just sold my 2014 Hyundai i30 Elite CRDi (1.6L turbo diesel) with leather seats, decent mags, auto lights etc etc and a brand spankers set of tires and 120k on the clock, for $10k

It's been a great car, plenty of torque and eats up the miles.

$10k will get plenty of car if you know what to look for.

Edited June 19, 2019 by BlackrazorNZ

[qube 3570]

so.. tell me what to look for? please? haha

[Eagle 1662]

18 hours ago, qube said:

that obviously rules out BMW so open to hear your suggestions

Unless he wants something modern then this is just plain wrong. Id never tell anyone to get a BMW for the sake of it and there's is much better selection for the usual makes no doubt.

One of my friends is still rocking his E36 318is he bought in 2006 for 10k and its cost him next to nothing. If i bought something like a 10k E36 318is these days off someone who really looks after cars then id trust its reliability would be as good if not better than most cars.  

I DD'd my old E34 535i manual with 450,000km on it for years without spending or doing hardly any work on it. 

Plenty of good reliable and cheap to run BMW's

 

[qube 3570]

yes i agree with you but "normal" people dont see it that way and anything over 100-150kms is scary to them. 

also, people dont spend big money on a reliable old car with service history, they spend the littlest possible money on the cheapest on the market of a new import or one with dubious history.

they are then left with bad impressions as to why the car failed even though its a "german engineered vehicle".

 

btw,  blackrazor, had a look at the i30 crdi, cheapest is like 12k. pity i didnt know about your car, would have been perfect at 10k with those specs.

 

[Eagle 1662]

Yeah when you live a newer=better society that's what usually happens, applies to many things. I do my best to explain to people when i can and that's about all i can do.

Despite the number of fools operating under a false economy when it comes to car maintenance, there are normal people who don't mind spending on maintenance and know the reason for it. Hopefully your friend is in this category.

As far as suggestions go if you want the cheapest to run\maintain smaller is better, Toyota Yaris\Vitz or Honda Fit\Jazz in manual or CVT are quite decent in sport versions like the RS etc.

[kwhelan 241]

its the little things, high kms means wear, seat springs, windows mechs, door handles, key barrels,hinges, rubber seals on doors boot etc the engine and drivetrain can be fine but when you start talking shocks, steering, braking everything has a life, they may still be working but they are never tight like  a low kms car, of course some old cars are immaculate and some new ones are cheap weak crap but generally eventually you do tire of older vehicles when you step in a reasonable newer one

[coop 261]

We bought an ex rental 2012 Corolla to replace the E46 diesel. Last of the old shape but the 2013 new shape can now be picked up for under $10k. 

Nothing exciting about it but the BMW was becoming temperamental and I cbf working on a ‘daily’ on a monthly basis like I was with the BMW (crank pulley, window regulator, LCAs, blower motor not going). The Corolla with 140k on it will likely last another 10 years and 200,000km with minimal R&M. 

 

Corolla gets down to 5.6 open road and 8-8.5 around Wellington city (hills and short running). 

The 320d was 6.0 open road and the same around the city. A return trip to Auckland sees the Corolla over $50 cheaper after RUC taken into consideration. 

Also considered NZ new Honda Accord Euro 6 speed manual (no decent ones on the market), Mazda 3, Mazda 6, E87 130i and Ford Mondeo 2.3.  The Mondeos are good value for money, and it appears the 2.3 are near bullet proof. But they aren’t Japanese, so no price premium, or they carry the stigma of being a Euro car (so apparently costly to run). 

Was really tempted to go a 120d or Alfa 159 diesel that was on the market at the time but similar story to the 320d, no doubt I’ll be chasing my tail with issues further down the track and diesel is false economy in small cars. 

[aja540i 1906]

Seriously, you won't get a more reliable 10k car now than a Leaf, be wary there are some worn out ones in that price range, but some good ones as well. An EV might not suit the driving they are doing but they would be missing an opportunity if they don't at least consider it.

[coop 261]

3 hours ago, aja540i said:

Seriously, you won't get a more reliable 10k car now than a Leaf, be wary there are some worn out ones in that price range, but some good ones as well. An EV might not suit the driving they are doing but they would be missing an opportunity if they don't at least consider it.

Your statement kind of contradicts itself.

there are some worn out Leafs for $10k but you won’t find a more reliable car at that price...

So is it safe to just any Leaf and no dramas?

 

I’d be interested in seeing how a Leaf will go long term. See my intentions of running our $8k Corolla for another ten years and 200,000km, with what I think will be minimal R&M. 

How do you think a 7 year old Leaf will fare with the same expectation? Are there any high mileage examples getting around with service and repair history? 

 

What is your real world range from your Leaf, and does driving with the heater/air con on, and head lights significantly reduce range? 

 

I watch from from a distance how the govt tackles EV RUC. I think it was once NZs electric vehicle fleet reaches 2% that they will be subject to RUC. Providing the Govt don’t tax petrol cars further, the appeal of EV from a cost and convenience point won’t be as high as what it is now. 

[aja540i 1906]

The simple reality is that even a worn out Leaf has fewer maintenance requirements than even the most reliable ICE car. When I say worn out I am purely referring to battery state of health, which is much easier to check than internal combustion engine state of health!

Your $8k Corolla over 200,000 km will require possibly 20 oil changes, that's 20 more than a Leaf, plus spark plugs, coils, a starter motor and/or alternator, fuel and air filters etc, none of which a Leaf has.

Real world range is a separate issue and one that each potential owner needs to research and compare with their requirements, mine is about 120km, slightly less if the a/c is on, which is perfect for the driving I do. The headlights don't affect the range in an EV any more than they do in an ICE car!

I also think it's a bit .laughable to assume the government won't tax petrol further, or that the cost won't continue to rise for other reasons.

I am not sitting on my high horse saying everyone should drive an EV , I don't believe that, but people who are in the market that they are who just dismiss them without a thought are missing an opportunity. 

[gjm 3258]

13 hours ago, Eagle said:

Unless he wants something modern then this is just plain wrong. Id never tell anyone to get a BMW for the sake of it and there's is much better selection for the usual makes no doubt.

One of my friends is still rocking his E36 318is he bought in 2006 for 10k and its cost him next to nothing. If i bought something like a 10k E36 318is these days off someone who really looks after cars then id trust its reliability would be as good if not better than most cars.  

I DD'd my old E34 535i manual with 450,000km on it for years without spending or doing hardly any work on it. 

Plenty of good reliable and cheap to run BMW's

Get a 2000/2001 E46 318i (M43 engine). There are some very good, low mileage ones around that have been used, just not too extensively. Economical, simple, reliable (get someone to check/sort the cooling system pipes and thermostat) - look after it and it's good for 300k++.

13 hours ago, qube said:

yes i agree with you but "normal" people dont see it that way and anything over 100-150kms is scary to them. 

also, people dont spend big money on a reliable old car with service history, they spend the littlest possible money on the cheapest on the market of a new import or one with dubious history.

they are then left with bad impressions as to why the car failed even though its a "german engineered vehicle".

 

btw,  blackrazor, had a look at the i30 crdi, cheapest is like 12k. pity i didnt know about your car, would have been perfect at 10k with those specs.

In bold - sad but true. Most people see a new-ish, low mileage car as a good buy. That's the only reason there are s many Tiidas and similar on the roads - and there's a reason they're shipping out of Japan by the ship load at just 12 months old. They're not serviced, they're not looked after.

9 hours ago, aja540i said:

Seriously, you won't get a more reliable 10k car now than a Leaf, be wary there are some worn out ones in that price range, but some good ones as well. An EV might not suit the driving they are doing but they would be missing an opportunity if they don't at least consider it.

This is (imho) excellent advice. At the very least, look into it, consider it. Try one. Leafs aren't the only option, of course.
And yes- there are battery replacement costs to consider, but (and Andrew can do the math) it doesn't work out to be expensive over the use and time period that'll be needed, especially when taking servicing and running costs of an ICE car into account. I'll have a 20-30km each way trip for work soon, and this really starts to make a lot of sense in that scenario.

[qube 3570]

happy with the discussions this topic is bringing but an EV/Hybrid is out of the question. just personal preference (of the buyer) and also a bit of fear that hybrids are more expensive to fix if and when it goes wrong as opposed to a common run of the mill production car like a civic accord corolla etc.

If it was me I would be all over something like an E46 318i as graham suggested but we are looking for something a bit newer that does not need any work like sagging headliners, falling interiors, also the myriad of random electrical and annoying little problems that you get with a car around 2000 now. I think it can all be avoided by going for something thats around 10 years old and around 100-150kms. remember the budget is 10k not 5k, and we want the best and no-hassle car for 10k not a 5k+5k maintenance and fix it up nice situation.

[E30 325i Rag-Top 2956]

If you want a $10k reliable car, then that would rule out the Subaru Legacy - when you get down to that price level on those they are entering the "captain, she's gonna blow" period of their life when something has either just popped and the owner wants rid, or owner is scared it's about to pop.

Great cars, great fun, especially the 4wd twin turbos, incredibly versatile wagons, but when they start to go.. wholly hecka.