Is This Where The E30 Market Is Now..?

[Ghost Chip 188]

8 minutes ago, Sammo said:

If you've lined up a B25 and tranny, I'd be looking at this little beauty to re-power

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/listing/3033086804?bof=8qTjifg7

Yeah it’s a b25, would it be hard to cert 1.6 to 2.5? Also I think 316i don’t come fitted with AC

[Ghost Chip 188]

8 minutes ago, E28E30 said:

Or this for $2k as a real project

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-3012129891.htm

I have a real weird criteria in my head haha. If I’m going full resto, I’d rather it be a coupe. But if interior/exterior is relatively tidy already and just need to repower then open to sedans for the right price.

[E28E30 335]

Just now, Ghost Chip said:

I have a real weird criteria in my head haha. If I’m going full resto, I’d rather it be a coupe. But if interior/exterior is relatively tidy already and just need to repower then open to sedans for the right price.

Think that makes sense   where did you source the manual bits and bobs from?

[Ghost Chip 188]

Just now, E28E30 said:

Think that makes sense   where did you source the manual bits and bobs from?

The fb post I posted up on here. Bit of a gamble but probably gonna need to rebuild any engine that I end up buying anyway.

[Olaf 3314]

8 hours ago, Ghost Chip said:

Yeah it’s a b25, would it be hard to cert 1.6 to 2.5? Also I think 316i don’t come fitted with AC

A/C is uncommon on 316i (could you even option it on the 103hp poverty-spec model?), some 318i have it.  

You'd want to go to disc rear end (most 316 and 318 are drum rear and solid fronts) and 6cyl vented front brakes (rotors, calipers),  with new hoses, caliper rebuilds, pads, rotors.   Anything less will be under-braked for your 170hp powertrain.

You'll need 6 cyl springs for the extra weight, so might as well do your shocks while you're at it and don't cheap-out (so factor H&R+Koni, or Eibach+Bilstein), and you'll want the 6 cyl ARB.  In fact it's thirty years old so do a full suspension bushing refresh front and rear incl rear subframe & trailing arm bushes,  lollipops and LCA bushes (or just replace the LCAs as they're not expensive) at the front, along with strut mounts, bump stops, booties.  You'll want to replace the diff mount on the medium case diff your 6 cyl conversion came with, unless it's looking fresh.

Auto to manual, do all your shifter bushings and a Z3 1.9 short shift, easier to do it now. 

You'll need a 6 cyl plug for your cluster if converting from 4 cyl, so the tacho reads right.

As you're certing, might as well do a purple tag rack conversion.  

If it came on steel wheels, you'll need bottle caps as a minimum for the fatter calipers - as the pads wear the'll end up contacting the steel rims.  Avoid cheap tyres when you go to get it on the road after spending all that money, the wreckers are littered with e30's where a damp road has been encountered and the tyres &/or driver experience isn't up to it.

Doing cooling system refresh as part of your M20 install?  You'll need the bigger radiator (if it didn't come with your M20 conversion) as the 4 cyl is a lot smaller.  Maybe change all those old hoses and waterpump whie it's out as precautionary maintenance?  Or defer till later and keep a watchful eye on it.

OE/OEM parts are reasonably inexpensive but the prices mount.  If you're doing it yourself you're saving labour at least.    

If you've bought a $4-5k M20B25 full drivetrain (rad to diff), and pay $12-15k for a clean 4cyl coupe, then add the costs above, you're around $20-25k certed and on the road with a clean tidy sorted car with no maintenance headaches.  

And people think e30's are cheap!

[Sammo 2542]

@Olaf Indeed - this is why I'm saving my pocket money to make the transition in the next 9 months or so (when we are looking to  buy another house with a garage).

I'm thinking (hoping) about $35K should do it 🤣

[Southerner 146]

@Olaf is on the money, if you do plan on swapping in a b25 then the chassis doesnt really matter as youll be upgrading most things.

Also as mentioned they aren't cheap, nor is it a cheap way to do it. Sometimes if the end goal is desired to be a factory car its cheaper and easier in the long run to do that from the start.

I done a quick talley up a few months ago on what i could remember spending on my project and nearly fell off my chair, its not a cheap process but done correctly is worth it in the long run,

I started off with the 318 and converted to m52, basically i just went looking for a chassis as i had the motor before the car so ended up with a 318 as generally speaking this are cheaper than the 6cyl

[Olaf 3314]

this is why - having done allmost all of the work mentioned above on mine, I'm going M42.  Still have to cert it.  But the car will be a 318iS replica, and the only stuff I end up 're-doing' is the cooling system hoses.  

The brakes, suspension, all of the bushes are already done.  If I went to M5x (the sensible move) I'd be up for springs, change to medium case diff etc etc.

@Southerner I stopped adding mine up ages ago.  The accounting terms is "f#*king heaps*.  Though the smiles per mile make it all worthwhile.

Edited June 2, 2021 by Olaf
318iS, not 325!

[Ghost Chip 188]

Looks relatively tidy.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-3119191390.htm

[Sammo 2542]

7 minutes ago, Ghost Chip said:

Looks relatively tidy.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-3119191390.htm

Yeah, wouldn't take too much to get it sorted. Was listed for ages late last year, kind of wonder if there is something wrong with it as $13k for a decent looking certed M52 manual Coupe is a good buy.

[leichtbau 525]

42 minutes ago, Sammo said:

Yeah, wouldn't take too much to get it sorted. Was listed for ages late last year, kind of wonder if there is something wrong with it as $13k for a decent looking certed M52 manual Coupe is a good buy.

The massive patch of bog in the passenger door looks like it's only the tip of the iceberg.

[Simca 49]

4 minutes ago, leichtbau said:

The massive patch of bog in the passenger door looks like it's only the tip of the iceberg.

I have never not seen huge patches of bog like that crack and rust underneath...

[Ghost Chip 188]

9 minutes ago, Simca said:

I have never not seen huge patches of bog like that crack and rust underneath...

What do you mean?

[Sammo 2542]

9 hours ago, Ghost Chip said:

What do you mean?

 

[BMTHUG 1041]

2 hours ago, Sammo said:

 

Jeeezooosss

[Ghost Chip 188]

16 hours ago, Simca said:

I have never not seen huge patches of bog like that crack and rust underneath...

@Sammo oh, yeah I saw that but I was trying to figure out what simca actually meant.

Did simca mean that those that he’s seen patches of bog like that has always had crack and rust underneath?

[Simca 49]

5 minutes ago, Ghost Chip said:

@Sammo oh, yeah I saw that but I was trying to figure out what simca actually meant.

Did simca mean that those that he’s seen patches of bog like that has always had crack and rust underneath?

I realised after reading back over it it is a bit heavy on the double negatives. I'm just trying to say that it's only time before that big patch of bog will start rusting underneath and start cracking off. I've seen it happen a fair bit before, no car is safe, especially not if the bog already looks like that.

[Ghost Chip 188]

24 minutes ago, Simca said:

I realised after reading back over it it is a bit heavy on the double negatives. I'm just trying to say that it's only time before that big patch of bog will start rusting underneath and start cracking off. I've seen it happen a fair bit before, no car is safe, especially not if the bog already looks like that.

Thanks for clarifying, I assumed that’s what you meant but just wanted to know for sure

[Olaf 3314]

so you factor in some welding, or a door skin, or a door if you can find one for a coupe.   You can pick holes in it from your armchair, or you can get an inspection done (by a BMW specialist!) or go see it for yourself.  They're thirty year old classics, a perfect one will cost you over $30k now, and if it's rare it'll cost you $60k.  They all need work, it's a question of being sure what needs doing, and is it worth it to you. 

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2132]

On 5/30/2021 at 1:21 PM, E28E30 said:

Thank you @_ethrty-Andy_ so the Facebook one iS a facelift, but has the smaller rear lamps?  May need my glasses on... 

I think your auto to manual swap, if anything, adds to the value of yours as it comes with all the parts to return it to factory issued spec, a great approach imho.

 

No, its not a facelift. Its a prefacelift with an aftermarket fiberglass replica Mtech2 kit.

[Sammo 2542]

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/wheels-tyres/alloy-wheels/listing/3123460694

$2250 reserve for 15” weaves.

[Sammo 2542]

M54B30 has got to shuffle along in an E30!

Certed for everything except engine, and looks like needs a little love but solid base for a wicked sedan.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-3123801682.htm

[Gaz 1059]

8 minutes ago, Sammo said:

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/wheels-tyres/alloy-wheels/listing/3123460694

$2250 reserve for 15” weaves.

Bloke is on crack. There are few sets on ebay for less than £500

[Driftit 2078]

51 minutes ago, Gaz said:

Bloke is on crack. There are few sets on ebay for less than £500

Yeah but some twat offered $2250 buy now...
Awesome though.  I have a set of these in storage.  There is actually heaps of them around.  All the E30 series cars use to run them.  They are not rare at all.

[Gaz 1059]