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The more i sanded the more i had a better idea of what i want, so I will be getting rid of the BBS Reps and replacing them with some other wheels (not the ones seen below, but they do look cool) I will also be doing some tints and other funky bits

Someone please buy this and keep it safe for a year or two so i can buy it. I know plenty wont like this colour on this car but I do. LSB ceramic brakes extended leather drool https://trademe.nz/motors/cars/bmw/m6/listing/2283571935

Hey so i thought I'd share my latest retrofit project. Couple of my mates have f8X m cars after seeing the seats i wondered if they fit the e92. I couldn't find any info or even pictures on google. After acquiring some from a damaged f80 i got to work trying to fit them. At first i was pleased to find they bolted directly in. I swapped the connectors from f80-e92. With only 5 wires(power,canbus,lighting). It was easy to swap. The car did not like the f80 seat module at all and quickly rejected it. Because of the can protocol between the chassis. And with the canbus connection removed the wake up signal was no longer being conveyed and after 10sec the seat shut down. Luckily the passenger seat was simply a high current switch. All worked as it should except the heated seats. Using the e92 seat module i use it to simply work the heated seats instead of all other seat functions it used too. After playing around it was looking as though it would not be possible aside from a can emulator that would relay the wake up signal. However this isn't easy. I was running out of ideas. I brought a very cheap pair of seats from a x1 at first for parts but then noticed it used the same style of connectors as the f80 but the car was only a 2010. Part of a total fluke i tested the module out and to my surprise it worked. It was enough to makes the seat stay awake however no heated seats because the x1 seats weren't heated. After that i was stoked and immediately sourced the heated version of the same module which worked perfectly. Only last remaining problem is because they were from a 4 door the seats do not release forward which is a problem in a 2 door so ill order the parts and try convert them?

Caliper and rotor sizing usually different. May be able to get aftermarket brackets and steel rotors to fit though.

I was invited to watch it at the media company. I'll ask the guy for a link or hard copy to up load ?

Never tried youshop... but its on the way to oregon for $10... Which seems like a better deal. Lady on the chat support couldnt understand why I thought $1600usd was unreasonable.

Hmm

The ATE rotors, and all the rotors mentions on this page, will be fine with the mentioned pads, there's no compatibility risk at all. Fitness for purpose is an entirely different discussion of course.

No, the industry allows you to choose what ever you want to purchase and fit to your vehicle. Mix and match at your own peril. Rotor and pad materials vary considerably and the mix matches may not give you a safe braking system, depending on how you are using the vehicle. Race/rally/track systems are not really suited to daily/ family or every day driving use.

Its possible to get metallurgy of the rotors and pads incompatible, so the pads dont correctly bed in to the rotors, and leave uneven deposits, which leads to crazy weird runouts/squeeling/sadness. If you want good "stock" brakes run ATE rotors and pads, guaranteed to work. Mixing and matching could result in an expensive mess. Im currently looking at rotors and pads for my BMWP/135i setup, stoptech rotors and pads are looking good (ATE dont make rear rotors to suit) and are priced reasonably.

Its a n M52 B30. M54 crank pistons rods in an m52 block.

I'll withdraw my ATE recommendation. I should have read all the previous posts before I engaged in conversation. ATE rotors will probably not suit the pads you are purchasing from the states. Compounds and compatibility are critical when matching pads & rotors, depends on how the vehicle will be used and the demands on the braking system. The offer to call me still stands.

You will not regret going for the ATE option even if the cost didn't come into the equation. If you would like some help with pricing, give me a call Ph 021921377 I would also add...these must be fitted correctly... I can help with the correct procedure in a phone call

@Herbmiester The ZF behind M5x is perfect (that's what E46 manual 330i/330ci's had). In terms of clutch and flywheel, you have the NZAD setup which is $800-1200, or what I did which was an RHD Engineering flywheel (single mass, lightweight cromoly), e28 M5 'M30' clutch from FCPEuro and a matching pressure plate sourced locally. All up $900 ish. The M30 spec flywheel and clutch are the 240mm clutch size, rather than the smaller m20 210mm size.

So last week, during the heavenly breaks of rain, I had an idea to do something different with the ol 28er, as running the Rust Patina look for nearly 4 years began to make the car look a little ordinary ? (too me at least) and after having seen 2 other euros with the same look on a matter of weeks, i decided to park it up and begin sanding it back to bare metal. After 15 minutes and 4 sanding pads, i knew this would take longer than expected. So off to Mitre10 to grab a supply of sanding disks and a few more bags for the vacuum cleaner haha Over the last week, i have managed to get 90% of the sanding done

I probably have these. Let me take a look.

Replaced the fuel filter while access is easier up on axle stands. The one I found was dated 2006 so bonus point for it’s owner in Japan.

Z4 m40i looks better IRL than in pics, esp in silver

Yikes. Maybe I got the Herbie version?

Just daily it - YOLO

Monstrously decadent wanker tank

Yearly oil over the surface rust. Every 12 months we burn off the clear coat and allow it to rust up a little mor when coat it in used engine oil and with this heat, it bakes it in quite well.

Wanted to chat with the owner but was in a rush. Very nice m5