Leaderboard

or buy my V12 E34 Touring for not much more. All front suspension less than 5000km old, most of it 2000km tops. just some bushes in the back still to do but havent bothered with that, plenty of life there still. Shameless plug!

Thought it might be useful to put up a thread about where Bimmersport members are travelling in case of any interest in parts/things overseas that people want inspected, or brought back. I'll go first. I'm heading to Brisbane for a few days next weekend. I know its not a motoring mecca but if anyone has eyes on anything there, wants it checked out, or wants something brought back to NZ just give me a bell. NB. if you are a new member with two posts total, done in the 20mins before contacting me I probably won't do it for you...

MH370 victims that never collected their cars.......

Plus... 12 is better than 8 for the girls.

Got my bimmer back today!! after two weeks on bus...hit a new high today when there were a number of homeless people on it yelling at each other. Toy Shop really looked after me, fixed a number of things and got a wheel alignment done for me and sorted my pesky temperamental right headlight. Super super happy and can't recommend John + Welly T.S crew enough! now someone buy it. hahaha

Scored an E38 728i 2000,Titanium Silver, only done 107,000k , for $2800. Full of goodies, awesome cruiser, economical as well, 37mpg on a trip. Photos to follow

I always thought that Jules was more of a Centre?Play nicely children or the mod stick will have to come out.

Teach you how to drive properly? Where do you pull this rubbish from. It is not hard how to figure out how to push a clutch pedal down. So daily driving would be 99% and track driving 1%. Make sure the daily part is comfortable. Last thing you want it a shitty old manual driving in Auckland Traffic.

cruel

after owning my e30 for around 6 months, i wanted to make the car my own so i have decide to do a m20b25 turbo build on my 1990 320i, i bought the m20b25 and have gotten it completely striped and ready for a full rebuild, this will be a slow process but at the end it will be worth it

Just saw this interesting article: http://www.nzherald.co.nz/nz/news/article.cfm?c_id=1&objectid=11417381 Tints? Even legal 35%ers? .....make cars "more attractive to thieves and increases the risk" Well not to be crass nor insensitive, but does me wearing make up make me more attractive to a rapist? Therefore I can be attributed some blame? I do not buy this argument, sounds like utter bullsh*t. What does everyone else think?

Im working next to a field of abandoned cars,some have been here more than 6 months.

Many insurance companies have been cited as using absolutely any possible excuse to deny a pay out. Non-standard wheels are a favourite; they may be the right size and specification, but if they aren't original (and you've not told the insurance company) then some companies will refuse to pay on an accident or theft. The cert system in NZ does go some way to helping with this. If you've performed a mod that requires cert, haven't go that cert (even if it has passed WoF), then an insurance company will take a dim view. It's a hassle, but it's nothing when compared to Germany's TuV. (Health insurance is another. Sure, if you've had a heart attack and not told the company then don't expect any sympathy. However, even minor and seemingly insignificant historical health issues have been used by insurance companies to reduce or refuse pay out.) (Sensible, legal) tints being an insurance risk? Sounds like rubbish to me. Some manufacturers offer tints either as an option or standard. Does that mean the original build and options specification should be submitted to an insurer as a part of any application (or claim)?

welcome! nice plaster hahaha

I don't really see how Ron is 'trolling'.. He's just making his valid point clearly with out beating around the bush. The experience between a DCT and a true manual is pretty significant. Pulling a plastic paddle is considerably different to the process of shifting gear and operating the clutch pedal in a synchronized manner. No doubt a true manual car gives you greater control and connection with the car, especially on a track. Automated manuals are just another way to disconnect from a more involved driving experience, sure they can be quicker and fun, but the difference is anyone can flick a paddle, no skill involved with that, but shifting fast in a true manual is something not everyone can do.

The context was the OP suggesting an M3 with DCT might be a great compromise for road vs track use but as usual Ron took the opportunity to jump on his high horse and slip in a throwaway insult or two. Support that if you wish but I call it trolling. Being able to drive a manual on road or track doesn't make any of us better drivers than someone who drives an auto, it just makes us better at driving a manual. I don't think I'm a better programmer than the Android developers because I learnt on a ZX81.

No you don't .... I can wind the speedos back and change all the info needed with the eproms onboard (even the Motorola chips). You just need the right tools and know how. I've actually been tempted to do a write up on it - not to teach people on how to clock their cars, but more to what to look out for if it has been clocked

I'm in Sydney until the 26th ! :~)

Hahaha I didn't look at it properly and thought "omg they abandoned Harold?!?!?!"

Id rather make a stupid request knowing that it wont happen and have a chuckle.

Found some Alloy ones on ebay Australia that were a perfect fit - first set I'd seen online as the Oettinger outside diameter (68.1mm) appears to be very uncommon. Got SJ to whack them on today as they were quite snug - Massive difference, steering is much tighter, no more pulling to the left slightly and no more shaking at 100-110km.

Its been awhile. So I bought these massive ex-commodore arrows three piece wheels late last year. I got Arrows to bore the hub out to 72.6, so that's sorted. I got the 275/40 17 mounted. As far as my investigations on googleland showed me...there were not bigger widths on any size rim that could actually fit without a wide-body kit or similar, so I played it safe. The yanks throw 305 and 315 widths on 11's but as far as I could tell it wont really work on an E34. So..I was told they were ET20. I did some calculations and there are actually 22.5. Not the best way to go, so I try to fit them, and bang, trailing arm. Out comes the grinder, then the whole fit, grind, fit, grind, fit, grind, fit...anyway quite a bit of grinding later it still doesn't fit. Bang...Shock absorber, and I think the original thinner shocks would have been better, but hey. So I put some spacers in there,and yeah like a very long triangle, a 10mm extension at the bottom, might give you a couple of mm or so. Doesn't help that when you drop your car the camber is positive till you drive a few metres then the tops roll in naturally and bam, hits the shock absorber, so after making some horrible grating noises with the rim trying to carve into the side of the shock...I buy some hub-centric 10mm spacers with extended lugs. Better this time, I will still weld the plate into the rear trailing arm but even with the spacer its close everywhere, it did hit my mildly rolled lips, but with some more rolling, it might get there...next week. Enough for today, too warm and I got to get to The Eagles. Heres a pic, what ya reckon?

more

Ron, your trolling is sensational.

Spent the afternoon doing some more stripping and de looming. Aircon and Heater system proving to be a nightmare to take out. Also ordered some parts for this and the E39s from Pelican. Haha having 3 BMW is costly some times

Hit the 100,000 km mark of the E46 M3 SMG over the past week. It's been 52,000 kms of great motoring over the past 3 years. Have only had to sort rear view mirror and power steering hose. Quite good really for a 13 y/o

As it says I am looking to fit a centrifugal supercharger to my my M50B25TU. The supercharger is a Chinese made jobbie that I am still gathering info on but according to the guy I am getting it off is rated to around 400 HP. My goal is 280-300 WHP at 6-8 psi so I am not looking to go crazy here. I am looking at using a programmable War Chip and with some help from friends will tackle the mount and piping at home. So what size injectors will I need? I was thinking around 450cc's but as I am a bit of a novice on injectors I would be interested to know if there is a donor 6 cyl car I can get them from? A mate has is using Holden injectors from the Supercharged Ecotec motor for his M20 turbo build any other options out there that I might find cheap. I will get them serviced of course.

What about a woman courier driver?