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Race car suggests he is a man, those stickers suggest he listens to Michael Buble while he grooms his vagina.

ah very nice - old school m88 motorsport engine .. any s-series engines done high kms?? the old girl finally ticked over 290,000 this morning and celebrated by flashing its interior lights and angel eyes for 15 minutes and refused to lock after I parked at work. shes calmed down now and business as per usual.

Epic, epic drama. Youf**kinglittlebeauties!

not quite daily driven (too thirsty ) but my e28 m535i with a 3.65L M88 engine has 527,000km that's equivalent to 1.37 times to the moon and back or 14 times to the Uk and back or 13 times around the earth

I once bought a bunch of those stupid white ppl stickers for my single mate's AMG. I stuck on an old lady and 14 cats on his rear window.

lol ... actual lol ... Nah mate the cars not going anywhere.. On a side note, when I met my wife and started dating, she was a little bit disappointed the fact I owned a BMW, she hated them. But then, slowly as the years went on .. she gets in another car brand (pick any) and hates it because they "dont drive like a BMW" Also, her idea of a fast car was a WRX STI or a RX-7 bat. I respectfully patted her on the head. When the e30 was finished took a few of her car hood heros on and munched them. So shes now educated and down with the m3 donk All her family think its quite funny (cool) her daily is a v8 now too. She drove my dads new 2015 volvo the other day, comments ... "lets stick to BMWs"....... My job here is done.

SJ (EUROHO) fitted the cross pipe for me on Saturday. There was a bit of a hiccup so, unfortunately, it'll need to come off and be straightened (those with sharp eyes will notice the driver's side tips are a bit low) but it has done the business sound-wise and performance doesn't seem hampered in any way. iPhone vid doesn't do it justice but you can hear a touch of exotic now the banks are mixing!

A shame. Although it was getting a bit stale. RIP Top Gear.

You need a very high testosterone level to want to keep banging an old fat women that doesn't wear makeup though. Just saying. I am all for honesty. Do I look fat in this? Yes. She will either dump you, or eat a lot less that night saving a lot of money at the restaurant.

I actually brought up this question up at a large table on the weekend (wedding) Concluded that: a) Car should look reasonably nice, be reasonably new and have a nice interior. b ) Motorbikes make women get a funny feeling inside. c) Unless you are well into a relationship, like a year or so, (a) goes out the door and is irrelevant if you are a confident reasonably good looking dude that dresses well and is fun. d) Red wine at weddings will always lead to interesting conversations, flirting, sexual assault allegations and uncomfortable confusion the next morning.

I have 215/45/17s on an 8" rim on my e36, and they are very slightly stretched. I would prefer to run 225s. I would imagine that 215s would sit nearly square on a 7 inch rim. Maybe this helps: http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp

On our old Altezza a 215/45 was the factory size on the OE 17x7" rims.

A gf with a solid interest in cars would be annoying as f**k.

there is an extremely well looked after E90 that has a $10,000 autosure warranty for that extra piece of mind you seem like you are after... heard the seller is a real cool person too edit link: www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-851267079

OP asks if his box is ok for tracking... Thread ends up with the answer to change the diff. OT much..

https://youtu.be/IQ8DHtR9P7w enjoy

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SMG-6-Speed-Gearbox-For-BMW-Z4-2-5-SSG-2004-2008-/221629937632?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item339a2c77e0 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/bmw-e90-3-series-06-318D-6-speed-manual-gearbox-to-suit-M47-engine-1069401052-/261677610511?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&fits=Car+Make%3ABMW&hash=item3ced33760f http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-E60-520D-MANAUL-6-SPEED-GEARBOX-2006-M47-/121584783695?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item1c4f04914f http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-320d-120d-520d-E46-E90-E87-E60-M47-6-speed-manual-gearbox-1069-401-059-/271789405043?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3f47e93373 buy afew in bulk they will last you for many race seasons

Ahahah was just waiting for that. Glad it was you Andy

i see what you did there

Gah! Just got home. Tried to get it to tick over by driving up and down my short driveway but got bored. Anyone else have a high kms m series car? Daily driven ftw

I too appreciate a woman who can drive stick.

No argument here. Different tyres work on different cars, I have never had many people agree with my opinions on tyres, well short of other guys who actually race etc.. and that is normally talk of semi slicks etc.. The RE002's were sh*t house on my daily 2011 Megane RS, as in they were removed and thrown away. They were so bad in the wet they actually confused the car's systems, they would have traction control and stability control freaking out where on other tyres it would not have intervened. The car is over steer bias though, a lot different to non M BMW's that are prone to understeer, its set up a lot different than most would expect, in terms of wet weather grip, the GY F1 AM2 was in another league, that is actually were the Good Year outshone other tyres at around that $450-500 mark the most... what they failed on was steering feel, they had soft side walls. Has anyone tried the Michelin Pilot Super Sports? They seem to be regarded as the best fast road tyre around the places I look on line, but I have never tried them. Still a big thumbs up for the RE050a from me, I have set on my RS new that are about to die, but I drove the 2015 Megane RS275 (sub 8 min Nurburgring basher) with them fitted on a track day a few weeks back and they were awesome, so good we could not get the car to loose control on the wet "emergency lane diversion" test, that is cones laid out with a water truck trowing water on the track, you swerve in at say 120kph, even drivers who hadn't done any previous track work didn't manage to loose the car or have the stability control intervene. Impressive.

on alloy threads do it by feel ... you can feel when youve tighten it enough. Never had a problem with a bolt backing off using this method, even on an engine environment. Beats stripped threads. Most factory torque settings are for brand new metal. Something to keep in mind. Also especially on alloy, thread surface deformation is a real issue if your bolting and unbolting a lot. If youre having issues getting a bolt to not seating itself you can always glue the bitch in with loc-tite. Its better than a busted thread. You can use the weak sauce loc-tite for this.

I think it always pays to apply a grain of skepticism to factory torque specs. Sometimes chasing that magical number can be a little dangerous. Be it old or previously damaged bolts, or grommets as you suggest that alters the situation. You tend to ignore the little sensations that let you know you're about to strip a thread when you have a torque spec to follow, and are waiting for the 'click'. I've damaged far more threads while tightening when using a torque wrench, than just playing it by ear with a ring and open end. Sometimes I wonder if you're best just with a basic understanding of the materials you're dealing with and the forces that the fastener is going to have to resist, then just playing it by feel. Anyway, good rescue!

Nice looking ride, haven't seen many in that colour! Watch out for that modification bug ! - would suggest getting a walnut blast done on the intakes before turning up the HP

http://store.garagistic.com/ocart/bmw-e30-parts/bmw-motor-swap/e30-m30-mounts

Took the vert for a little trip out to the beach, make the most of a sunny Sunday afternoon as summer draws to a close and I get ready to store her up for winter.

Intimidating? Girly Men.

Interesting. Being single, and allowed to browse around, a nice car does draw the attention, but then I have been told it's intimidating to have a female with a nicer car than the male... If I speak to you about a car and you give me a blank look, I'll talk to you in another life.

Sounds Sounds proper now! nice going.

Fitted my new UUC (3+ month delivery!) rear rotors today because they couldn't wait any longer. Mine were already below spec when I ordered the new ones in November so were pretty terrible (but still flat) when they came off today. Simple job if you have the correct tools (which include a rather uncommon 7mm hex bit - find one of those in your typical set!), took about 90 mins all up. Now I have near new rotors and pads on all 4 corners, braided lines are here and will go in soon alongside rebuilt OEM front calipers with brass sliders. Full flush with new fluid with the lines and I shouldn't have to think about brakes again for many moons. Edit: reverting damn forum's auto-formatting f*#@.

The Devil is in the detail. The pre FL headlamp brackets only allow 3 of the 4 bolts to secure the headlamps, only 2 were holding in one headlamp so I went and got some proper FL headlamp brackets with all new fasteners. The rear license plate LED's were just a tad bright so I bought brand-new incandescent items, along with a FL windscreen washer fluid filler neck.

Car wouldn't be a problem. Those God awful family stickers on the back would be a deal breaker though.

dont beleive everything you read in dog and lemon or on the internet. Here is a heads up.There is a risk with owning ANY car.If you get a BMW with a good service history and keep on top of its maintenance i suggest it wont be any more expensive to own than any other car that you maintain to the same standard.BMWs are fine cars and have a deserved reputation for being a fabulous drive.They are not without fault .But neither are MOST other cars. If you want a cheap reliable car with minimal risk stick to Toyotas and NIssans but they wont reward you with anything more than cheap day to day transport.

And now for a confession because my experience needs to count for something! Keen observers of this thread will have noticed that it took more than a few days to replace my valve cover gasket last week. Well that's because I have to admit I stripped two of the threads in the head for the valve cover bolts. Fab. I've had that cover on and off many times in the last year so I'm quite familiar with it and I always use a quality torque wrench and I always take extraordinary care (moreso after the trouble I had with the tensioner a year or so ago). Damn aluminium heads! I would have had a minor stroke had it not been for the knowledge that a friend had a very similar experience some time ago and, also carefully using a torque wrench, stripped about 6 of theirs (gulp) but survived and recovered. So a quick phone call and a short trip and I had a 6x1mm Helicoil thread repair kit in my hands and a great sense of anxiety in my gut. Whilst it's not a situation I'd wish on anyone it didn't end up being too much drama. Getting everything square when drilling the hole for the tap is the most daunting part because getting that bit wrong can be terminal. Since I did it by eye (no jig and lasers unfortunately) I'm 100% sure it's not all 100% straight (how could it be?) but I was still able to install and torque down the valve cover after fixing the two threads so it can't be far off. If you do this go really slow, take your time, be careful of aluminium going everywhere, clean up well, take your time. At least the Helicoils will be 30%+ stronger than the originals! Small mercies right? My hypothesis of why this happens is: The valve cover bolts have compressible rubber grommets installed from the factory. This rubber compresses with less than 8 Nm force which is the torque spec for those bolts. Therefore the BMW factory design implies that these grommets will compress a little when the bolt is tightened to 8 Nm. If this grommet can't compress all of that surplus torque will be applied to the threads. The bolts are steel, the head is aluminium. My theory is that with age and heat these grommets fatigue to the point where they can't compress as readily. As a result 8 Nm is fully transferred to the threads and overwhelms them. My guesses on how to avoid this: 1. Use new valve cover bolts every time you remove the valve cover ($$$) 2. Replace valve cover bolts every xxx km's so they always 'relatively' fresh ($) 3. Substitute 8 Nm spec with 7 Nm - this worked for me, see below. When I did everything up after the Helicoils I didn't want to strip any more threads! So I tightened everything to 6 Nm and left it for an hour to compress/settle (gasket and grommets) then I went back and tightened everything to 7 Nm. I've left it all there and monitored for the last week and no drama. I also chased all of the bolts with a die to clean those threads and hand wound a tap into each of the "good" sockets in the head to make sure they were also clean (some were not). Suffice to say I'm learning more about "fix-it engineering" than I ever wanted to know! Ready to drill...