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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/02/15 in all areas

  1. 3 points
  2. 2 points
  3. 2 points
  4. 2 points
    Finish date is in the hands of the boys at Quest fabrication.Doesn`t pay to rush the craftsmen.
  5. 2 points
    It's the Herald... nonsense written by a bunch of inexperienced, detached & starry eyed pen pushers!
  6. 2 points
    Work now begins on the tailend. Lovely plastic joining/moulding by Mark @ Plastic Repairs in Glenfield. Combination or a M3 bumper and a touring bumper. Pics of mockup and trial fitment.
  7. 2 points
    That's about 70% of the population though... I think they actually have NO IDEA what's going on around them, or what they are doing.
  8. 1 point
    So I bought this 330ci cheap and all in all its pretty good but it did some weird things. The mirrors would flip up into their parking setting whenever the car was turned off for more than an hour, the climate control would go berserk, hot then cold and mirrors would point in all directions when they felt like it. I did a battery test and lo and behold only 11.8 volts. (See this video if you're unfamiliar) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3AajTPsJyPI Batteries are expensive $285 via Repco and even more from Marshall. In the end I got one directly from Century batteries for $175. All issues fixed.
  9. 1 point
    Hey all, up for grabs is my bosses '72 auto 2002. http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-910560416.htm Let me know if you want to know any more about this or would like any detailed photos of specific bits. It's a project, but wouldn't take much! Cheers
  10. 1 point
    I think Justin should be forced to record his girls reaction when she sees this roll up on a truck. I dont feel for you my bro.
  11. 1 point
    Used penrite for my first oil change in the E30 then switched to Redline when i could get free shipping from amazon (they were running a promotion, yipee!) got 12quart for around $150. Noticed no difference in noise, fuel consumption, performance etc. Both seem to be high quality oils. Penrite is more readily available so i`d say go with that. I am no expert! Just your average joe really :~)
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    group hire a pro photograph people to our beloved BMW sell.
  14. 1 point
    they come loose and fall off while driving etc. i can bring them back if you want, but have to wait a while. no 14" and 15" are not the same, similarly you cannot use E34/E32 15" caps on E30 wheels. 500 is pretty reasonable, getting a bit hard to find now
  15. 1 point
    I agree about an M3. It is one of the most balanced performance cars in the world. I doubt that you would be able to build a better performance car for an M3 kind of money. Maybe straight line performance... but durability and an overall performance I doubt that. Just my 2c
  16. 1 point
    I switched to Penrite from Castrol about 3 or 4 years ago when Castrol didnt have a suitable oil for my V12 (E32/E34 use all sorts of specific oils for the hydraulic brakes etc) Ended up swapping engine oils too, and now use only Penrite for my own cars and the fleet at work I am responsible for. Im no scientist or particularly clued up on oil, and I'll use the Hiace as an example only because i do 40,000km a year, but i do know I used to burn up Castrol in the Hiace, low level light always came on about 8-9000km after oil change so needed another litre to get it across the line. Since switching to Penrite (same weight) i usually down to about half by the time 10,000km comes round. Take from that what you will, but i think thats pretty good, for an engine that has done 450,000km now, its always going to burn some!!
  17. 1 point
    Does anyone read the Herald??? Seriously?
  18. 1 point
    Photos for tyre kickers ))
  19. 1 point
    I'm much happier with the way my M54B25 is running on Penrite HPR5 than the last 2 or 3 changes on Castrol Edge 0W40. I know it's LL (something) certified, don't matter much to me as I'm changing oil and filter at 10k intervals. I've been a loyal Castrol user for more than 20 years, I've changed to Penrite synthetics on both my vehicles (HPR10 in the other), better value and improved performance (reduced noise, use) for street use over the main players. I'm not an oils engineer; I did a lot of reading and then decided ultimately to make a consumer decision and get on with it. If I was racing or nurturing a newly rebuilt engine, it might be different. If I were having my oil changed by my trusted independent, I'd be going with their recommendations (such as Glenn's recommendation, above). +1 on the bulk-buying front. I bought 20l Fuchs DexIII ATF to flush my Volvo trans, significant $ saving over buying 5l packs at retail. cheers, hope that helps. Olaf
  20. 1 point
    I am no gruru but did a lot of research on this topic. The "Full synthetic" lable does not mean it is 100% synthetic oil, well, striclly speaking, none of the oil on the market is 100% synthetic as they need to add additives. But, there are two kinds of "Full synthetic" oil out there: 1. Group III base oil with additives that have synthetic properties , 2. Group IV or Group IV base oil true synthetic oil The difference is quite big and easy to understand: When oils are new, they are almost the same, say 5w30, they all provide same protection layer at operation temperature. The difference comes in when you put miles on the oil, as BMWs are long drain , typically 250000km, (I change more often than that), oil gets heat, cooled and thinned. Now, when oil has , say around 10000km, they do not have same chemical property as when they were new, Group III will be thinned, called "shear", which does not provide good protection layers between metals, or , not as good as new protection layers. Lets say HPR 5 have Viscosity 15.0 at 100C, when new, but would be around 10.0 when drained out (NOTE: I do not know what the value will be at the end of the drain interval, it can only be found out if you are doing oil sample anylisys, this is just an assumption) Group IV or V oils, which are chemically engineered, all oil elements are the same, they don't require too much additives to get to the required viocity, often, it is the additives that get old, poision, and problematic. Which means, at the end of your drain interval, if you have group IV or V based oil, they still provide as good as new stated Viscosity. From Penrite website, if you look under their full synthetic range, namely racing and premium range, you will see they state that they are SHEAR FREE Now look at my oringinal post, the oil I posted there are real synthetics, not Group III blends, they are not easy to find, and there are not many of these as they are expensive to make, compare to blends. Hope it helps and hope we can find reasonable priced oil in NZ.
  21. 1 point
    Well, bugger me sideways, spoiler turned up this morning on the courier, no issues! I did get a bit worried when the tracker was showing it had been sent to Australia from Latvia., but there you go. A day under two weeks to get here, excellent. All looks to be in one piece, and is very well wrapped up, so will rip it all open tonight when I get home.
  22. 1 point
    Please tell us more Nick, you sound like an oil guru.
  23. 1 point
    In my experience cheap batteries are a false economy. Just replaced a Century battery that was in my wife's Impreza, it had failed after just 2 years (bad cells). Whereas the genuine BMW battery in my E30 is still going strong 6 years after it was installed.
  24. 1 point
    I have 7 to rego so there's some saving still don't care too much regardless enjoy my toys, you pay to play
  25. 1 point
    30 years old this year have given it a small birthday gift .... new springs and shocks fitted (kings front ,ebach rears ) koni adjustable shocks . e34 540i front and rear brakes 540i brake master and servo unit , also the brake bomb was swapped out. sits and rides better and can actually stop now
  26. 1 point
    Have a Size Small 55-56cm KBC Motorbike Helmet for sale too $70 has a couple minor scratches Comes with spare clear visor SOLD Chur Euroriffic
  27. 1 point
    gonna take sj's word on this one and use HPR5 next time for my M52B28
  28. 1 point
    engraving hint: use tape. rule your guidelines. carefully print your script on the tape, stick to the substrate. use slowest rotational speed on your engraver that you can, and try to maintain your hand at same angle to the substrate as you trace your words. I've found that it catches and wants to head in its own direction when I've leant the cutter head over. take your time. I've done some using an engraving cutter on my dremel with handpiece; with some patience you can get good results. peel tape off afterwards, boomshankah! HTH Olaf
  29. 1 point
    A photo of my car taken by cellphone
  30. 1 point
    Very true. Yet it still feels fast and slightly dangerous. Because I am on safari. In Mt Eden.
  31. 1 point
    Went to a Legit/split meet on Friday night. Snapped a couple of photos afterwards with some friends.
  32. 1 point
    Only when my right foot decides its the right time
  33. 1 point
    Man, what a project! Fantastic to watch this unfold in little ole NZ.
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