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BIG UPDATE! 23.07.16 Ok a lot has happened since I last updated, Will do my best to cover it all. 1:Had the rear trailing arms reinforcements welded in along with a few little jobs by SJ @ Apex Automotive Everything turned out well. The original plan was to get him to do the sub-frame reinforcements as well but due to unforeseen circumstances this did not work out. Pics of the trailing arms being welded. 2: As I am heading down to EuroHaus track day down in Taupo on august the 13th I needed/wanted to have my sub-frame reinforcements done by then as well. Not knowing when SJ was going to be able to do the sub-frame a friend of mine VERY kindly offed to do the welding for me which we have just finished tonight(23.07.16) Over all went really well. As pics will show we just put wet towels over the gas tank to stop any chance of blowing up myself along with my mates and my house. Worked out well only small problem was getting to the back side of the plates as the gas tank was still in but got there in the end. Rest of it was pretty straight forward just took out rear sub-frame and arms along with the back box , Rear seats and the carpet inside the car to stop any change of getting it on fire. Am VERY happy with the out come! 3 Had a small rocker cover leak and as i was taking the top off decided to repaint the cover in Heatproof black paint witches looks quite good! 4 Finally after waiting and debating for months whether to go for 18s 17s staggered or squared and so on found a set of wheels I am very happy with they are 17x8.5' ET30 all round.Running brand new RE003's Front 225/45/17 Rear 245/40/17 Overall very happy with fitment and looks. And already know Im going to love the RE003's as I have them on the e46. Think this bring us upto date with the car. Next on the To-do list is. LSD New clutch Put on the M3 Evo front brakes I have.

Yulian - I think you simply went to somewhere that doesn't offer the service you require. It is as simple as that. Had you gone to 'ABC123 Acme Car Polishers' looking for a 'Ultimate Ceramic Coating' they might offer you a 'Super-Duper Waxy-Shiny Hard-Coat' polish, and tell you ceramic isn't needed: they'd hope to sell the service they have available. That's business. That's all there is to it. OCD are not ripping you or anyone else off - they are offering a specific service at an appropriate price. It's just not the service you wanted. And now you're bad-mouthing a company whose customers are happy with their service, potentially meaning your friends won't benefit from something that could be suitable for them. Please don't do that.

Got a chance to drive the m3 after 2 months since its last one...which was only to the wof station and back. Was a good run out to middlemarch and back, much better and faster than taking the mondeo work wagon!

I won't lie, i kinda like the X1, but totally see what you mean. Seems that BMW want to dominate, if not, have a stake in every possible option for vehicles. I guess these things all cater to each type buyer, whether it be, the town run about, or something more lethal such as the M-Division, whatever floats your boat i guess.

whoa havent posted in here for ages! just hit 300kms in the m3. .. idle went bad, stalling out at 500rpm etc .. ICV flooded with carb clean helped but the real problem was after the intake manifold was taken off and a bunch of perished hoses in the factory oil catch can system I believe causing a vac leak. ICV was cleaned, all other hoses checked, and perished one replaced. ran much better, still misfiring, plugs came out and they were eroded away .. replaced with a freshly gapped set and it is running like new now. Also the throttle position sensor was shot and replaced. now running really well! work done by Subirex Automotive which did a great job. Comp test was done while the plugs were being replaced 185 190 180 195 190 190 psi not bad for 300,000kms, within 10% (<~7%) between cylinders and still fairly high (factory comp values are reputed differently by which source you use but around but not far off... ).

New addition to the HellBM family, BMW 1502 with some extras: 2litre M10 transplant,Alpina headers, cam and dual carbs etc

As per the title. Mainly intersted in the block, crank and Pistons. Thanks.

As we know there's a BMW to fit in every market sector these days, well nearly. I can't help but find some of these models do come across like coffee break products, designed and put into production quickly with a BMW roundel slapped on, but of course they sell by the dozen There's a few that make me cringe everytime I see them on the road. Of course this is subjective, but these BMWs don't really stack up for me, if anything they would suit being in a Mazda, Kia, Toyota, Hyundai range! For what they cost I can't help but to find they would be embarrassing models to drive, especially when you could pocket 1/2 the cost and buy something similar in practicality from a more modest manufacture and avoid trying to show off with the badge. 2 Series Active 5 Series GT X1 X3

I was hoping you would have had one Good point. The m90 was effectively an m88 with an m30 head on it. They were found in e12 m535i and ~1980 635csi. They rev faster than a standard m30 and can easily be stroked to 3.6L if I remember correctly.

M60 - V8 M70 - V12 M90 - V16?

I like where this is going , you may want to mention more about the age and type as a lot of people wont know what a m90 block is

All ive ever used is in BMW manuals is Royal Purple Syncromax, Redline D4 ATF and MTL. In your case you'd use D4 ATF and call it a day. Ive used MTL and D4 in my parents E46 318i, the D4 is smoother when cold but MTL shifts the best once warmed.

A "remote" effect would have me beaten i think .Well done.Perhaps a test somehow waterproofing the relays to see if it will run for a longer time?

Did you change the headlight oil yet???

Just chuck in some bananas and you will be sweetas bro

I would used to say E65 but even that's grown on me compared to the 2 series active, that is BMW cringe every time I see one. At least the E65 still comes with 6s 8s and a 12 even if it's a bit sh*t and RWD.

Just like most of the major German manufacturers, Mercedes, Audi etc, all having been pumping out a wide range of models for awhile. I guess when your products aren't as far ahead as they used to be you have to more toward quantity rather than quality.

Hi Getrag 220 5 speed manual box in my Z3 had the MTF- LT-2 label. I put in Redline D4 ATF which is a GL4 rated oil and don't have any problems. The research I did showed that it had the same viscosity at 40C and 100C as the original oil. Regards Muzz

thanks for your PM Richard, not really after another at the moment, have an M60 in the shed with no home for it as it is! Cheers Andy

Hello Julian. Firstly thank you for coming in to see myself and Christian today. It was a pleasure to meet you and I'm sorry we were unable to accomodate your needs at this point in time. Whilst we wouldn't normally engage in this, I would like to point out a few facts so that the other Bimmersport members can stay educated and hear a bit from us too. When you spoke to Christian you were wanting us to use your products and tell us the technique you would like us to use. While we respect all of our customers requests - what you were asking us to do takes all of the quality out of our control; which would negatively effect our business should you be unhappy with quality due to us not following our process. To break down the facts about a brand new car detail is as follows. Step 1) Full wash down of the exterior including wheels, wheel barrels, under guards plus full dry of the vehicle and clean and dry of the door jambs. One hour. Step 2) Decontamination. Yes, all new cars need decontamination. I have attached photos of a brand new M235i we detailed. You can see all of the Iron contamination reacting from transport. Disgusting I know that new cars come out of the factory like this, but at least we were there to fix it. Following up with a very light clay bar for thoroughness. One hour. Step 3) Preparation of surface. We mask all exterior plastics and trims and prepare the vehicle. Quarter hour. Step 4) Machine polish using dual action machines. We use four different size machines, Rupes 21ES, Rupes 15ES, Rupes Mini, Rupes Nano to achieve a perfect finish. All new cars we do, including Rolls Royces and other high end have buffer trails, sanding marks, swirls from the dealership and more. Given in your case on white they are hard to see but I 100% guarantee they are there. Machine polish whole car, single stage. Four hours. Step 5) Secondary wash down to remove any light dusting, residues from polishing process. Again, not always necessary but we pride ourselves on being thorough. Half hour. So far. 6 hours 45 minutes. Exterior Only. Of course this excludes any wax, sealants, tyre protectant or interior detailing which we always do as standard to ensure vehicles leave our studio in pristine condition. This process would be at a cost of $549 for a mid sized SUV including the interior. If you consider here labour, product cost, overheads such as power, water, full insurance for your vehicle and our premises and the such - and given if we add on the finals above we are looking at more like 8 hours - I think this is great value. How much does your mechanic charge? $100 per hour excluding materials? At a rate of more like $68 per before expenses for which which I know and consider as just as skilled as a mechanic then it's great value! If you would like some guidance about our quality I would speak to Jooles C, Martin U, Andy P, Kevin L, Amber E, Tristan J, Richard P, Peter F, Dan S, Ryan H, John M, Raewyn A, Ray R, Seth H, Sam F, Sam R, Nick A and no doubt a raft of other Bimmersport members I can't think of at this time. Again, sorry we could not help to apply your products to your car. As mentioned I wouldn't normally reply to threads like this but of course I take exception when the business Christian and I have built comes 'under fire'. We have never had a problem customer before and we are happy to help with any customer request as long as we don't sacrifice quality. In regards to becoming soon 'bankrupt' we are constantly booked up every single week for over the last 12 months including winter, at the prices we need to charge in order to survive. If we were to lower prices to what you consider fair for the work, I would say we would definitely go bankrupt like you say!

MTOY finally getting some work. I've never cut this car before (only performed a light polish 2 years ago), so I was genuinely keen to see the result. If anything, the paint has gained a bit more depth! 20160721_184822_HDR by Christian Taylor, on Flickr 20160721_185022_HDR by Christian Taylor, on Flickr The interior is looking a bit sad, still waiting for the replacement center console. 20160721_184850_HDR by Christian Taylor, on Flickr

That looks familiar! I'm hoping someone from the Bimmersport community will buy and continue to love it. If you have any questions, please PM me.

Sam from OCD here. $160 is a great price but I would be questioning the quality. In my eyes it all comes down to your expectation and budget. You might find that the level of quality you get for what you pay your mate is exactly what you are after. Theres a place in the market for every 'level' of cut and polishing and grooming. To give you an idea I can do a cut polish and wax in 5 hours and make a car look a lot better if I wanted to - but it's not my game. We recently corrected Martins E39 M5 (check project threads on bimmersport). It took approx 1 hour for initial wash down, 2 hours for clay barring and decontamination, 11 hours or so of cutting the paint, another 2 hours of refinement polishing and then probably another 2 hours for final wash down, sealant and wax. You wouldn't catch me spending almost 20 hours on a car and charging $160 . On top of that we use three different size machines to polish as many areas as possible, polishes from Germany, waxes from Korea etc etc... But in terms of cost our RRP for that service is $749 (including a full interior and exterior detailing). My advice would be to really have a good think about what your expectation is. Do you want to improve your car or do you want as close to a show car as possible? Also, if you do the show car route do you have the time, knowledge and resources to properly maintain that finish too? Sorry for the long post! Feel free to PM me if you have any more specific queries in regards to anything car care related