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I see some of you had over 90 degrees coolant temps, MSS54 knock control and direct correlation with your intake and coolant temps to retarding the ignition will explain a lot of the differences there.

Rear water plate on the back of the cylinder will be leaking. Your smoke will be the start of valve stem seals failing

A cheap M5 is like cheap Motorsport, an oxy-moron.

Hello, everyone! When I came from Germany last year, I bought an E39 540i straight away. I was lucky to find a New Zealand new one with low mileage and previously driven by an elderly woman. I love my bimmer and don't regret the buy. In my opinion, a lot of these ‘modern classic' cars come for a very fair price here in New Zealand. Even, if I needed to address a couple of issues, such as valve covers, brakes and many smaller items. I believe this is a great forum, and I'm looking forward to swapping ideas with you.

In the disassembly of MDS50 and MSS54/52 ECU code. The MSS50/52/54 ECUs all have a very advanced knock control system. It has a per cylinder hi and low flag system which allows the ECU to determine the onset of knock and prepare for it. The other variables in the ignition retard equation are IAT and Coolant temps. There is quite a bit of logic that goes into it which I'm not going to stick on a public forum but it is the reason a lot of you will see wild differences in power. The S5X engines run quite high compression ratios for a road engine on pump gas and with that comes a close to the edge ignition control system. Here is some dyno software I developed for it ... top right is the knock control system read out.

Pretty sure that was the L7 advertised on TM for a while. Not liking the addition of the M badges much..lol This little piece arrived yesterday so I can finally start getting the car back together again..

Just use the hammer method. Big adjustable spanner on the fan nut, and then sharpley hit the end with a hammer. Just make sure to hit the nut clockwise as it is reverse threaded.

Hybrid , where are you seeing that kind of info ?

Hi Guys I know its been 4 years but just in case someone else have the same issue. I have found the problem and fixed the issue, it is so strong that it can now blow you away, have to make sure sit belts are on before starting the AC :-) after so many times of pulling the blower motor out thinking may be the evaporator is blocked/dirty or something similar i thought i replace the blower motor just in case. I started looking online for a new motor when I realized the cable on my motor comes out from the wrong direction compared to a DIY i was watching on youtube after checking and taking in out again, it turned out the motor was put it the wrong way meaning it would turn the wrong way and blow up instead of blowing down through the evaporator. took it out, turned it 180 degree and put back together and now it works great. very strange but someone must have put it in the wrong way at some stage. the strange part is that from the history i got when i bought the car, it seem to always been serviced by BMW until i bought it. also there was nothing in the service history of anything done on the AC system Maybebe this can help someone with the same issue cheers

Fairly consistent results from the photo Ray posted to me. Between 180rwkw -200rwkw for stock M3 and 225rwkw for Ray's with airbox and exhaust. You will not see gains without changing the plumbing on this car period even if you max out on the knock control by turning it off completely. Ray's one is fairly impressive as that's CSL type power ... I think I've identified why also as that runs a fairly odd software version one I believe might be contributing to the power as this stock software isn't one used for very long on production cars and certainly not available within the dme software versions you see in ISTA.

I have looked at them in the US as a possible buy. But anything under $15K US is an expensive rescue. A few being advertised with "Funny sound from engine". Had it serviced just last year.

Is it iron block or alloy block? What size are the brakes? Does it come with the gold wheels or the silver ones? What tyre make/model/size/tread depth? What steering rack? Sorry for so many questions.

Yep, looks real good in that dash/console.

Not to far from me, from Essex myself. Yeah your telling me, prices in the UK are on the rise now, if I would have sold it before i come out I would have made a few £££

Thread hack........something for the e38 tragics......like me.

but where do the cassette tapes go? Surely you're going for the authentic 80's experience?!

Yeah its looks more like general neglect not general wear and tear to my eye Probably hasn't spend much on it and is looking to get rid of it before something costly fails.

After looking at that I don't think that is a cheap M5 at all.

Got around to fitting Freeview tuner module in the M3. Nice and straight forward install. (blue board in photo) more info on kit at www.pibus.info Reworking a couple of areas of my car stereo where in hindsight I should have done better.

Was recommended to go see the guys at Eurorec as they specialise in BMWs and are a Euro Nation club supporter, and I have bought parts for my old E36 from them previously. Had it scanned, was the ASC pump needing replacement. Sourced a used part from them and had it fitted. Sounds as though they cost an arm a leg at the dealer, the wheel speed sensors alone were quoted at about $260 each for genuine BMW from Jeff Gray. So all dealt with for now, would not have been wise just throw sensors at it (even cheap ebay ones), cheers for the replies guys.