Leaderboard

Knocking you probably wont be able to tell , pinking you can hear which is when your car is running hot. 3rd and 4th around 3-4.5k RPM is where knock happens on these engines. The amount of load is actually pretty high because of double vanos lower torque zones. Running some proper data logging (none of this OBDII crap) would reveal whats going on. The ones to look at is the IAT and coolant temps. You may/probably have a defective thermo stat or clutch fan thats now pants. I would start with the cooling system first and go from there. Happy to log your car if you need to with my software which is the only one in the world doing both native telemetry and the knock control system. BMW software doesn't even poll the ECU for knock values. I think it was put into it for motorsport and factory purposes.

I wouldn't recommend using an adjustable crescent spanner for anything. But yes, get a proper (cheap) 32mm spanner and rubber mallet.

Up for auction - tomorrow morning, 1st September, is a 1995 Alpina B12 5.7 with manual gearbox, one of only 25 manuals ever built. The spiel: " Extremely Rare one of 25 manual 5.7 Litre Alpina B12 5.7. 1995 reg with just 48k kms. 57 made in total ,32 shifttronic autos and 25 manualsThe B12 5.7 Coupe enhanced the 380PS (375hp) 5.6-liter V12 850CSi with a slightly larger displacement 5.7-liter V12 featuring a number of upgrades such as the reprogrammed ECUs and modified intakes to develop 416PS (410hp) and 570Nm for a 0-100km/h (62mph) sprint in 5.8 seconds and a top speed of 300km/h (186mph). Not to be confused with the earlier B12 which was based on the 850 ci auto. this B12 5.7 was based on the 5.6 liter 850 CSi which is already a rare car as it is so finding an Alpina is even harder so expect this to reach a hefty price at auction on Thurday Morning the 1st of September." I'd buy it, but it's left hand drive.

Things are starting to snowball, all the fabrication is being completed (only a couple of small bits once motor is in) Engine bay is prepped and ready to go, removable rad support all riv nutted into place, holes for cables and hoses drilled, all brake lines shaped and bent ready to go. Just needs a final sand and will be time to put some paint down. Have also purchased some other parts I have been chasing for the last 12 months am pretty stoked to get my hands on. Will add to the style of the wheels, next update should be a big one.

Ive always drained it with new filter etc, given it a drive and drained and replaced the fluid again. Having a torque converter drain like my benz would be nice or flushing equipment. I bought a 20L container of the correct Fuchs ATF for a few hundred which was enough for 2x changes on 2x BMW V8's.

Here are my 'secrets' 2002, 145km (NZ) 'CSL' software (HellBM+Tom) Simota panel filter (lol) Gull 98 Last oil service - Dec 15 Red line it every day Amber corners (+10hp)

Latest mods: E9x M3 rear sway bay, floating rotors new pads and a set of F30 Style 400M wheels. M3 Diff,1/2 shafts and swaybar takes out most of the stock twitchiness. Stock 335 rear swaybar vs E9x swaybar

Im not happy with the registration label placement but otherwise looks immaculate!

I have looked at them in the US as a possible buy. But anything under $15K US is an expensive rescue. A few being advertised with "Funny sound from engine". Had it serviced just last year.

the proliferation of plant pots are your spouses subtle response to your proliferation of 5 series in the driveway!

A cheap M5 is like cheap Motorsport, an oxy-moron.

* Set of 4 Genuine BBS RS Center Caps * Includes Waffle Plate, Hex Nut, Retaining Rings and Logo Cap. * Suit 16" BBS RS Models - Large Diameter * $400