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Had a little fun in the paddock on Friday night with an E36 sedan, ran into a small cooling problem (surprise surprise) and slightly overheated it. Think I need to replace the fan belt then should be good to go a bit longer. Or can anyone else suggest what else could have caused the temp gauge to rise so high?

I have a second hand one in the garage, just to make sure I never need one!

A few pics of the latest addition for those that are interested. Carjam tells me it's done around 137k, was originally NZ New and has had a few owners over the years. I picked it up off a guy after it had been sitting in his shed for 10 years or so, it came with another parts car that may or may not be too far gone to restore, but we will see. I haven't confirmed numbers yet but believed to be the matching numbers original motor. Body is straight with one small dent in the front right guard, and one small patch of rust in the boot - not a hard fix. The rest is just surface rust. Drives seat definitely need recovered but everything else appears in good condition. It has no brakes or exhaust as yet, again not hard to sort these out. And will need tyres, some lights replaced etc. But all in all hoping this won't take long to sort out and be another classic to be enjoyed on the weekends. Now just need to build my f$%#*@g workshop to store all these toys in hahaha

i only skim read through the above posts but I think you are going in the wrong direction. 17x8 et35 is not okay for e92 335i my personal aim for fitment would be something along the lines of: 18x8.5 et30 with 235 40 18 18x9.5 et25 with 265 35 18 you could even go slightly more aggessive with the offsets but staying around these numbers would give you a nice easy fit without guardwork and inner tyre well clearance. dont bother with size calculator that tells you X mm's more in more out nonsesnse because you will be comparing it to factory spec which is pretty bad baseline anyway and not a good indication of where you want to be.

Haha, sound plan. If you ever do have an M5 ABS failure it's usually the pump. If it can't be refurbished then you can get a pump unit from another BMW and attach it to your M5 controller. Mine came from a E9x 323i. Saved me 4 grand. The ABS pump in my old 130i also failed at about 60k km and we had just the pump repaired as the unit was $3000.

Hold it on the limiter

Yeah they leak everywhere, not uncommon for leaks to go under windscreen either

How much for the 330ci badge ?

Seriously I cant see how a 235 is anywhere near enough tyre for a 335i, sure stick with 17's but at least look for a 8.5 or 9 inch wide wheel so you can fit standard 255s or 265's back there. The money you will pay for a soft tyre that has grip will be more than a good 17 inch 255. BMW never ran a square setup on any of the high HP e90's and this was for good reason it will turn into a pig. If you leave the electronics on all that will happen is your dash will light up and you will go nowhere, if you turn the stability control off you will go sideways or become a one tyre fryer. if you give it a tune and lets be honest the 335i is just so easy to get extra HP and torque from, it gets even worse. Leave your current setup on and buy and LSD, then you will see why the e90M3 handles so well.

On holiday. Here for the weekend and then onto the UK for goodwood FOS.

Unfortunately, the only thing appropriate, an illuminated C&B, is not available.

Well about time for another update. First is conceeding that i need some more time to get the E30 back on the road, and with the missus coming back from Florida and needing her car back, this post will go on a quick E38 tangent before coming back to the E30. i decided to go for the 740iL i posted above. I probably would have looked about for another car, but my friends 540i manual that i mentioned above (and in pics below) is starting to get rattly timing chains. he is a bit tighter than me, so instead of fixing what he has its more cost effieicent for him to throw a good motor at it, so thats probably what will happen to this 7 in a few months. By and large, it actually has been looked after well, with a very large stack of reciepts, and underneath there is no rust as it has been rust proofed regularly. only mod this car will get is at least people will know its a crusty old 7 now. and another Petrol station pic, the novelty still hasnt worn off quite how cheap petrol is here, despite Ontarian's thinking its expencive now. only thing i actually had to do to the 740iL to make it good was i needed to replace the rubber bushing that held the throttle cable to the brace bracket, as the one on it had turned into plastic from heat and 24 years, and was holding the throttle at about 2k rpm. and also reset the traction control and SRS system from a low voltage fault from the past. Right. Back to the E30. Went to install the subframe back in, and the damn thing wouldnt line up. as it turned out, because of the rusty brace brackets mentioned in previous post, the old subframe bush had cracked and left some of it behind. Sort of hard to explain unless you are familiar with the E30, but the top aluminum piece in the photos was basically cracked off and left behind inside the chassis. I knocked the bolt out, it is splined, and enters into the body from under the rear seat on all E30s (except cabby IIRC). i then drilled it out with an appropriate sized drill bit, 25mm from memory. bit of a hassle, but eventually got sorted, and installed the subframe into place, connecting up drive shaft, brake lines, sway bar, exhaust etc, and for now, leave the blown right shock in place, and have not dealt with the rusty spring seat either. will come back to those things. the week prior, a friend from New Zealand came over for a week, before going to the US and then coming back for last week. And in thier case was a few of gods owns finest, for me to enjoy. Cool so finally getting somewhere with this car right !! Wrong. Go back to that previous shot showing the brake caliper, and see if you notice anything different about it. In all the time working around it, i didnt even notice. yup the bleed screw. wtf. someone has replaced it with an actual bolt at some point, and not just any bolt, but gone through the hassle of boring out and tapping a new hole with a larger thread. you can imagine the frustration when i went to bleed up the brakes. Ill be honest. i did actually try and make do with what i had, but just wasnt going to happen. So of course, need to get a new caliper. Silver lining was i managed to find a guy that was clearing out his moms place, managed to pick up a pair of calipers, and also spotted a pair of used Bilstein shocks in the garage. the lot, mine for $80 so cant complain at that. i didnt take any pic of bleeding process as i had a few mates around to help me, but here is a pic of the rear subframe finally all in properly. Ill need to come back to sorting that spring seat, and also still to extract the rusty bolts from those brackets so i can install them with new bolts, but yeah. Finally can drop the rear, and jack the front back up, and get to that steering linkage. managed to pull that out, and yeah nah its not for me. one orientation is completely siezed up. the other orientation has the play i noticed. so only one of 4 caps is actually doing what its supposed to. I couldnt see any retainer circlips on the inside or outside, so not totally sure how it works. almost looks like they are inserted and then the aluminimum itself is scored to hold them in, as a one use solution. unfortuantely, the part is NLA from BMW, and try as i might, i cannot find anywhere in Europe or New Zealand, i have hunted high and low. it is specific to right hand drive facelift non power steering, so a needle in a hay stack. yes i did consider installing power steering, and really, i probably should. but anyhow, i dropped it off to be rebuilt today. Only other thing to add is my neighbour has cool friends: just cant get a break with this damn car. and summer is going to be mostly over by the time its sorted. WAYYYY more work than i ever guessed, and if i had known, would never had brought it. But it was brought with my usual "she'll be right" attitude, and ive got it now, so might as well keep going!

Day 355: One month later, they're finally on the car! They look even better than I originally thought. Stellar! Massive thank you to the guys at wheelfixit, and OCD for making these wheels look a million bucks! I'm kinda thinking about getting some Ti bolts thrown on to finish the look. Still deciding though as the opinion on them seem rather mixed. the OE wheels will be retired for now. Might make a good set of track wheels in the future!

@M3AN was gonna put another post up about spotting yet another E3 on a trailer behind a Landcruiser..... and how it was the same Landcruiser lol. But thought I'd just show you a couple of pics for now, picked the good one up tonight. Pics taken on my phone in the dark, so will post better ones in the daylight when I can. Oh and before anyone says anything, that tie-down over the front is just to hold the bonnet shut, don't freak and think I towed the car with just that on it ???

Hi, how much would the full kit roughly cost for conversion so I can budget for it and please do keep my details if you get another. I am in Ardmore, been to your place before for the burnt 135i wheels, thanks

I was in the South Island on the TranzAlpine and then driving a Holden Acadia SUV (yuck) back. Wish I could have taken my Beemer