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Well so drove back from Auckland to Wellington yesterday, very impressed with the car so far, have already done an Oil Service & ordered parts, that it needs I did the whole trip, 714 kilometres on one tank of fuel, averaged 8.9 litres per 100 k & according to the OBC, still had a range of 114 kilometres to go, pretty good I think anyway!!

Given the circumstances, and the fact it’s free stuff from an all round genuine Bimmersporter, pics are not required for this post. Thanks, Admin.

Spoke with the owner and she is happy for me to share. Cluster actually in miles, so it has 69,000 miles which lead me to do some further digging. Vehicle was delivered to a dealer in the UK before somehow getting to Japan and then coming here in 2000. Vehicle has done very few kms since being here, she down say why her husband didn't drive it but liked it and wanted to keep it. Vehicle has some light scratches from being in the garage which she may look at getting sorted but she's in no rush to sell and happy to wait for the right buyer

Trick for young players... Bought a leather drivers seat with the correct dual stage type yellow harness plug. Fitted the seat and all was well until the airbag light came on for this.. Reset the code but it kept coming back. Turns out that the seat buckle sensor from the leather seat has 3 wires vs the original seat having 2. I believe this was a change from when going from MRS3 to MRS4 (airbag module) which was installed in to e39’s from Feb 01’ onwards. So plan of attack is to fit the entire seat wiring harness and seatbelt stalk/pre-tensioner unit from original seat in to leather seat..

Centric piston, 1 piece ali (made in Canada aye) The centric dust covers are grey silicon Vs OEM black nitrile, which is also promising.

Gotcha now ?. Cheater trick that's a little brutal to remove the flanges. Puller should go over the flange and onto the end of the axle, if it doesn't fit plan B is just a large slide hammer onto the flange. If the puller fits, it makes life easier. Put as much tension on it as you can, then use your butane torch to heat just the flange. Use a CO2 fire extinguisher on the axle to help cool it real quick while the flange is hot. Expansion of the flange and contraction of the axle, and the shock of cooling the axle quickly, should help break it free ?. The other trick would be to try concentrated heat on the flange itself, like an arc welder. Run a bead around the flange (with pressure on it), the concentrated heat may be enough to expand just the flange without enough heat penetrating the axle. It's brutal but I've done the heat/extinguisher trick before to other parts with success.

Ive used my Koken 3\8" E12 and bar on every BMW ive owned (and a few Mercedes) without issue, if you need more power then you can slip a jack handle, pipe etc on the bar. It can take a little wiggling to move the socket past the axle boot (worse at lower positions obviously) but i guarantee it will work. What stopping you from pushing back in the axle and putting so you can reattach the puller. Ive never used a butane torch so maybe they aren't quite as effective as LPG but it can take awhile when using low temp torches. Heat + slide hammer with a towel or puller is what ive always used to pull hubs but im not sure how you planned to remove the hubs even if you got the rotor off.

No idea what it's worth but that 'cockpit' is to die for, f**k touchscreens, give me banks of buttons and dials.

I'm assuming that's what he means... in which case, here's my trick, others may know other ways. Short extension (3" or so), and attack the 3 bolts on either side at the top. I can usually undo 4 bolts aside that way, then spin the diff so the remaining bolts are at the top and go again. Then, if the spline on the axle is free and not seized to the hub, the whole axle will pull through the centre of the bearing, job done.

I don't really understand your description but the half shaft is free on the wheel hub spline now? When you saying inner bolts are you referring to the torx diff output flange torx bolts?

What’s there to elaborate on? If you drive the car every day, then use Gull 98. If you don’t, and I don’t, then use Gull 98 at your peril. The ethanol coagulates and causes grief to engine components and parts.

Hmmmm so I've just heard of an E34 540i M-Sport here in Invercargill....... think he's gonna want way too much for that. Any news on the Touring yet @BM WORLD?

Use a backing plate and lug bolts and it will come out

Bolted to a M5X motor the diesel ZF will be on a 15 degree angle.Can be used with a custom crossmember and shifter linkage.

Ok update, found the oil leak, hoping this helps some one else in the future. This is funny So when the CCV was leaking, the oil was going through the intake, leaking through the seals and trailing down the head, creating puddles and then overflowing past the head gasket onto the block, i could see the oil dripping sort of on the bottom of the intake flange. To confirm - Both the original OEM CCV was starting to fail and the new non OEM CCV also started to fail 3rd time lucky - after taking it for a 20km drive after installing the new OEM CCV, oil was depositing in the exact same places, in the exact same way, and made me go? Did I just blow another CCV, maybe, but unlikely. It was atleast 50ml of oil, just from that short drive, and i didn't think it was possible to have all of that just coming from a CCV, unless it was sucking it up from the sump. I thought, it couldnt be the rocker cover gasket, as that was just done recently before i purchased it, but took off the covers anyway just to have a better look. So i saw oil puddled in the rocker cover, but it was above the gasket, so i had no idea how it could have got there, but it atleast gave me another clue Enter the Oil Pressure Switch, I noticed, oil was oozing out the plug where the connector meets, and that oil was pumping through the wiring heat shield, and then running all along over the rocker cover, which then waterfalls down the intake, head, and block. The loom had basically become an oil line. So to anyone else going on a mad hunt for the source of oil leaks, take the connector off the oil pressure swtich, see if thats the culprit first. To think i was just about to burn this car to the ground from all the frustration

Will bolt up ok and work if you stand the motor up by 15 degrees. great for turbo applications.

So team I have the definitive answer from a very capable technician who I know well and know I can trust. Yes if the car is driven daily. No if it is not. Thanks for all your input.

Front end suspension overhaul all done. Drives alot better and not too crashy with the lowering springs. I lowered the rear using inpa to tune the air bag heights. Started off reading around 615mm (measured from bottom of rim lip to wheel arch) and ended up at around 585mm. M sport rear suspension with 18” wheels is 589mm stock. Fitted the staggered M Pars and got a much needed wheel alignment. Before : After :

Should hopefully have it all installed over the next day or so and finally be able to fit the M-pars.

you'd want the *last* 7 numerals for vin decoder.

I have a pre Evo Avus blue. And it's the first one I have come across.

Why would you paint over a sweet cour like techno violet with plain old silver?