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Got up early this morning to tackle the Highway 22 run from the BMW Club mid year Vilegrads lunch and fortunately, this time the car didn’t pop a clutch cylinder - Car felt really good and didn't miss a beat - great having my front sway bar back working and I am very happy with the Yoko AD08Rs. Nice weather, great roads, beautiful scenery and zero traffic for a good 1.5 Hours of spirited backroad driving - good times indeed!

Heart is still racing after nearly getting gently touched by some old bird in a Skyline. I was waiting outside the local supermarket and noticed a really long queue of traffic behind a old r33 four door that was limping up the road with granny peering out from behind the wheel. Next minute she aims for the park in front of me and just starts the world's slowest turn into the spot which was directly through the front quarter of the M5, while the parking sensors started to go I rapidly grabbed reverse and left some black lines to get out of her way as she continued on and mounted the kerb. FFS! Had I been a minute longer in the shop this would be a different headline about ancient hag seen flying through air into path of oncoming traffic, local man praised as hero for removing menace from the road.

@Jacko those rotiform ZMO's are a cast monoblock wheel so its "alright" nothing like true forged wheels but they are still a reputable brand that has built up a decent following and dont think there will be any issues

Poor mans 'bodykit'?

One expensive sewing machine. 22k doesn't get you the front lip option either.

Hi all, I’ve looked all over the web to find a way to remove the metal sunroof on my e39. There’s a lot of articles showing how to remove glass sunroof but nothing (that I could find) on metal sunroofs. I followed much of the glass removal thinking it would be the same but the screws holding the rear sunroof is not present on the metal sunroof like it is on the glass and the metal sunroof seems to be locked in to the mechanism some how. I’m trying to replace my headliner and instructions are limited for the metal sunroof; it doesn’t appear to be the same for the metal sunroof like it is for the glass. it doesn’t look any different after the sunroof comes off, but my struggle seems to be the starting point with the metal sunroof removal. any help would be appreciated. Thanks

Massive Thanks to @Eagle who gave me a hand this weekend to diagnose the clicking from the the front end. removal of the lower control arm showed a broken sleeve in the steering knuckle. With a piece missing from the bottom of the sleeve and the rest of the bottom of the sleeve falling out onto the driveway it was obvious to see where the noise was coming from. So am now looking for a good condition steering knuckle (wheel carrier) as I don’t want to muck around with re-sleeving.

The old sub is certainly still very capable even these days and runs neodymium magnets, which makes it lighter that triple stacked subs (12kg verse 20kg plus ) Roughly has the surface area of a 13 inch sub. Has a massive 3.75 inch cone travel ( on a ported box ) and with 1000 rms can lay down mid to high 130 dbs. It can move some serious air. I’m running it in a sealed box of 1 cubic foot which is more sound quality aligned rather the running a ported enclosure . To help with bottom end below 45 hz also running a passive radiator which is a speaker without a motor. This helps with the bottom end and the F3 -3db point becomes 23hz rather than in the 30s. Gives a nice flat response on the low end. Needed to make some minor adjustments to the enclosure. Adding 6mm to the bottom as the sun will sit against the backseat. By doing so the top will sit high enough to be against the boot cross member. In addition looking to anchor the sub to the boot tie downs. With the F80 seat backs being a basic frame Want to ensure that the subbox can’t break through the back set in an accident situation. Also used a router and opened up the sides of the enclosure to vent the bass when up against the back seats. Need to find some speaker carpet to match the f80 boot or some other wrap

Not stoked with how the glass layers went but it'll be workable and functionally good ... the trick now will be getting plenty of epoxy filler on and sanding back to a reasonable shape before the carbon goes over the top. Need some sort of oven or heating arrangement to cure things faster and also post-cure the finished product which is a good idea according to the helpful man at NZ Fibreglass Supplies. On a side note, the same nice man at the shop has just made a mold of an E46 (to confirm) carbon roof ... they made the first part off it and it looks super swanky !! He is going to give me a call when they make another ... super interesting !!

Stink ☹️ Would argue that it’s an OEM part and available via dealer. Otherwise guessing Tuner Motorsport or ECS tuning for replacements.

quietly take them home. they're excellent as insulation when you're working on your car, particularly in winter.

The good old days 😁

Hahaha, anything on the cards at the moment if I can't source a nice N47D20. I've always been loyal to the M52... 🤔 Kidding 👀

Car is back in the garage and up on stands again so I can finally get the exhaust done. Got it complete and back on the car but not mounted. Sounds SO much better, only ran it for 30 seconds before rushing out the door. Will get a few more other bits ticked off (big ones are sway bar template fabrication and tracking some leaky oil fittings) while its up on the stands still before I can FINALLY take it on a little outing and get above 3000 rpm !!!! Have not even had the oil up to temp properly yet, takes ages with the dry sump system.

And here is the money shot video folks ... no exhaust and a F1 'idle' to sort but no fundamental problems !! 2 years on stands and we are super close to being back on the road. I can almost taste the fossil fueled fun 😆

Hi Allan, Dealers are on backorder too .