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Quickjack doesnt take up that much space, you can even buy hangers to hang the frames standing up against a wall now. I have my pump and hoses coiled up on an old rolling seat that tucks away under my work bench when not in use. Ill use my jack and stands if i only need one end of the car lifted, IF the jacking points are easily accessible. Anything where i need the car clear off the ground, particularly if you need it level (like gearbox oil changes), or if the jacking points sucks to access (low car life usually) ill use my quickjacks. I've had all sorts on mine. Everything from my Classic Mini, to my Leaf on the weekend. I rate them highly for garages that dont have the space for a proper lift.

Plinth only needed for the front - the rear plate recess is nice and flat. I personally think the black small plates are a bit 'scene' (although YMMV and apparently they are hard for the fixed speed cameras to see!) and they don't have plate surrounds available due to the small size. Europlates + plate surround is the cleanest option for me.

Hi Vass Thanks for your most helpful comment, your a waste of good oxygen.....

Later type with msport wheel. p\n 32341162111

RDS has lots of stuff. One part is the station identifier, so the receiver can determine the various frequencies are the same station. Therefore it’s able to maintain the same station as you drive to different areas with different frequencies of that same station. if it is set to 810, the same stations with different frequencies will show in the stations list, but it will not switch automatically. when 810 and 807 are removed the stations are listed once (rather than multiple of the same with different freqs), and will automatically change to the strongest signal strength frequency. (it is possible to FDL code the options on/off.)

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No need to get so butthurt over an innocuous comment there, dad. Once you sober up you might realize it was actually a solid recommendation. From personal experience with a few N42/N46's, they're barely worth the effort of DIY upkeep, and never worth it if you're paying a professional to do it for you. Unless making financial mistakes is your favorite hobby? On top of the numerous, well documented issues plaguing the horrid 4-pot engines, the 120i's, despite being utterly gutless, also somehow like to chew though differentials like they're Weet-Bix. There's really no lesson to be learnt from being the 1,000th person to step on that rake. People generally get into BMW's for the perceived prestige of owning a luxury brand, or for the performance aspect. The 120i is not a luxury car whilst offering the performance of a 90's Corolla. Literally the worst of both worlds. You get to swallow the premium maintenance costs whilst not getting a taste of any upsides. The fatherly thing here would be to urge her to sell the damn thing before it inevitably shits the bed on her, and get something with a proper engine. An electric scooter for example. But seeing as you did nothing to prevent her from getting one in the first place, I'm guessing she's not the favorite child anyway?

Selling Feature Installer Codes for DIY User Feature Installer is a professional application for Coding through the Cloud system for BMW/Mini cars with a program design that is easy to use and a suite of functions for BMW NBT/EVO4/EVO5&6 head units to generate USB loaded BIN files or Generate Codes to enable functions such as CarPlay, Video In Motion,Region Change as well as unlocking limitations in the system of BMW and Mini Headunits and a lot more for advanced user.The tool is also designed to provide better support for DIY Activation.If you need feature codes please contact me. Selling cheap price for Bimmersport Members Feature Installer Support: -FSC Retrofit Packs(NBT,NBTEvo,EntryNav) -Maps Activation Code(NBT,NBTId4,Route) -Region Change(NBT,NBTEvo) -CarPlay Full Screen/Split Screen -Install BlackScreen / Region Unlock -Enable VO Coding Fix -Enable VIM – Video in Motion -Virginize EVO – Clear V850 -EVO and EntryNav2 Remove Component Protection -Carplay connect fix for X/Y versions -ID4 to ID6 FSC Pack -Open/Close SSH -Clear sweet and many more All you need is a windows laptop,enet cable and good internet connection.I will provide to you the download link for Feature Installer App.Other jobs requires Esys or Launcher to complete. You must know what you’re doing and what to do with the files.All further support will have to be paid if you will run in some problem that are not related. You will receive a different Feature Installer code for every option that you select.Feature Code is tied to your car’s VIN. I offer no warranty, liability, responsibility or offer compensation should anything go wrong.If you don't know how this things works or what it will do, STOP!!!So it is you to decide if you want to take a risk.

Just had mine out. It is doable but I wouldn't want to do it on the ground. Driveshaft out would give you more room too.

EGR's are nasty things. I recently purchased a 123d and when I pulled the intake manifold, it was choked up by 50%. While I was in there, I blanked the EGR at both ends so it was sealed off even though it had been turned off in a tune. I suggest you get it turned off and a stage one tune done at the same time. Hit up @promo, he is your best bet in Wellington.

Makes sense. I’ll trust bolts over tape, but can see why tape’s a good route for some.

Not a wagon but this just popped up on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/share/xLFtbdhe5jiRgni7/?mibextid=kL3p88

I have found these guys pretty good K&N drop in filter at reasonable prices https://nzairfilter.co.nz/

Have a look at Spareto. Main dealer sometimes have OEM at reasonable prices so worth checking

I'd take the 120 straight to Pick-A-Part

I've had a bit of a saga with the battery on my BMW star key recently. It all starts during the export from the UK to NZ back in 2018. The shipping firm lost my original e36 style key so as I was en route to NZ via Singapore when they told me so I could not get them the spare key, they had to pack the car in the container using those rollers they use for expensive motors. Fancy. Anyhoo, the key the shippers lost is the e36 style that is really easy to replace the battery on, as shown here: The shipping company contacted BMW UK who issued a replacement key, programmed it to the car and did all the donkey work. All good I thought. What I did not know of course, was they had replaced the e36 key with the newer star key, or e46 / e39 key. Not to worry I thought, it is a bit flasher after all, and it works, who cares. Issue is of course, the key has recently stopped reliably opening the car. I was not using the car very much so I figured the key battery was being discharged and not charging enough while driving. After driving for a ways, I would have to be very close to the car, hold the key to my head and hope for the best. Still worked on start up and for driving though. But I thought this is not sustainable so I asked the internet. First I tried this geezer in a shell suit. He was on the money: It actually worked...........for a week. So then I tried this German chap: https://youtu.be/0kjGAUTb3Wg?si=twnlMTVnDmhvBHe9 This worked too, for a night. Oh dear I thought, what about recharging it using a tooth brush charger: That sort of worked, then didn't, at all. Battery was burnt out I think. But I thought, well I can cut it open and replace the rechargable battery or I can go the local stealers and buy a new key. I was all set for sourcing the new rechargable battery when I stumbled across this guy in the US: Note how the battery is just regular long life. Hmmmmmmm I thought. What are the chances. Sure enough, after a bit of a go around on the key with a blade and a hacksaw, I opened the key to find a non rechargeable. Thanks BMW. So $2 worth of battery later, I have a functioning key, no need to program again. Bonus. They key looks ok super glued back together, not quite so flash as before I attacked it with a hacksaw, but beats a trip to the stealers for a new key IMHO. Anyway, thought it might be useful to post for others who experience battery problems with the star key. Thinking about it, whoever at BMW in the late 90s or early 2000s who thought it would be good to go from a screw release unit to a sealed unit, well danke, dummkopfs.

Car came with 2 sets of wheels, some genuine 16" bbs rs's (which have been sold) and the original 15" basket weaves that I think fit the car perfectly. Only other wheel I would look at are the 16' alpinas but think they are more suited to the mtech 2. The wheels were in pretty rough shape, needing to be stripped back to metal and lips skimmed down and repainted. Powerstrip Industries in Onehunga did a great job at chemically stripping the wheels (for only $65 per wheel) and had the lips cleaned up by Alloy Wheel Repair in Grey Lynn. I painted the wheels myself and they came out better than I could have hoped. I've painted things before but not wheels... let alone basket-weaves. I primed and did 3 coats of base colour and a couple of heavy clear coats. I used VHT wheel paint (i think aluminium colour) and i'm pretty happy with the result. Maybe not quite as bright as original but I haven't compared side by side to a set of originals. Clear coat had plenty of time to cure as I was doing the whole front end servicing of the car at the same time so didn't see any road use for a month or so. Have since bought a 5th matching 15" basketweave that will get the same treatment and used as the spare wheel (as the car didn't come with one)