*Glenn*

I have some L/H drive ones... Silver I think...I'd have to get them out and have a look

It would also be prudent to remove the manifold and change the oil separator valve as well if it hasn't been recently done. The crankcase could be over pressurising if it, and the breather hoses are clogged up......... AND..... while the manifold is off, change the crank speed sensor as well.... preventative maintenance

I very much doubt the oil change will effect the torque converter issue. The symptoms indicate it is. Does it stop if you flick it into tiptronic ?

If it's an N42 or N46 replace the brake vacuum pump as well as the booster and brake master cylinder. The oil will damage the booster and master cylinder seals

You working on a 4 cylinder E90 Troy ?

I feel that a lot of previous posts have caused Dane to make poor decisions because he felt it was coming from professionals that are responsible (legally) and have the knowledge to give the right advice.

If anyone is interested I can do a new one for you at your request

Yes he has...he's not diagnosed the problem first before dismantling components as I suggested. 90% of a repair is diagnosing the actual fault first

I cannot believe how this thread has progressed from changing an oil filter & engine oil > to a noise > not diagnosed properly > to engine damage that would not have been caused by Danes oil choice. The engine has now been dismantled to a point where it is now no longer able to have the fault diagnosed correctly . I feel sorry for Danes position and I really feel he's been lead down a path that was unnecessary on this forum . He could of used SAE30 and it would not have caused damage in a short period of time and quite a few of the race guys are using 10w40 Full Zinc in the M3 Race engines .

I wish you all the best with your repair endeavours

Looks like I might have been right... maybe... the only reason for the damage on the front exhaust journal & camshaft bearing surfaces would be too much loading by the chain tensioner not being set correctly, assembly issues or oil supply issues. Dane... the camshaft bearing tray needs to be line bored to suit the camshaft journals which is probably going to cost more than buying second hand parts

I hope your sister or mother wasn't driving it

What are you trying to achieve ? , if you don't mind me asking .... PM if you like

You can't swap caps between blocks- the caps are line bored as a set with the block

Make sure you ground it properly and use a good quality type coolant...I would suggest flush the system and use 3 bottles of BMW coolant.

Did the repairer road test the vehicle for 10-15km after completing the repair and bleeding the system correctly ? Does the repair come with a warranty ? Was the repair restricted by your ability to afford to do all the suggested replacement items ?

Have you tried these guys Roland ?? www.alleuroparts.co.nz

Or using the wrong repairer

I get no valve train noise at all after driving hard for extended track days or extended sprinted road trips in mine using ELF 5w30 full synthetic Euro4 oil.... mind you the motor in mine is not a sludged up import and I only use genuine oil filters

I didn't say it was bad... I just won't use it and many customers with Euro cars say that their vehicles don't like it

I use 95 (Z) in everything that has a spark plug that I own, including cars, rideon, chain saws, weed eaters & mowers. I wouldn't put Gull or blended fuels in anything I own.

My thread isn't illegal some of the offers maybe. Doing a little research today I've found quite a few sites that offer free downloads. Kim will give me a good deal anyway

Call me in the morning (09) 2722546

Has the oil level been checked at the right temperature ? by someone experienced to do this properly ??

Has the vehicle been scanned for fault codes yet ? This will determine where the fault may lie, It may / or may not be an actual "transmission fault" as in gearbox out material