*Glenn*

If the ignition was turned on with the ECU's disconnected it probably has fault codes stored that would need to be cleared with a Scanner

Gavin @ High Velocity Ph. (09) 4424451

It would have to come off to weld it Max. The heat of welding would create a sump fire or an explosion. The oil would also prevent the alloy from welding properly. It needs to be perfectly clean

How about being a sponsor on the forum ?

I'm sure Steve (crunchy) will chime in here soon, however, my understanding from everthing I've read and seen servicing turbo vehicles is, that all drains must run straight & shielded into a suitable resevoir or sump, without any restriction by size, angle or recipricating force to the drain apparture. The brass fitting you have fitted into the sump is pointing straight at the crank and if it's not shielded inside the sump, the rotational force will try and pump oil up the drain. It's also at right angles to the turbo drain apparture, which can puddle oil under different driving conditions

SOLUTION: Keep wheels - buy new car Keep car- buy correct size / fitting wheels & tyres Problem solved

I wasn't thinking correctly Andy.. you were correct.. Bad day at the office today

Shimmy at speed without braking can be tyres, suspension components or wheels ( hubcentric issues) Under braking the issues can be CAB bushes, rotors, calliper slides, hubcentric brake component issues combined with a combination of the whole lot. Machining the rotors will not resolve issues of shimmy that occur without braking.

Are you giving up racing Ollie ??

I've seen that posted elsewhere... you should read the whole thread.... do you have the link Askan ??

I think it was posted in General discussions somewhere

Repost Clinton... he's got 2 for sale

It's all in here http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents.html

STOP..... isolate the cylinder /s first and work from there... we're all guessing & offering suggestions that perhaps are going to confuse everyones input. After isolation ... make sure it's always the same cylinder that misfires when it's cold

The sensor shouldn't effect just 1 cylinder though. Have you isolated which cylinder is giving the problem yet ? The temp sensor would give either a lean or rich mixture over all cylinders... not just one. Try a cylinder leak test... try cold first then hot... that may isolate any mechanical fault once you have identified which cylinder is giving the problem. Another thought: Have you got another DME you can try ?

Some interesting info in here to ponder on http://www.garageboy.com/bmw/brakefaq.html

Get a deposit off people based on the cost last time to keep people serious and not waste your time.

Have the valve clearances been re-done since the engine was rebuilt Mark ??

Check with Jo at the BM Workshop Ph. (09)2716636

Have a great day Brent From Glenn & the Team

Your talking about an eleven year old car... it could cost anything between $1,000 - $6,000 or more, depending on what went wrong in any given year

Have a great day Marcuss From Glenn & the Team

Have a great day Rick From Glenn & the Team

Don't know of anyone down that way.. I'm sure one of the mainlanders will chime in with a recommendation. It might mean travelling a fair way though.

If your going to do it yourself, try Euro Italian our sponsor, McMillans or BM Workshop in Grey Lynn for the parts. Also make sure you use good quality torx sockets otherwise you'll end up having to remove the plenum chamber. It's quite easy with the right tools, can turn to crap quite easy as well.