hotwire

As far as temp - bound to be an air lock. Oil burning - are you meaning there is a continuous supply of oil dropping onto the manifold/exhaust? You should surely be able to see where it is coming from. Any residue on the exhaust will take quite a while to completely burn off - more than 10 mins

This really is another one of THOSE threads, I absolutely concur with Glenn. You are guessing, & probably inducing faults, & costs, as you try to diagnose. These vehicles, any modern for that matter, need diagnosing by people that have a knowledge of what they are doing. I have, over the years seen plenty of vehicles that have had MAF sensors replaced on a fault code, only for them to end up at work, still with the code, to find a vacuum problem causing the issue. Cases in point: My E39 - ABS showed RH/R wheel sensor fault. I suspected it a false code & upon checking, confirmed the module with an intermittent dead output to the sensor. Last week, a rough idle/misfire. Scanned - 3 codes - ign cyl 2 & 5 faults & fuel trim. Yea right I thought. Diagnosed to a split (another argh) vacuum hose. Was surprised the MAF hadn't thrown its toys too with a code Battery voltage: 11.8 = flat, 12.8 is fully charged, mid 14v charging (varies depending on state of charge of the battery) Certainly no disrespect but with these cars - a little bit of knowledge can be dangerous.

Cant think why they are handed, on the E39 at least. The wipers orintation are the same for left or right hand drive. They are biased to left hand market but the drivers arm is on an elongated cam arrangement so that it extends further into the corner of the screen. Unlike earlier cars where worked opposite for each market.

Yep, put a new one on & forget about it. As you say - finding a good second hand one. Even if - getting off & back on again may well change that. I doubt there is an aftermarket option.

Amen!

BUT - YOU were stopped at the point of contact. She omitted to make sure her path for the u turn was clear. Quite likely a simple "didn't see" on her part, but still her mistake. Flimsy case is an under statement.

Yep, obviously you were stationary & she drove across you. You have nothing to worry about. Notify (as you oviously will) the Merc owner, keep the pics, & let insurance companies argue it out.

The screen is eurothaned in so wont leak there. Water will tend to sit there though & if any damage to the paint - previous screen replacement, then you will have a rust issue. Best replace the trim.

Graeme, the damage to the cars (pics you have) should make it blatantly obvious as to how the accident occured. If you were still moving when contact occured - your car would have emplanted somewhat into her vehicle, rather than a scrape along the side her car as you describe. I had a similar situation happen a couple of years back in my work ute. In drizzling weather in winter at dusk, while driving through town, a guy with a tandem trailer on pulled out of a parallel park. I would have been doing less than 50kph, closer to 40, I jumped on everything, locked up & veered towards the middle of the road & coming to a stop overlapping the trailer. With me thinking we had missed - he continued the manouvre and the trailer corner caught the front edge of the passenger door & along the guard & hooking the front bumper, I chased about him about 10kms trying get his attention. Gave uop & 555 him. Following a phone discussion weeks later with Police, oficer played it down, suggesting the driver was unaware (yea right!) of the incident, He was elderly, & if I met him, I would sympathize. I replied that as long as it didn;t affect our policy - I didn't care. He suggested it wouldn't. Guess what - it did. I then challenged it & proceeded a claim against him. He then accused me of having been speeding. ARGGGGGH Hearing was due mid last year. He came into work a week before trying to get us to drop it - NUP - too late mate!. Then, a day before the hearing - he accepted liability. All I was wanting in the first place. Both parties were insured, I was just staunch that I was NOT responsible! Good luck Graeme

Nup, seems F/L tanks either suffer from or don't. Not absolutely confirmed the reason for but suspect cavitation under the pick up. Improved (but not eliminated) in my car by depressing the bottom of the tank under the pump pickup. Edit, not a problem for me in sprint races as i need to run a full tank to make weight. Haven't yet done an endurance race in it to have an issue.

Yep , fuel surge under 1/2 a tank on the track (R/H turns) is quite a common issue in E30's. Not all though which is a little bizzare

E30 series runs factory system. If you want to run an external pump, get a low pressure in tank lift pump (as fitted to some E30 318's that ran two pumps) to replace the in tank hi pressure unit. Cant really imagine though that factory system doesn't have enough flow. Edit, Josh posted as i was replying. To insulate - just get the factory external pump mounting brackets which have rubber conrols to mount the pump

^^^^^^ Bloody awful. I like the wood but only the dark option as is in our E39

Andy, I think you will find a 3.4 too tall. E30 series cars run 4.1 which is pretty much ideal. I realize you have a different engine but you are still unlikely to get near 230kmh on NZ tracks. I think you will probably be better suited to late 3's or 4.1

Yep seen that too. Talked to a Roller driver recently while fixing the machine. Thinking he was in a hurry to get back to rolling the seal that had just been laid, his response - "na the traffic will do it" No wonder our roads pack up!

I spy another race car Nik

Most E30 Tourings seem to be from the UK & the majority are manual. Maybe Ron needs/wants one of these too

Yep. Cam mark may not, probably wont, line up perfectly but there will be an obvious "correct" position once the belt is on.

I assume you are talking about an M20. Very simple to set timing. Line the marks up as you fit the new belt, making sure there is no slack in the belt on the leading (non tensioner) side. The tensioner then takes up the slack on the trailing side.

Think they can be bought online, cant recall where offhand. I just made one - many years ago.

Ron will want both of them cause they are MANUAL

Pans wont be able to help with a code. They are parts wholesalers

Mike - are they hard faults? - can they be cleared? Also check ign switch. Faulty contacts on acc circuit will trip air bag circuit faults. Been there!

sh*t that part number (prefix) brings back memories.

Ha, was just thinking the same