hotwire

Too true - the vast majority of that list is standard kit. Certainly not dissing the car - merely the comment

Ok, not pointing the finger at you suggesting you were endorsing, merely it was being somewhat shrugged off. Yes, I also agree on people covering up other potential hazards, but again -that is another issue. Things need to be cleared up as they become apparent. Yes in certain circumstances an Air Bag system can be removed from a car, but in this case - the COMPLETE system must be removed. Yes correct BUT - being that it is intended as replicating a part, there is a potential for discrepency & cause the system to shutdown. No different to any other fault in the system I agree, but IMO (as is the law) the system should be bought back to factory spec

Nice car but dunno on the white upholstery though Also, a damn shame it was converted to RHD. That has has taken a chunk off its potential value from a Purest's point of view

Nice car but always makes me laugh when sellers come up with the comments "top spec, all options" For a start - no sunroof, no TV/Nav Would be interesting to see the build sheet against the available options...

^^^^^ WTF? What about the next unsuspecting buyer thinking they have a vehicle operating to factory spec & then being in an accident only to find the Air Bag system didn't deploy properly? I know, & understand, the unit is to trick the system into thinking the mat is present. however there are no guarantees that it WILL work. There is NO legitimate reason to use one of these - PERIOD! Yes, I agree there are worse vehicles on the roads, not the point though - two wrongs don't make a right!

To my knowledge BMW NZ use Best Bars to manufacture all tow bars for cars in NZ. I bought in a genuine unit from Europe for a person with an E70, along with the OEM wiring kit. It is the genuine removable tongue type, although didn't have a safety chain connection as we use in NZ. (euro spec don't use a safety chain as they have brakeaway systems fitted) The NZ X5 unit was approaching $2.5k (inc wiring). I was able to supply the OEM, inc wiring for much less

If it turns out to be the module - Prolly best to see if it can be fixed, a S/H unit that has not been touched will be on the verge of needing to be. Powerstop Engineering in Tauranga will fix it if it is able to be. Otherwise get hold of me - can sort new units Yes a replacement module requires coding to the car - it talks to the instrument cluster. Easy enough with the right coding device. I just dropped mine into the friendly dealer to programme ... Edit - no you don't need to get the parameters from the old unit - the replacement retrieves info from the cluster

^^^^ Would be for me too. Peugeot Diesels are good, but build quality is not there. Much as I sort of struggle with the name "Skoda", & jusifiably so with the originals, obviously since VW ownership they are a totally different beast

Haven't taken any real notice of the specs (origin) of them but I have seen a few with the original OEM battery fitted & being a DIN 66. The cars are set up for both fitments. I should have said - most non monitor cars had 88/92 rather than some. I have also come across some monitor cars that have had 66's as a replacement - not a good idea at all. I am in the trade & come across these cars frequently - I know what I have seen. Come to think of it - I don't ever recall seeing a UK import E39 in the flesh either. Adding too, I wouldn't take all JC BMW (BMW NZ) info as gospel either - I have proven them with wrong Nav info before...

Some E39's came with DIN 66. Any with monitors had DIN 85/92. Some no monitor cars too probably. I have seen them with OEM of both sizes

Bastardised some great engineering by installing a boat anchor under the bonnet! Worse than a rotory powered E30...

It is probably still pixel failure. Originally our car had pixel failure of varying degrees right throughout the display. Robinson Instrument Service in Auckland repair them

To pick up on this, again with respect - that is in the "ideal" world. The real world, in a small business, is a different kettle of fish. There are interuptions ALL the time. I have always been in this situation - phone calls, customers, urgent call outs (assuming the worked on car is not immediately required) Your model would work in a large franchise workshop where a mechanic is issued with a specific job from start to finish. I often get calls with customers wanting to speak to me, many straight to my mobile. This is the reality of a small business. Along with electrical, I have done sh*t loads of mechanical over the years, & have often had 3 or more jobs on the go at one time - cars in various states of disassembly. It requires a logistic sequential approach & re checking everything to confirm all bases covered.

^^^^ With respect. To start throwing numbers around & arguing/justifying them & then admitting to using them only as an example doesn't wash. I do seriously take issue with a lot of what you have said. I am only on wages in a small Auto Sparky business but I am fully aware of the costs that are involved in running the business. I am on realitively good money (I wouldn't get out of bed for $15 an hour, even 20 & barely for 25) It would have been 15 or more years ago when I was on $15 an hour We charge out @ $72 + (par for the course here) & we need every $$ we can get to make it work. Business costs - lease, rates, phone, insurances, wages etc etc... Equipment costs Then factoring in down time (& there ALWAYS is), quiet times, holidays etc & there needs to be a substantial margin between wages & charge out. It is really no different for a decent mechanic either - they cannot now get away without up to date equipment. Gone of the days of a mechanic being any good without electrical knowledge/diagnosing ability, & the tools to practice with. Infact I maintain an Auto Sparky with a sound mechanical aptitude is better off than a mechanic that knows a little electrical. The bridge between between electrical & mechanical now is very murky at best. There is no real place now for a "basic" mechanic. This nullifies somewhat your statement of only basic tools etc. I have been in the game for a long time & seen substantial changes in this time, it is getting harder & harder to make a buck in the trade - there are no, or very few, "cream" jobs as there used to be 20 + years ago. Repairs are much more labour intensive due to component access & even overhaul times so there are not the same "swings & roundabouts" there used to be. There are now plenty of curved balls that "cost" time! So, I do not agree that there should be a lesser charge for fitting brake pads - it still comes down to the competency of the technician as to the time they take & then charge. And, from a business point of view - this could be deemed one of those "cream" jobs. Yes I agree you should have a good business model, but the "real" world is different to the "ideal" world. Agree the market will dictate, but when all in the area are on the same page, & offering similar service, productivity will be dictated by the climate at that time. We are not always busy, but then again - nor is our competition at the corresponding moment in time.

Good on you. I was too until ours did the same, I had many people on my Nav data base contact me about this & asking advise & then..... If you find you need a new unit - get hold of me

^^^^ Ok but it certainly looks like that area has been repaired from the pic. As I said in my first post - when the modules fail - they can write all sorts of incorrect faults, often external faults to the module (speed sensors, voltages etc) all red hearings. That said - some of those faults listed are internal module faults. In any case that pic looks suspect

Haven't got one but when having played with idrive systems, I have changed between these formats -as above it will be in the settings/display menu somewhere, can't recall where specifically. Have a play with things to familiarise.

Nup, it is actually an explosive device. When an airbag is deployed, it also sets this unit off to isolate the battery for safety. So, in the event of an airbag needing replacement after an accident, so this battery link lead assy needs replacing too, for a cost of course...

Yep, looks to me like it has been previously played with too. That is one place they often fail. That said the OP will know as you literally have to break into them the first time, then silicon or similar to close them again. There is always a tell tail sign. Been there too with the ign switch on mine - weird happenings - no monitor, airbag light partially on. Turned out intermittent voltage drop on acc output. Because I could be bothered, & I didn't have a replacement on hand, I pulled mine apart & cleaned the contacts - all good There was no real wear on them Edit, I wouldn't hold my breath for the ABS thing though

No it doesn't look normal. Whether or not that is the problem though is another thing. You cannot always go by the fault codes that are logged, I have seen many times where they have written a book of codes & all are bullshit. It is the unit that has been the fault. Conversely I had mine where initially randomly, & then frequently, the lights would come on, the speedo would stop. Scanning it - showed no fault codes. With fault present, current data would show R/H rear sensor dead. Smelling a rat, I monitored the RHR sensor out of the module & confirmed when the fault was present the module output voltage to the sensor was dead - a faulty module! I have found that a good percentage of units are repairable, but some, as mine did, prove not able to be.

^^^^^ To my knowledge only the dealers can source security parts from BMW AG. I have a source in Europe with direct access to BMW AG. They can source all OEM BMW parts but for security parts - EWS/keys etc

The car originally came with four keys - two master, one valet & a service key - a plastic one. Yes they do come from Germany - already cut & programmed to the individual car. Last I knew a master was $450 ish + You can get a non remote version much cheaper. May be expensive but not as much as some of the Jap cars, or other Euro for that matter. As to your question - not that I am aware of

Oh dear......

Yep, I knew that Toyota had changed to conventional wiring setup for headlights, just couldn't remember when. Than ran insulated return system on most of their vehicles for years. One/two relays won't change the lamp brightness, it is just a matter of the relay contacts being able to handle the current flowing through them.

Header tank - what about a F/L one? - sits in left front corner. oops, just seen - to late...