M3AN

Okay, it's well known I don't agree with everything Ron says but to recommend a semi-synthetic oil for the S50 is beyond barmy! I'm stunned. Do NOT use that Magnatec oil Dane, use fully synthetic oil (Edge is Castrol's brand for this in NZ and elsewhere). I'm not going to debate that in this thread either, read the rest of the internet to work out why a mineral based oil is stupid. http://www.castrol.com/en_nz/new-zealand/car-engine-oil/engine-oil-types.html Any reputable synthetic oil from 0w-30 to 10w-60 will work just fine in these engines, something somewhere in between those extremes would be preferable. Edit: I've used Edge 10w-60 and 5w-40 and prefer the 5w-40 which is what I use currently.

I think this is being enormously over complicated. Even the cheapest mineral oil available off the shelf would be good enough to lubricate those parts assuming it got there. Or I may have missed some sarcasm above?

To celebrate getting her back on the road I added 15hp. Well, at least that's how I translated the Taiwanese auction description!

Yep, I saw that post but free is better! You home tonight? I would like to get that sorted.

You'll need to specify whether you need a sunroof headliner or not. Full glass out respray will be in the order of $6k gulp!

Since you're both on this thread: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E36-M3-3-2L-S50B32-321PS-Nocken-Nockenwellen-Einlas-Auslass-Zylinderkopf-/400698116926 http://www.ebay.com/itm/original-BMW-E36-M3-3-2L-S50-Nockenwellen-Einlass-und-Auslassnockenwelle-/142128523032 And if you want to keep an eye on eBay in Germany: Nocken = Cams Nockenwelle = Camshaft Nockenwellen = Camshafts Exhaust = Auslass

I wonder what they call "big mods"? “The changes made on the car are not that advanced really. It has a supercharger..."

Cheers Jo, yes sorted now - was a matter of bleeding it fully. I flushed the new radiator with a garden hose for some time before I installed it so was pretty sure the passageways were clear and fortunately it did get hot!

So, this is now sorted and she's officially a "daily" now. Was a matter of getting the system properly bled, there was air remaining in the system. Love the self bleeding system on the M3, this manual system sucks balls. But I'm there now, heater blows hot and the temp gauge doesn't budge from centre. New synthetic oil and filter to match also done this weekend as well as a wash, she's looking as good as she's going to get I think (aka pretty average). Fuel and spark seem fine but I'll check them out over time. Idle is perfect and pull is what I'd expect for a slush-box. So far $2,500 in and pretty happy. Trans oil and filter next, Glenn's on my list for a call this week and if the price is right I'll get his guys to do that for me.

I didn't test the thermostat (and now recall reading about boiling it!) but I think it's the latter, an air-lock of sorts. These things are a PITA to bleed! Now on the second attempt and 20 mins in, with engine at temp, I still have air bubbles and no hot air in the cabin. I've even elevated the front of the car so the bleeder hole is the highest point. Squeezing hoses and all. Attempt 3 when she's cooled down again.

lol - yes, thanks - fan runs off the pump of course.

Will report back but not sure I'll learn much, the stuff that came out was awful. Mineral or semi-synth at best. I flushed about a litre of the good stuff down the oil filter housing and through the engine until it came out gold but that's hardly a proper engine flush. I should probably drain it all again in 1000 km's and replace the filter again to give her a fresh(ish) start but that's another $100 and not sure of the gains. Perhaps if the Penrite is on special again at around that time I'll do it.

Yep. Once you find that spring (and you'll need to for obvious reasons) then do all assembly and disassembly of the pump disk in a plastic bag so when (not if) the springs fire out you catch them in the bag. To assemble do two opposing springs and pistons, assemble that in the ring then, with the ring holding those two in, spin the disk a little in the ring to expose the two remaining hole and then fit the springs and pistons to those. Good luck! Need those tools?

10 litres of this stuff is currently on special at Repco for $90 which is pretty sharp. Just loaded the 328i up with it.

Right so "finished" the cooling system today and something's not right: Warms up to temp in good time and holds in the middle of the gauge whilst idling Check control is fine No hot air to mention from heater (first sign something is amiss) Within 300m of driving temps start to rise fast and car need to be stopped Check control now says to check coolant level Coolant level is fine once it's cooled down enough to check Clutch fan seems fine System isn't leaking New radiator, thermostat, thermostat housing, water pump, hoses. So something ain't right. Any ideas?

Nice of you to trim before you flash, that's just polite. But shaving is much less painful and a lot faster than plucking!

No, they all do it from the factory, it's normal. Theories abound but the prevailing suggestion is that it was designed into the car to compensate for a driver sitting in a LHD vehicle. General consideration is that it makes no difference but if you want to corner balance the car you'll need to use 15mm spring pads in the rear and 10mm pads in the front on the right hand side.

Double glazing doesn't make windows "bullet proof".

Sweet, I'm out tonight though.

It's actually surprising how much people want for 318's! Because BMW.

Donor doesn't have a working 11 button OBC does it?

Bring it round to my place mate, I'll do that and the VANOS test for free.

I have some floor mats in less than showroom condition you can pick up from Ellerslie for free.

Well, I'm using the equivalent kit from UUC on my 3.2 and according them they fit: * E36 M3/328/325/318 (all except Ti/Compact) 1992-1999 Well, everything except the Compact...