M3AN

Before: During: After: Despite various internet confirmations my wheels don't clear the callipers... 😕 Looks like I need some 5mm spacers and an updated cert... 😖

Nathan (@zero) possibly?

If it's the same as when you got it then nothing is wrong.

Black and gold livery, nobody would believe it was standard issue!

This is a good read with pics: https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=36349 They don't necessarily need replacing but they're apparently worth checking and the inside one is the more difficult one to get to, if it's easy to check with the oil filter housing out of the way I'd do it then. See here as well: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1491080

Would be great to see it stay in the family. Boy that interior was a score, still looks mint. So many (still) near new parts on the car too. GLWS Nick!

I suspect the inside DISA valve (is that what's it's called?) might be easier to access if the oil filter housing and cooler are off the car, reaching in under the intake runners... I stand to be corrected though!

Ace. Let us know how you get on when it dries up!

Looks great. 👍

Washed the 130i in the driveway for the first time since, well, Covid I suppose. Used the Bosch water blaster I got during the original lockdown for the first time ever, it's been sitting in the garage taunting me since May. It was 25% off for a week so I thought 'why not?'. Delighted with the pressure washer and the included 'snow cannon' seems to work just fine, no need for a $100 extra at this stage.

Sorry to hear this mate, sounds like you're taking smart steps. If specific individuals are triggering it, that's really important to acknowledge and address. Ask EAP for help to manage any such conflicts in the work environment, get them on the table real quick, it doesn't need to be a formal complaint or escalation. Best wishes. 👍

$17k for a 2006 manual with 126 kms and absolutely nothing special, might not even be in NZ yet. 😣 Seriously, they probably paid NZ$5k for it FFS. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/listing/2909759058

Why not fit a bypass? Your car (E90) will be written off if 1 airbag fires, no additional harm if two fire. A bypass just means that the passenger airbag will fire regardless of whether there is a passenger, that's all. Don't pay the silly ~$60+ price people are asking, it shouldn't cost you more than $30, I think mine was US$12.

There are some minor adjustments you can make: Research the "camber pin mod" and do that before your alignment and then ask for as much front camber as can be achieved so that it's equal on both sides. Advise them that it can be adjusted at the top of the strut (because you've just removed the camber pins which allows for an extra half of a degree of camber). You should end up with about 1 degree of negative camber up front. If you ask for a small amount of toe out at the front you'll gain sharper turn-in and mid-corner traction at the expense of directional stability. Around -0.5mm (I run -0.6mm) will be fine. Needs to be even on both sides. That's not BMW spec which is toe in for pottering around town. Compensate for the (tiny) loss of directional stability up front by going a little toe in at the rear, again no more than about +0.5mm. BMW spec is quite timid here too, they're expecting nearly +1mm of rear toe which is unnecessary unless you want to drive with your hands off the wheel. Max rear camber, even on both sides. There's not a lot of adjustability here and you can't go too far. Castor is factor of all of the above and can't be adjusted independently. You want a resulting "thrust angle" of 0 degrees or as close to it as possible (mine is 0*01' - 1/60th of a degree - so effectively zero). Make sure you get the printout to take home.

Yep, the alu one is for the hose that comes up across the front of the block and belts.

Gauges, coilovers, fancy exhaust, stickers, LSD and a BIG wang, all for less than 10k... you could probably remediate and recover it. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/listing/2905766777

And the thermostat at the same time. And apparently the U shaped hose the connects the pump to the thermostat.

Wow, I was just reading about this the other day, didn't know it was a thing but it is. It's apparently caused by the oil filter housing or oil cooler leaking and dripping down onto that plastic flange and killing it over time. Assuming we're seeing the same thing there's an alu upgraded part (link here) although the hose clamp that comes with it is apparently way too big so factor that in. Note that I've not purchased the part so perhaps check reviews and alternatives.

2005 manual with a $9,500 effective reserve... https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/listing/2902297134

Well, if it's been sitting in the sun for 3 years, add a new headliner to the list of must dos. You wonder how some dealers make any money.

I'm sure you know better than that Chris! Too expensive by ~$6k. Manual, smanual... 😉 (forgive me for being defensive). But no really notable options, BMWP pedals, Aero spoiler, CD instead of MD (who cares?), no PDC, no sunroof, no cruise (😁), nothing else... and the oil cooler has lost its cover! Shame. And the thing is, at ~90k kms, probably everything underneath and up front needs replacing. I'd say it's a $11.5k (marketed) car that you'd need to be prepared to sell for $10.5k. Edit: you can get a F20 M135i for less than what they're asking for this.

I went for a WoF in the 130i today... it took a sum total of 14 minutes, paint me stunned. In the first instance I rocked up to the local garage at 16:35 and expected them to tell me 'after Christmas' but the owner said 'we'll do it now if you want' - first surprise. I said yep, I'll wait and, after taking it for a quick drive, the owner drove it back in to the free bay and 3 people descended upon it and worked like bees. I drove out, with a fresh WoF, at 16:49... couldn't believe it. Admittedly it's mechanically sound, very clean underneath and has new tyres but 14 minutes (including paying)!?! VTNZ need to take a lesson.

^ That is a fact.

38 to 40 PSI is a good general recommendation (I run that rear tyre on both of my cars). Never leave an alignment without the correction sheet, you've paid for it after all. You'll know for next time. If it was only recently the shop will probably have it stored, it might be worth asking them... even for a small fee it's probably worth getting.

Without knowing how much camber and toe he was able to dial in it's really just guesswork. If you can upload the results sheet that would help.