M3AN

Welcome, and of course, we always like pictures! 😎 Stay safe. 😷

Looks to be this steering wheel: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/partxref?q=32307845877 You should be able to find one, sans airbag and slipring (reuse your existing ones), for pretty cheap if you can find somebody with a wreck of one of the models listed in the link above. I wouldn't pay more than $150 for a mint one from a wreck. The question is, if it's the right car for you, how long can you tolerate the existing wheel before a replacement pops up? 🤔

Whilst most of the above is true the most important thing hasn't been mentioned... the S50B30 M3 (~92-95) (i.e. your one) has a unique steering rack which is considered amongst the worst BMW has provided, it has no redeeming features, it's not used on any other vehicles. Unless there's a ZA difference the rack in your 318 will be the same as in an M3 Evo which is still considered vague as best. In ascending order of preference: 95 M3 Rack -> Standard E36 (inc. M3 Evo Rack) -> Retrofitted E46 Sport Rack ("purple tag") -> retrofitted Non-M Z3 Rack. Some are progressive, some are linear, some have other changes, tons of info out there on the 'net.

Yes, that's why I found it so useful. The relevant standard hasn't been updated since 2016 anyway and, to the extent of my research, the spacer regulations haven't been changed since 2003. The page I linked to is a really good source of information about things that need to be considered, especially because many of these LVV standards are so vague! It certainly helped me to read through the comments considering I was starting with very little info.

Yep, new cert sounds like a 'mare unless you know the engineer. As for the e87, essentially just make sure your wheel can still securely engage the hub and centre and the complexity and risk decreases dramatically. You have about 10mm to play with (up front at least, I've not measured the rear).

I don't disagree with any of that Nick, indeed that's all the stuff I found amongst others. I think the highlighted bit above is the key... for example my interpretations was similar to your but differ to the LVV engineer guy's, then add in a page like this (including all the comments) and the confusion is just amplified, it's a minefield! I will double-check my bolts today on the back of your post... stock is 25mm (thread) and I can get 27mm bolts if necessary, 30mm will probably be too long (potentially bottoming out) but I'm not sure. That's one thing I will not skimp on. Thanks for the post, helps as a good cross reference and sanity check. 👍 Edit: I've asked for non-multi-fit spacers, so 5 holes only, that was one of the things that concerned me most.

I tend to agree actually... shouldn't it be "spacer centric" rather than "wheel centric"? LVV guy didn't look like he'd have the inclination for, as you say, such a semantic debate... I took my free advice and ran. 🤣

No actually, that was something I learnt. It's called wheel centric if you're using a spacer... sort-of makes sense because there's no hub-to-wheel interface. Most places refer to them as hub centric only but, since you can have a hub centric spacer that's not wheel centric (i.e. it has a flat outside face) then referring to them simply as hub centric doesn't give you enough information to correctly identify them. In "proper" terms the required spacer is both hub and wheel centric (if the wheel can't engage the hub sufficiently). The LVV engineer was quite particular about this! 😇 I used to also think that hub and wheel centric were the same thing, now I know they're not. Edit: yes the ones in your link are hub & wheel centric.

~10mm... unless it has it's own flange to centre the wheel on which a lot do. Basically, if you can't engage the actual hub flange, the spacer itself needs to have a comparable (same diameter) flange, flat faced spacers are a big no-no (apparently) and lug/bolt centric solutions are also unacceptable. Essentially, if the only thing stopping the spacer (or wheel) moving around is clamping force then it can't be certed.

A few new findings regarding the brakes. Multiple people in the UK have since confirmed their Style 208's fit the m-light brakes... yet my calipers and wheels (and hubs and rotors) seem true. There's a small possibility the rotor hats are too thin but, being Zimmerman, that seems unlikely. I visited a LVV certifier today, and aside from being quite derisory about NZ Transports entire LVV programme, he was very helpful. He pointed out that certification, quoting NZT, was required because "you need to get an LVV certification if you heavily modify your vehicle" (emphasis added). He couldn't speculate on why slim spacers are considered a "heavy" modification. He also mentioned that NZT costs have gone up and a new cert could be between $1000 and $1500, 75% of which is administration and fees, not 'on vehicle' time. This is just more BS NZ hidden taxes. He suggested that at a fixed cost of $200 per certifiable change, more people would come through the door exposing dangerous mods rather than just skipping the cert altogether. Anyway, he answered these questions which are either ambiguous, misleading or simply missing from the certification standard, leaving it up to the certifier and customer (if you're lucky) to interpret it and sort it out. 1. a spacer can have more holes in it than required for the application (e.g. a spacer that suits both a 4 and 5 stud car, so 9 holes, is fine). This is not clear in some parts of the requirement and ambiguous in others. 2. A spacer must affix to either the wheel or hub (rotor) but, since there's no method specified and most can't be affixed, then simple heat resistant adhesive is good enough to stick it to the rotor hat (it's not load bearing and, being hub centric, can't move about). It's just to stop the spacer falling off when the wheel is removed and some numpty forgetting to put it back on. 3. All spacers must end up being wheel-centric (regardless of vehicle type) and this is real tricky in some applications. For a BMW we must use hub-centric spacers that have a corresponding flange on the outside unless... 4. The spacer is thin enough to allow the hub flange to extend beyond the spacer and engage with the wheel. 5. With <5mm spacers you probably don't need new wheel bolts but check they turn fully 6 times before torqueing them up. The good news is with 3mm spacers I will both clear the brakes and have heaps (~7mm) of the original hub flange engaging with the actual wheel to ensure wheel centricity. His final bit of advice? If you already have a cert (I do) then don't bother with a new cert if you're using 3mm spacers, it's a waste of time and money because most WoF shops won't ask to see the cert or even know what to look for on a cert. Since my last warrant never even required sighting of the cert I can understand this advice, regardless of how prudent (read: legal) it actually is. But he did emphasis that you must use high quality wheel bolts or studs and nuts and never, ever aluminium. Anyway... I'm ordering some high quality 3mm slip on spacers this evening and will attack the front brakes again when I get the time. The LVV guy said to take it in to him for a quick look-see after I've done the work to get his opinion on whether it's safe and roadworthy. I'm not really sold on a particular long-term path yet but will change the brakes out and use a slim spacer in the short term. If worst comes to worst I have confirmed my BBS RC's clear the calipers without spacers.

Your search-fu needs updating, here's some more: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/527979850.html Now, if you can find some with reasonable shipping I might be in for a set of plastic/FRP ones.

Agreed, it just doesn't suit my BBQ needs at the moment. When I got the Weber 6 years back I laboured over this choice... eventually I'll have both. 😎

I'm pretty impressed with Weber's (BBQ's) customer service. I need new burner tubes for my 6yo "Family Q" (3200) and they're not supplied at retail. Smart Marine gave me the email address to reach, I sent them an email over the weekend, they replied on Tuesday. I wasn't able to reply to them with the requested photos until after 5pm on Tuesday but received an email reply less that 15 minutes later that my replacement parts will be with me in 3-5 days, no charge. Happy with that. I don't mind paying a margin for quality products with quality service standing behind it. Well done Weber.

Edit: No I can't remember sorry, was it @Lucan? Does this help? https://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/52434-life-is-choice-bro-thread/ Edit 2: I'm not overly worried but I seem to recall it being around recently, I was searching to post in it.

FTFY.

Where did the "Life is Choice" thread go? 🤨😕

Okay, "less deductions" perhaps. BMW did make changes on '05, in addition to recommending 10w60 ('03?) so the risk is (should be?) lower. Having said that, pretty much every M car of that era has the same problem so I'm not sure BMW actually worked out how to prevent it. Subframes can be repaired correctly although it's more difficult in a 'vert because of where the roof folds in. Regardless, I'd still want to check it properly.

The practical reality is that the market for an e46 M3 is tiny, and of that tiny market about 99% won't even consider a convertible so you might be looking at one or two people a year who will come and kick the tyres, then walk away at this price. It's just not realistic. Hardtop might have cost $7k but it's worth nothing with the car now, it's a (necessary) giveaway. No mention of rear subframe consideration and it's a UK import which are two huge (multi-thousand dollar) considerations. It will cost you $400+ to have it properly checked for rust. Being an '05, as long as the owner can prove it's been run on 10w60 its whole life then no deductions there. VANOS? Spurious headlights and badges... not so good. Driver's seat is falling apart. The problem is, in this market, how can you tell? I don't actually think listing it as $42k is a stupid idea, I just don't think it will sell for that and if the seller isn't pragmatic, for the reasons above it will sit there for a long time. I think they'd be smart to quickly accept a $32-$35k cash offer if it came along.

Or part weeks to ease into it...

I didn't mean "quicker" I meant "faster" as in actual velocity not acceleration... i.e. the bikes are doing 290km/h and that Porsche passes them like they're standing still, it was going a lot faster, well over 40km/h faster... But, yes, I'm pretty sure the bikes accelerate quicker up to a point.

I quite like this whole video but the last 20 odd seconds is truly impressive... that's a lot faster.

Price is a joke... and: 🤨

Not sold but that Dakar is sure purdy!

That's a smart looking car Edward, nice one and welcome! Regular Auckland casual meet the first Sunday of most months, no doubt Feb 2021, see you there. 😎

It does suck. But yes, +5mm will clear. The BBS wheels I had on are ET38 and cleared easily, these are ET49 up front so I have some room to play with. To be honest, I want spacers on the rear actually to fill out the guards but couldn't justify a new cert just for that, this might be enough to tip me over the edge. I might be able to squeeze +10mm in the rear, +8mm might be better though if I can get that. Not 100% decided so brake project postponed.