M3AN

Yep, it's the same one but that wouldn't concern me. Arron has a diagnostic computer and would probably show you any codes etc if you wanted. Other than that, it's leaks, clunks and bumps that you need to worry about and you also need to keep in mind that they will leak oil, regardless of the level of maintenance. My understanding is that he'll fix the valvetronic thing and his for sale thread lists the fixes to the original problems. Drive it, talk to him, and make a call based on how comfortable you are.

Mine was recalled for this, Auckland City BMW said they'd be in touch within a few weeks. Nearly a year later? Nothing. I've not received an airbag recall.

Arron's legit and knows what he's doing, I'd trust the work he's doing and he'll probably be able to help or advise you if you needed that down the road. I'd certainly put it on my list to look at and seriously consider if I was down that way.

This one is still expensive but at least $100 less expensive: https://www.mrpositive.co.nz/bosch-s6-950cca-105ahr-agm-stop-start-battery Does the car have stop/start? If not, or if you can disable it, you won't need an AGM battery, save a further ~$300.

Finally the fronts are done... I'm going to get the fluid flushed and a re-bleed soon, the pedal's not as high and hard as I'd like and, whilst the existing fluid looks okay, I have no idea how old it is. Regardless of the tools or technique I use I've never been able to successfully bleed brakes so the pedal feel is probably operator incompetence. I did do a good job of getting brake fluid everywhere though! 👍

That was my first thought but although we had a chilly southerly blow in last night it was hardly extreme... although the plastic base does have a convex profile, I'm not sure if that's normal. No bumps but there is a central point that might be an impact tell tail but some of the other cracks don't emanate from that point. I feel a bit blind because I didn't notice/hear it immediately, only when I was exiting the motorway and I was like "WTF?". The actual wing mirror housing seems fine. Visited Zebra Onehunga hoping that the 1 x E8x they had might have mirror glass but no, the housing was still there sans cover and glass, damn. 😣 Have ordered a heated L+R replacement from Ali for ~$15, let's see how that goes!

Grrr... how does this happen?!?

Ahh yes, I forgot it had popped up for discussion before. I'm not a fan of the wheels or roof spoiler but I'd take the quad exhaust and intake. It's just around the corner from me, I wonder what they'd say if I asked to "test the diff" and 11'd it out of the carpark? But not $15k IMHO.

Another one with a GruppeM intake... but auto @ $15k. 🤔🤨 https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/listing/2897971880

I picked up a spare key fob for an E87 today, obviously the physical key doesn't unlock my car but can the electronic fob be reprogrammed to unlock/start my car? If so, how, is it a DIY?

I picked up a spare key fob today, obviously the physical key doesn't unlock my car but can the electronic fob be reprogrammed to unlock/start my car? Might x-post to quick questions.

I agree that rust is less likely to be a problem here but that thread and the US equivalent also confirm that gunk build-up can cause the issue and there are a multitude of reports that there's no specific ring code thrown in a lot of cases. But I'll defer to your expertise on what's required after replacing the ABS pump, I've never done that. It's just that replacing the pump isn't where I would have recommended starting, you can check the rings for free after all.

No, that's not the case. From the first post in the link I provided... That's a lot of "if" and "may". Regardless, it's still the first thing to check, I'm assuming you know this though so your comments are confusing.

I wonder if you can reach that dent from the inside and just push it out yourself?

This should have been your first stop: https://www.babybmw.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=104227

Anything will fit if you have a hacksaw and a sledgehammer!

No. Having said that, I got a "safety recall" early last year, followed the instructions, was advised I would be contacted in 2 business days and have heard nothing since. BMW obviously don't take safety very seriously at all.

A few corrections/additions... All Japanese E87's, regardless of year, come with hydraulic power steering LCI doorcards are not leather but they do have leather inserts, pre-LCI are all plastic There are actually 2 "facelifts" the 2007 LCI and the 2010 where the only change (I believe) was the iDrive (CCC), in the US their "LCI" is 2010. Pre-LCI does not have a temp gauge on the instrument cluster (sucky) I think...

I saw it early but didn't act fast enough... basically fought my common sense for 8 hours, common sense lost.

It just sold for asking to the first enquirer (not me). I would have given it a basic service, driven it for a month, swapped the intake to mine and flipped it. No great loss.

I'm guessing a strut brace won't fit if the camber pins are knocked out, unless the brace has slots of course but that would be a poorly designed brace.

Someone is looking at it tonight, if they don't buy it I've offered the seller asking price.

Video bump, see how easy it is... Although I'd shave the tab off rather than cutting the groove.

I fitted the 3mm slip on, hub centric spacers and longer wheel bolts this morning and I'm satisfied. The centre bore is perfect, the spacers tap on around the hub flange and then don't move, the mate is perfect and heaps of flange left for the wheel to centre on. Took her for a spin across the (legal ish) speed range and no wobbles or balance issues, happy with that. I'll tackle the brakes on one of the upcoming long weekends assuming nothing more important pops up. I went for Torq spacers and bolts from TM sold by 360link who was actually very helpful (and saved me some money in the process).

Bubbles are poor execution on plain glass although you will get some where any of those dots are around the edges of some windows (I don't know what they're for). They certainly should have washed the windows before application. Things might settle over a couple of days but it might pay to give them a call and ask. Otherwise I'd take it back in.