M3AN

No worries, sewing and curtain shops normally have a selection.

I don't think there's any avoidance necessary, at least I don't practice any. I'm pretty sure the pins would push aside any wires rather than pierce the sheath. I used the ones in the link below because they were cheap and readily available, if I had more time I know there are ones with more suitable heads available (like plain matt black or charcoal). https://www.mitre10.co.nz/shop/hillman-upholstery-pin-pack-of-16-clear/p/277799

Do modern cars use the engine coolant to also cool the trans? This may be my ignorance of modern vehicles but the only platform I know well enough is the e36 and there was no relationship between the engine coolant and the transmission back then. The auto cooler was a separate radiator up front that you pumped your transmission fluid through.

That sucks, great you have warranty coverage. How does glycol, presumably from your coolant, actually get into the transmission?

We're talking about an E82 William, don't wander away from the context. I'd be surprised if any BMW has 9 or 10 degrees caster, the 1 series, and E82 in particular certainly does not. Your theory is probably right (I'm not one to judge) but it has no practical application in this case. -2 degrees front camber in an E82 has absolutely no disadvantages, it's not even a trade-off.

I'll send him a PM over there and ask.

My point being that -2* is nothing, it won't adversely affect you in any way unless you're running around with the wrong pressures. All the things you mention need to be considered once you start winding in excessive camber, 2 degrees isn't excessive.

I also removed and cleaned the vanos solenoids and filters, after doing it first on blue one and understanding how simple it was. These ones had more buildup so I might do an early oil change but nothing to be concerned about, main gaskets all look okay. I need to sort out my 208's and tyres.

If you decide to get some I'll get a set as well (stage 1) so we could split the shipping. -2* camber up front is no problem, there's no disadvantage so it's sort of a "why not?" equation.

Not just you. And there's the misconfiguration of the forum software, raised months ago. And the lack of proper security certificates, also raised months ago. Given the amount of free technical support and even cold hard cash that's been offered by members here it's pretty inexcusable really.

Yes, less than half a degree. I've just checked my alignment sheet, camber pin mod + M3 front arms = 1*34' so 1.5 degrees 1*12' (was reading the wrong column!). FYI: https://babybmw.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=96465

Camber plates officially need a cert but if you get fixed ones nobody can tell. M3 LCA's will also help increase the camber. Yes, remove the camber pin first, then I'd say add M3 arms and finally camber plates. I'm sure the Dinan ones are hella expensive but you can get some from the UK for peanuts. I'll check my alignment sheet when I get home, I've removed the camber pin and added M3 LCA's, I think I've got about 1.5 degrees max.

Looks so good. ?

Suspension dynamics are complex, unless you're prepared to learn all about it, and have the ability to undertake back-to-back assessments at a track then coilovers are a waste of money, most people set-and-forget and if you're going to do that then you'll get a better result from an off-the-shelf combo. Assuming the E82 is as horrible as the E87 off the production line then read up here: https://www.babybmw.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=80208 https://www.babybmw.net/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=126836 TLDR; a matched Bilstein and Eibach setup works well off-the-shelf.

If that's the case then it's probably good money, sensibly priced although I'd want the big wheels for the price she's asking for the 17's.

This one has some nice bits on it... https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/listing/2770660792

No, nothing that adventurous. Box is 6 foot long. Maybe if the weather's good this weekend?

Malaga? Spain? Lovely place, I enjoyed a summer there once.

I have a "repair in a can" type product but have never used one. Are they actually any good? What about the ones with a pump (like the BMW mobility kit), are they better? Something like this on special for ~$75? https://www.repco.co.nz/en/4x4-adventure-escape/travel-touring/air-tyre/slime-smart-spair-flat-tyre-repair-kit-50107/p/A1287884 If it was going to do an "okay" job and get me, say 50-100kms to a service centre, it's probably worth 75 bucks. If they're a PITA and will only get me up the street then it's not really worth it, I'd just wait for recovery. Experience? Opinions?

Got some new bits for the M3. Installed the new O2 sensor in the 130i. No codes. Installed a DSC 'defeat' device in the 130i that turns off DSC upon startup. Works sweet. Locked my only key in the 130i, fished it our with wood, magnet and masking tape through a tiny slot in an open window. Whew. Had beers.

I had to transfer an O2 sensor to the blue one in order to get that running without faults for sale and the replacement Bosch unit arrived from FCP today. Test install (no cable management), cleared codes and nothing came back, yay! I'll route the cable and install all the crap in the engine bay over the next day or so and she'll be back on the road. And when I do get to drive her I'll have automatic DSC off (w/DCT on) from startup courtesy of @wrs who's done me a solid and created a timer board that effectively does the job of pressing the DCT button for me when I start the car! DSC is completely unnecessary in a car like this (< 300hp for a start), especially with an LSD and good tyres. DCT on the other hand allows me to play with the rear end without getting totally out of control. I can still press the DCT button to re-enable DSC or press and hold to turn it 'all' off. Essentially my start-up mode is now DCT (less nanny) rather than DSC (too much nanny) which is perfect. Thanks @wrs, you're a legend. BMW should allow you to set this to the default you want, "ultimate driving machine" lol.

Long time, little love for the M3. But this arrived today after being ordered in April. I knew it was extended lead time but they originally said July, then August, then September. All's well that ends well. This is just a tempter, more details to follow when I come to install... but feel free to guess. I've been wanting something like this for years.

Annoyingly the windows don't power up when you open the door, unlike the e36. Not sure why, that's dumb really.

Good idea on the ajar door, I've just gone and replicated the situation (but with the key in my pocket this time) and pushed the door closed, it stayed locked. But stick+magnet worked. ? Edit: key was in tray under armrest, lid was up. Now I shall keep the 'key' part of the fob in my pocket when I'm working on the car!