M3AN

"LTW" M3, 38k IIRC. What I suspect happened, because they're adamant they got a "proper" valuation, is that the valuer thought it was a genuine LTW because they did a Google image search and then looked on BaT, and they've convinced the idiot owner it is such.

For sure it's different and I realise all the 1M haters say it's not a "real" M car and of course if you run 100 pounds of boost your 135 will be faster but it's still the best (and only) widebody 1 series you can buy and it's the tits.

Okay, so I got back to the diff... In park, both rear wheels in the air and handbrake off, can't turn the wheels by hand. Thanks for the advice on that test Glenn. And for further confirmation: https://itstillruns.com/identify-limited-slip-differential-7805308.html In neutral both wheels spin in the same direction. Conclusive? If not, the fact that I've never seen the DCT light blink surely adds weight, I'm not driving like a nanny. Now, what ratio? Could well be stock but I just don't know.

They did me a solid. I'd not heard of them before but they were sweet to deal with. And I got a bargain.

$45k for a time bomb? No thanks. Subframe needs proof of doing, VANOS and pump hub need proof of doing, SMG pump and accumulator seals need proof of doing and then it's a $35k car at best. All these people selling 'quick' BMW's seem to be dreaming, whether it's an E30 M3, E36 M3, E46 M3, CSL, Z3M etc, etc, they're crazy prices. How many are actually selling? E60 M5's are selling for less than 25k, that 1M will sell for less than 50k... more realistic.

This thing just keeps getting better, and my smile wider. The pretty slick auto with these paddles seems to me to be the best of both worlds, with a bit of imagination it's both an auto and a manual, a poor man's SMG if you like. The new shifters are from https://www.nelsonracingwheel.com/ and I had to take a bit of a punt as they never got the e87 or the 130 in the US so compatibility was a risk. In the end I opted for the "pre-LCI" ones for my LCI and they proved to be the correct ones. You disassemble the existing paddles, swap in some new framework and attach the actual aluminium paddles - all of the original BMW electrics and micro stitches are reused. Then you swap the down (push) wire on the left and paddle into the up (pull) terminal and voila right is pull up, left is pull down and you can't press either paddle. Took me about 40 minutes. The action is firm and has a satisfying dull 'click', the aluminium paddles both look and feel great, I couldn't be happier. They felt immediately intuitive to me, I'm already comfortable reaching for them with opposite hands if I'm turning the wheel a lot. New lock nut set from @Lewis91 turned up in less than 24h, how sweet is that? A few more small things still on the way, it's working out well for me so far. Edit: oh and bonus, any BMW or aftermarket DCT shift paddles will work with these new switches, pull existing ones off, slide new ones on, 60 seconds.

BMW Performance Alcantara steering wheel insert... and look closely... ...because proper conventional paddle shifters... And they work as expected, total WIN! ??

I also replaced the tired looking kidney grills, they look worse in person than the photos (much like the rest of the car actually). And too yellow. With these matte black ones which fit perfectly and I think look great... Seems I need to adjust my bonnet a little. ?

The aerial that came off, worked perfectly, looked tatty... BMW "sport" replacement, longer but tidier...

lit

Well that's good to know... do let me know if you can find it on RealOEM or similar site... I could not... and web results from random pages suggested 120d (although I had a low level of confidence in that info). The wheels spin in the same direction when they're both unloaded (rear in the air) handbrake off and car in neutral - video on prior page. Are you suggesting I [need to] do it in park as well?

According to what I read you won't be disappointed with the Koni's either. I'd probably still recommend proper springs rather than the BS BMW+Bumpstop solution.

Yes @Jordy - it seems I got some nice surprises with the car: exhaust (which you can see is beautiful) has the Y pipe mod and resonator delete so it's not just something thrown together, that's how it should be done coilovers - completely missed by the dealer selling the car but also has a LVV cert and Eibach ERS springs and all the hardware on the shocks looks top notch LSD - needs more investigation but I'm a believer If the dealer knew all that I wouldn't have walked away with it for what I did. ?

It's only the glass that's different right? You could get a LHD set painted and then swap the glass at a later date? Just a thought.

I wasn't aware the rear shock mounts were an issue, what's the lowdown on them? Koni's will be fine, you'll need to dump the OEM springs and bumpstops though or you'll still pogo down the road. My preference is Bilstein + Eibach because the two companies work so closely together and their B12 kit's aren't just mix and match, they're made for the specific vehicle they're intended for. Not sure on price but if I ever need to replace my suspension it's likely to be with the B12 kit (I don't need coilovers).

They're from a bespoke JDM workshop called "Orange Wolf" - hard to find much info on them but they seem well made. Exhaust is from the same place and is well made. They're brilliant really, even if they're well worn. I found the stock motorsport suspension (on other 130's I tried) to be downright awful, even dangerous at speed. Upon further reading I understand BMW absolutely cheaped out on the suspension and use linear springs with struts that ride on the bumpstops which is such terrible engineering I'm embarrassed for them. If you don't need coilovers (most don't) then the Birds B1 or Bilstein B12 kits are the go.

Yes. I'll take them. ?

Sweet, it's yours. As simple a job as it is, it'll probably be the weekend so send me a PM so I can find you quickly, I'll likely lose track of this thread.

I might try these guys for the 130 (paint has been punished): http://www.mobilecarspecialists.com/car-detailing.html - and they're honest about the benefits of ceramic coatings. They come to you and charge less than $100 for ceramic "nano" coating after they've done a cut and polish. Which is the proper price point, not $700. Looks like for $349 + $89 I can get a cut, polish, detail, wax and ceramic coating. For $440 it's probably worth a punt. Anyone used them? Experience?

You told us how good they were! How could we resist? ?

It's well dumped... do you have access to a jack? If so lift the rear end, remove a wheel, take a few photos of the suspension and springs and post them here somewhere, I'm sure we'll be able to provide some insight. ?

Nice, some more 130 love. A few have popped up around these parts in the last 6 or 12 months, mine included. You definitely have some aftermarket suspension components in that, that thing is low! I'd have a look-see as a priority, you never know what you'll find! And welcome!

The actual aerial itself? The stubby "sport" one is 65 20 2 296 761 - mine just arrived yesterday. Assuming my swap goes to plan you can have the carbon fibre one I'm removing, it works fine but is not in perfect condition.

Use original BMW gaskets for the cam cover and plugs.

Schmiedmann Christmas order arrived (no GST). I added the free mug because it reduced the shipping cost by US$20. ? Matt black grills (replacing the tatty CF ones) BMW Performance Alcantara steering wheel cover (to match the shifter and boot) OEM stubby aerial to replace the naff carbon fibre one 3.5mm + USB aux 'switch' - requires quite a lot of wiring and coding I think, might never go in. I also received another package from the US that I'm a little bit excited about but I need to work out if it's a win or fail before I release the details (which I will do regardless of whether it's a win or fail). I want to install it all now but I'm on BBQ duty! ?