allan

Changing of the amp etc is not hard the part you need to beware of is the Key side and what series your EWS is. This gets more involved as the number gets higher my situation was a New Zealand vehicle which was RF but a larger cc motor from a japanese vehicle which had infrared. Using the motors electronics ews DME etc throw the whole system out of line. To keep the RF set up I had to get new keys from E-bay have them cut the correct transponder chips fitted inside the keys and the motor ews. As this was way above me and after some research I found a member Tom who seems to do wonders with this stuff. These items were sent to him and he down loaded the EWS info aligned the two new keys and transponder chips to the EWS and tested it. Upon fitting it all the vehicle could be remote locked and unlocked engine fired up with the use of a single key. What Andy is describe may be slightly different and not to take anything away from the work Andy he has put in but always research and question as your situation may not be the same.

Hows the brain working these days what do you see first? http://www.msn.com/en-nz/news/world/duck-or-rabbit-the-100-year-old-optical-illusion-that-can-tell-you-how-creative-you-are/ar-BBpue6g

What problem would it be to simply replace it with a common type relay?.

Not very economical at 8.1 for a diesel

yes to be a pain in your arse some times literally the devil made me do it http://insects.about.com/od/antsbeeswasps/f/What-Good-Are-Wasps.ht

Their was also a similar vid for the M3, M4 which i can't find it had some interesting odd things ie if you tilted the front seat forward if to high it would brake the mirror in the sun visor $300 odd later all fixed. Seems the rear disc and protector plate combined love to catch stones and result in a lovey noise.

Bugger, what makes it so special apart from being a bmw part

http://www.msn.com/en-nz/motoring/news/james-may-cheats-death-after-losing-control-of-his-porsche-as-storm-imogen-batters-the-uk/ar-BBpg6WZ?li=AAaeXZz

Hear what you are saying two examples come to mind State highway traffic flowing along great next thing a blaze of brake lights about five cars ahead a car turns right no indication i could see then a sign on the side of the road strawberry's for sale but plenty of room on the left to pull over. No 2 vehicle moves close to almost on top of centre line following vehicle slows and moves left. The first vehicle totally oblivious to the vehicle s behind does a right turn into a drive way no indication cloud of smoke horn given a thrashing I dare say a bit of blue language.Both of these drivers didn't seem to have a clue what mayhem they had coursed by their action got to wonder if people have their brain engaged when getting behind the wheel.

Hi Neal might like to extend that thought to some kiwi drivers as well

What trademe has for similar yr /price range http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/CategoryAttributeSearchResults.aspx?search=1&cid=268&sidebar=1&5=&14=&18=20000&18=25000&24=2005&24=2005&54=&searchRegion=100&sidebarSearch_keypresses=0&sidebarSearch_suggested=0

This turned up today http://forums.pelicanparts.com/bmw-1-series/901081-up-close-technical-look-new-m2.html?utm_source=Pelican+Pit+Stop+for+BMW&utm_campaign=603cce29ae-BMW_ChemGuys2_3_2016&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_e76dd1123d-603cce29ae-6806081 interesting. Did a google and it came up with this https://www.google.co.nz/search?newwindow=1&site=&source=hp&q=M3+M4+problems&oq=M3+M4+problems&gs_l=hp.3...2653.8062.0.8573.15.15.0.0.0.0.274.3148.2-12.12.0....0...1.1.64.hp..3.9.2396.0.3gXf8cNzlSs E30 fans might like this http://forums.pelicanparts.com/101-projects-discussion-forum-bmw-3-series/901100-honor-great-e30-m3-very-cool-video.html?utm_source=Pelican+Pit+Stop+for+BMW&utm_campaign=603cce29ae-BMW_ChemGuys2_3_2016&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_e76dd1123d-603cce29ae-68060817#post8983347.

Cones, Road work 30km signs the whole nine yards and traffic doing as asked. The only trouble no humans not a sole this was about 9 in the morning return later on in the day about 1.30 still all decked out but not a sole to be seen. A road that has been re-chipped trouble is they didn't fix the dips and bumps first before doing the re-chipping

Try this http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/27444-vehicle-importing/?hl=%2Bimporting+%2Bcars+%2Bfrom+%2Bjapan it has been discussed many times.

this help http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/partxref?q=64319216590

Have you had a look at the electrical connector to the throttle potentiometer heard these can course problems like yours

Use the last seven digits of the vin number in a bmw decoder and it should give you the spec's for your car or just look for a part number on the front struts and that will tell you what the suspension type is http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog or http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do. If stuck might be able to help with a few parts ie engine cover etc left over from engine conversion I did best of luck with the sale.

Fair comment do some research and learn from what others who have gone through this process on their e39s and some will turn out OK others have had problems. All I was trying to do was to make you aware that it is not as simple and inexpensive as some would have you believe to do this job correctly and achieve a good sustainable out come. Their are from memory some three standard e39 suspension set ups for the six cylinder models standard, M sport 1, M sport 2 their is a difference in spring tension and ride height plus strut set up after that their are the coil overs etc but these have to be certified so extra cost. The m sport I believe is some 20mm lower gives a harder ride etc other member on here are more experienced with the geometry side of things and could explain it to you.

These showed up thought they might be of interest http://www.msn.com/en-nz/motoring/news/car-logo-origins-from-the-ferrari-horse-to-the-lamborghini-bull/ar-BBoqkbr?li=AAaeXZ http://www.msn.com/en-nz/motoring/news/smart-car-bmw%E2%80%99s-vision-of-tomorrow%E2%80%99s-high-tech-car/ss-AAgqHlj#image=1 http://www.msn.com/en-nz/motoring/news/smart-car-bmw%E2%80%99s-vision-of-tomorrow%E2%80%99s-high-tech-car/ss-AAgqHlj#image=1

First how deep are your pockets? you need to considered the whole suspension set up in your car not just messing with the springs or struts to lower it for the looks. When one item in the set up is altered it places extra load on every other component and then thing start to come unstuck for one the handling goes out the window, tyre rubbing steering geo needs to be altered and set up by some one that knows what they are doing $$$$$$$ etc all for what. Bit of a rant but be very careful and think it through before you go down that path best of luck.

Glenn has said it all their is no cheap certain way out of your problem. Their are two ways I can see of tackling this retain the n46 motor (shudder) remove the radiator and get it professionally flushed clean. Then get some access to the cooling channels in the block and flush them check the condition of your water pump, thermostat, expansion tank, heater core basically the whole cooling system needs to be inspected as it could course the rubber parts to loose their integrate. Then you can start on the transmission head ach as Glenn pointed out the clutch packs, brake bands even some rubber components may have dissolved. A complete strip down and clean will be needed then a rebuild undertaken $$$$$$ will be spent. A bit of research of a rebuild versus a second hand box with warranty might give you an idea nothing certain. Oh don't forget to get the torque converter checked or replaced. Finally you can look at a different system for cooling the trans oil so you don't get a repeat of your current situation. Also you mentioned you had more work to do on the motor as well. Factor that in and other work you will do on the motor in the future a sure thing. The second as I understand is you have a parts car bring that in to play and see what you can use from it to help you out. Even if it meant an engine and gearbox swap you would then know what condition the items used were in and be able to compare this against that to see which would be the most cost effect way to go. Long winded I know but you are not going to solve this one with a snap of you're fingers sorry.

Reading your post it sounds like you have not removed a trans before correct /incorrect? As you have found the exhaust needs to come off then the main heat shield a few 8mm speed screws from memory. This will give you access to the drive shaft centre bearing and greater ease to remove the drive shaft end from the diff.These torex bolts can be bloody tight make sure the socket or spanner you use is a good fit and square on to them before applying pressure. It might even require one to place a bar or such in the universal joint and get it so it locks against the car floor to assist with the loosing of these bolts. Once you have the trans and torque converter out what was your plan to get these flushed out properly first time round?.

All that love and care an it still goes and does the dirty is this any help http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E46-Touring/Europe/318i-N46/apr2004/browse/radiator/oil_cooling_automatic_gearbox_a5s_r/ this is going to hurt $$$ wise no matter what. Depending on what is found maybe a manual conversion and engine transplant could be a thought to compare dollar wise.

Great to hear you got this sorted finally Bernie. But it high lights yet again the risks one takes in trying to self diagnose a modern car packed full of electronic stuff. As Grant posted very diplomatic I feel and Glenn has been saying for years "get it scanned' rings true every time plus the PM graham sent you. Nobody on here likes to see these problems escalate and cost more $$$ and time than need be hence we help one another as best we can. Enough said go and enjoy driving you car 2 cents worth.

Hello, have replaced this item on my e46 some time back and obtained the part from Pelican in the states. They asked me if it was for a left hand or right hand drive vehicle so they are different luck must have been on my side and they had one for a right hand drive approx $82.00 US about $122 NZ. Try this part number and see how you get on 51718159292 if nothing else will give you a cost comparison but the shipping might kill it now plus the low exchange rate around 66 I think doesn't help. They are an easy D.I.Y to do and google is a big help so a few more $$$$ saved and you get work experience on your car best of luck.