allan

Does anyone have the spec's for the E36 models ie. wheel base, kerb weight, tank capacity, bhp, torque, suspension set up or a suitable web site with this info. Thank you Allan.

Well well every model has it's day move over E30, E36 it's the E39's time chuckling as he hit the key's just a couple more that caught my eye If I may be so bold and those interested in this model http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=299759120

Well spill the beans how was the concert???.

Thanks Ian that is about the weight of an average person then 80kg's. If you can remove that amount of weight from a e34 by a trans swap. It begs the question is how much more weight could be removed with out compromising the ride/handling quality and road noise factor not only e34's but any BMW model for that fact. The ability for the car to rev out easier do you feel is due to the flywheel/trans set up, engine work you did or the sheer thrill now it's a manual and I'm going for it?. How do you find the gear spacings, zero to red line 1st , second red line etc Would be very interested if you notice any change in your fuel consumption either way? Happy miles ahead and well done once again

Welcome to the changing economic face 21st century NZ . It doesn't matter who is in power the two main party's both have stuffed the NZ citizen around in one form or another with their ideas of what is right for NZ. The slow transformation of New Zealand from a totally social dependent country( government takes care of you through social welfare) to a ever increasing user pay's situation is still on going to this day along with all the other world wide issues this country will experience (World recession). This government rightly or wrongly is only trying to balance the books in their eyes . It is a bitter pill to swallow as you tighten your belt repeatedly just to stay in the same spot or go backward a few steps on the economic ladder of life so to speak. As for specific issues Acc/ car rego, GST rates E.T.S yes each has to be administered carefully to obtain the best value from each tax payers dollars. This in most cases hurts as your income is squeezed tighter with every increase and a rise in your income is not necessarily the answer as this only fuels the inflation spiral. It is a complex situation and brainier people than I have struggled with it and still have not found an answer to satisfy every body. If we are headed for a user pay's society I would like to see a far better/ fairer administration system put in place. To address the issues of distribution of the revenues gathered and the level at which each company and individual pays for their Acc, car reg, etc . A complex situation with no easy fit I feel but a fair bit of pain still to come oh that's life and on that note lets go for blat!!! haha.

Ian well done on the conversion, high's and lows for you. With the conversion to manual trans/ lightened flywheel etc what weight lose do you think you obtained?.

What happens when things go wrong with led's One taken apart Another thing I remember is what shape is the wiring connector on your present tail light set up?. The led type lights have a flat six pin where the earlier ones have a rectangular one and adapters are needed, they are not cheep from memory. So you may have to do some re-wiring if you don't wish to buy them the kit I bought contained the following just to give you an idea of what you will need, exclude the drill bit and screw driver. Thank you Glenn for the warning on the photo issue did not realize they were so large

Do you mean the amber tail light? if so sorry sold them some time back. Have all the parts from my old headlights still from when I upgrade them if you are interested, one item is u s though.

Hi Nick; In the end I did need the ballasts as the previous set I had got fried. What happens when things go wrong with these lights . Their is not much to them really one that I opened up to have a look at. Please resize your photos to about 800 X 600 and repost thanks

One other thing you may not be aware of is the seal required between the light unit and the mounting position. As water from the boot is channeled down over or near to these units. If they leak you get a boot full of water and blown tail lights so be careful with the fitment of your lights and the sealing gaskets. If the e39 is after 09/2000 I believe they were fitted with the Light control modules because of the l.e.d's and other things. Cheers Allan

Yes have changed my rear taillights from amber to clear but stayed with Hella mainly because they were the original manufacture for BMW and the quality is good. Need to be careful in what type you get some have ballast's to reduce the voltage so the LED's work correctly. But if your e39 is a later model with a LCM it will need to possibly be reprogrammed to except the new lights. Some of the earlier e39's require addition holes to be drilled to fit the later type lights also, just from my experience. As for the bumpers have tried many US firms which advertise bumpers but the biggest problem is they either don't go outside the US of A or are to expensive to ship as you have found out. Have you tried E-bay Aus saw one site with a M5 type for around $600 Aus with every thing fogs the works if that is what you are after. Let me know if you have any joy. Good Hunting Allan

John so true it's so easy to state the obvious with a statement like that

Ask Ray bought one off him last October around the forty mark from the the dealers about 180 from memory. Could you remove it and refit it with the damaged portion under the door scuff panel as a temper fix.

Hi Nickbawl yes I did from the dealer around the $450.00 and from a local garage wasn't much better but now after doing it can see why. It's like any thing if you have the right gear it's not difficult to do. Glen no I didn't I had it taken care of 6 months after I first bought her. It did have me going for awhile before this because their was another leak coming from the power steering reservoir the hose clip underneath was loose and the 'o" ring on the reservoir cap had been flattened by over tightening. The sealing section of the sump gasket was very brittle when we took if off it had cracked in two places not sure if we did it removing it or that was why the oil leak started. Now think of it the only problem we did have was those three trox bolts we found, no mention of any in the manual. The first two were hidden behind the exhaust mount bracket, third photo shows the bracket they were in behind it and the third was up the side almost a gearbox / bell housing bolt these held the rear of the sump in place.

Spent last Saturday dropping the pants on the 530 and replacing the sump gasket. A few weeks before had noticed some oil on the garage floor, bugger now whats given up the ghost. Put the car on stands and got underneath to have a look sure enough oil droplets on some sump bolts also the length of the sump and onto the auto sump pan muttering certain words to myself lowered the car down and sort the Bentley service manual. After having a read of the manual and what it involved thought what a mission but it had to be fixed. A couple of phone calls, one to order parts and the other to a mate who had just fitted a two pole hoist and all was set. various bolts, dip stick etc front view rear view sump This involved supporting the motor, dropping the sub-frame enough to remove the sump.Then cleaning every thing and reassemble, replace the sump gasket, "O" rings and sump plug washer doesn't it sound easy yeah right well it wasn't as bad as I had thought. This took us five and half hours so not to bad a effort even if I do say so myself.

After watching the video and reading your comments for me personnel no thank you have to agree with drift it and some of his comments. Don't get me wrong the work gone into the car was huge but in certain areas it just does not work for me, individual taste. To low. The mags do nothing for me. The way the tyres have been fitted make it look cheap and nasty. Would like to know how hard the ride is with the present suspension set up On a more positive note the motor sounds very nice and by the rubber left on the road it can get off its rear and dance. Cheers

Good, keep this discussion up as this is a bit of a sore point with me. But in the end as David mentioned the market will set the price or what ever someone is willing to pay for it in the end. Does anyone still have the add as it seems to have finished?.

This raises an interesting point I feel as David, Silver fox pointed out it may only have a value of $8000 or their about. Then why do the sellers of m5's or M3's no matter the model want such ridiculous price's for them.

E39Kiwi Touring not sure if this is what you are after but the E39 has two carbon activated filters, cabin filters.These are located under the bonnet by the windscreen one on either side of the motor. Purchased from Euro -Italian for around $50 each and from the s/dealers $81.57 each.

What sort of a budget do you have http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-290586134.htm or any of these http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/CategoryAt...amp;searchbar=1 plus any more that might be for private sale. The bmw range can be a little difficult to understand when first starting out but as you have found out talk to people who know their stuff ie Glenn and others on here and they will give you the info needed to steer you in the right direction. Quote "With no Bull and very little moo larr"! LOL

What type of xenon lights did you fit as this is very important for the quality of light required and other reasons you have stated. On one of the American bimmer sites ( E39) discussing this a wiring diagram for a resistor pack was displayed to get around the warning light problem you mentioned a better solution than cutting wires. It maybe of some help not hard to do I feel didn't strike that problem when I changed mine over.

It's just a E39 what else would you expect isn't technology/electronics great. Yeah right !

The US standard railroad gauge (distance between the rails) is 4 feet, 8.5 inches. That's an exceedingly odd number. Why was that gauge used? Because that's the way they built them in England, and English expatriates designed the US railroads. Why did the English build them like that? Because the first rail lines were built by the same people who built the pre-railroad tramways, and that's the gauge they used. Why did 'they' use that gauge then? Because the people who built the tramways used the same jigs and tools that they had used for building wagons, which used that wheel spacing. Why did the wagons have that particular odd wheel spacing? Well, if they tried to use any other spacing, the wagon wheels would break on some of the old, long distance roads in England , because that's the spacing of the wheel ruts. So who built those old rutted roads? Imperial Rome built the first long distance roads in Europe (including England) for their legions. Those roads have been used ever since. And the ruts in the roads? Roman war chariots formed the initial ruts, which everyone else had to match for fear of destroying their wagon wheels. Since the chariots were made for Imperial Rome, they were all alike in the matter of wheel spacing. Therefore, the United States standard railroad gauge of 4 feet, 8.5 inches is derived from the original specifications for an Imperial Roman war chariot. Bureaucracies live forever. So the next time you are handed a specification/procedure/process and wonder: 'What horse's ass came up with this?', you may be exactly right. Imperial Roman army chariots were made just wide enough to accommodate the rear ends of two war horses. (Two horses' asses.) Now, the twist to the story: When you see a Space Shuttle sitting on its launch pad, there are two big booster rockets attached to the sides of the main fuel tank. These are solid rocket boosters, or SRBs. The SRBs are made by Thiokol at their factory in Utah. The engineers who designed the SRBs would have preferred to make them a bit fatter, but the SRBs had to be shipped by train from the factory to the launch site. The railroad line from the factory happens to run through a tunnel in the mountains, and the SRBs had to fit through that tunnel. The tunnel is slightly wider than the railroad track, and the railroad track, as you now know, is about as wide as two horses' behinds. So, a major Space Shuttle design feature of what is arguably the world's most advanced transportation system was determined over two thousand years ago by the width of a horse's ass. And you thought being a horse's ass wasn't important? Ancient horse's asses control almost everything... and CURRENT Horses Asses are controlling everything else ! Cheers

Hello Aucklanders would someone be able to check out a ti for me on the Nth shore. It is at Drive n Save Cars Ltd 69 Wairau Rd, Glenfeild it is a 99 318ti m-sport CTP616 in blue. As I am 6hrs driving time a little bit of a haul so hence the request Thank you Allan

This seems to need a password to view do you have one please?