allan

Would agree on the diesel note have a chat to Paul, Kiwi 535 he has a manual 5 speed diesel goes well.

mmm is a tricky one all of us would like to support the NZ market I feel in one way or another. BUT and their always will be one do your research and see what the prices, freight and time span are first to see what you can afford, wait for or are willing to pay for the items. From my own experience the BMW dealers prices have not compared well with other NZ company's or the over seas company's dealing in the same product lines even with the discounts given i.e. BMW car club member, warranties etc.

Hi Greg; The shroud cost $43.50 US when the xchange rate was at 86 something. It came with the pump, thermostat/housing,pulleys, both belts plus a couple of little plastic rivets $425 odd NZ. Got them from Pelican parts even with the freight charge was still cheeper than I could get them here in NZ sorry to say. That must be some good glue as I tried a couple of different types all to no avail. From what I have read that 120,000km mark seems to be when thing in the cooling department start to fall apart. Best of luck in getting it sorted. Allan

] Put my head on the block and say that the electric heating component in the housing is failing. Mine was doing the same thing in town temp down a little on gauge but on the highway dropped way down. After replacing the thermostat/ housing combination, water pump with steel impellor, tensioner, idler pulley and new belts it was as quiet as a grave yard under the bonnet and the temperature gauge was back up on 12 o'clock. The idler pulley and tensioner pulley had been getting louder for some time so the whole lot got replaced in one go. If you do this your self be carefully with the little tab that locks the expansion tank/ bleed screw thinge in place they brake off with out to much force, cost me a new fan shroud.The fan is a little fiddle but once you get the fan and shroud out of the way it is easy the fan nut is 32mm and left hand thread, hope that helps

Any idea how the e39 will be disposed of and what insurance company has it?

Is it not possible to take up the 32mm where the two half join, spline area of the drive shaft.

Could be along the same lines.

Thank you mark, should have known but didn't think that they were that large.

Could some one from admin please check settings etc for data up load tried to up load service sheets and it came up as failed check with admin on settings and permission etc Thank you Allan

Hi kevin, from memory the 100,000k is only an inspection 1, the next one 120,k is a inspect 2 these can be the costly ones. Not sure what service you have done on your e39 so far. Things that come to mind are cabin filters, air, oil, fuel, condition and age of brake fluid, Ph of coolant and antifreeze condition, drive belts A/c and main, tyres, brakes etc. Have some service sheets some were will dig them out and post up to give you an idea. Just keeping an eye and an ear on things while under the bonnet and around the car helps a lot. Best of luck just the joy of owning a beemer e39 haha!!

MMM!!!! well as stated the post by Dylan M3 on the m3 turns out to be one to walk away from, good work car detectives. The one Ari Gold posted seem's to be the genuine thing as I feel I may have seen it in the show room at Jeff Gray's in Wellington. The attempt at humor by others is taken in good measure but I still would like some one to answer my question please.

A wolf in sheeps clothing ready to bit the unweary buyer. With that said I still can not understand why people think they are worth so much it is after all only another car in the bmw range.

Sounds like you will get it sorted BMW are real good at throwing in many variable's in things like this. If you wish you can take the headlights apart and clean the outer covers etc. They do become yellowed with time and general road useage. But you will have some fun in the mean time haha welcome to owning a e39.

Best of luck as their are a number of different types for the e39. The 02 models I believe can be either halogen or Xenon, clear corned or amber, different indicator bulb set up, large base standard 21watt bulb, small base halogen bulb, Park lights or halo rings, face lift or non lift one so called sealed unit, later type the other not just to name a few of the differences I am aware of. Their is something you can do with the US light units to make them work but it is a bit hit and miss, I would not advice.. These are a WOF item and help you see at night so Stick with the correct parts and you should'nt have any problems even if it does cost you a few dollars more, piece of mind and all that.

Looks nice could do with some interior photos if you don't mind Cheers Allan

Do not give up so quickly, asked around farmers, friends, New Zealand forestry etc you never know what might come up. Have owned both a .22 and .222 the triple 2 I found to be a good all round fire arm also having a friend who used to reload his own .243 and 7mm ammo. We found that we could reload the following projectiles 45, 50, 55, 60, 72 grain bullets.The 45 and 50s were great on the rabbits, hares, oposums, mag pies while the 55 and 60's came in handy on goats and deer. A .22 bullet / .223 projectile The .223/.222 rounds travel around 3,000 to 3,200 ft a second from memory and have a flat trajectory making them very accurate for a reasonable distance. The licence side of things cannot comment but have heard it is more involved and costly which is not a bad thing considering what you a being aloud to own and use. Best of luck with your hunting

Some of the buildings are very interesting from an architecture view point but to much of a jungle wall to wall type living for me. On another point how badly was the area affected by Irene as it pasted through?

Glad to hear you have it all sorted finally. Thorough does not always have to be expensive! do it once and do it properly the first time can be cheeper than having several firms look at it and still not get it sorted. In running items on a motor vehicle which are out side what the manufacture has specified does increase the chance of problems occuring by putting extra loading on components which are not designed for it.

Look on the battery as your power storage unit and it needs to be in good nick obvious I know but so over looked at this time of year.Get the battery load tested and if OK have it re-charged correctly. Went through this same thing about 12 month ago and it was pain in the arse I never know if the car was going to start or not. Giving it a run to so call recharge the battery is only a stop gap measure because if the battery is your problem it will re-occur and drive you nuts.

Yes I believe that is correct for Finland but also you cannot get a full licence until you are 18 or older I think, correct me if wrong but you can start to learn around 15 or 16. If not part of the licence process already I feel that skid control and other such technic's should be part of your training for a full licence. The plus side is it is good fun in a control environment and you learn how you will react and the car does in these out of control situations.

Attend an advanced driver training session. This extereme weather maybe rare but it just shows how most drivers do not know how to drive in these conditions or prep their vehicle for it.

The mirror have been sold thanks

Now Now boys play nice others are watching !!!

mmmmm!!!!!! only if you don't turn the key.

These items are off my 2002 530i Standard E39 rear bumper with PDC colour co-ordinated clash strips comes with twin tips exhaust piece $200 M sport rear bumper clash strips x2 $50 Pair of exterior rear vision mirrors, memory capable, tinted anti glare glass wide angle strip, tilt when reverse selected, $135 One pair of Upper rear spring pads new still in packet 33-53-1-091-924 $10 One pair of Upper rear spring mounting plates/ guide supports $30 Pair of front seat plastic side covers hold seat switch's in place slightly damaged on one mounting point $20