Allanw

Once it logs a missfire code enough times, it shuts off that cylinder until a restart. Likely a coil or something related The thermostat code only comes up when the electrical heater in the thermostat goes open ciruit - you'll need to replace it either way, but a thermostat stuck open won't cause a thermostat code. Missfires can also be from oil leaking into the spark plugs holes, from the rocker cover gaskets, shorting the coil to ground sometimes. while you're in there, have a look - the gaskets don't last forever and are pretty common to leak anyway. Check the plugs too - a lot of kiwis are too tight to service things, and plugs stay in until they cause an issue (lease companies are classics for it!).

You can get a little tray to replace the rear cup holders (as they're crap anyway!). I'd wait for OEM lights, even if they cost more and are used. Fronts in OKish condition can be sent to http://www.clearlight.co.nz to make them shiney again before you fit them. I assume you already have Xenons?

My mum could do a better inspection for less money! Never seen an AA check that I'd have been happy paying for. They'll tell you it needs a service and how worn out the tyres are, but won't know what is likely to cause actual problems, or what common faults to look out for. When Dad got his E30 (15 years ago!) we had the pre-purchase done at Jerry Claytons in Takapuna - it was $99+ gst (I assume more now ), they gave a comprehensive list of faults, which was accurate and even approximate costs for repair, along with likely life left, and which were the most important to do. They also replaced a front indicator lens that had a crack in it for free! Only a BMW specialist (a good one) will know what to look for.

clearlight.co.nz was about $160 to $180 for the pair when I enquired about them. It was cheaper if you took the lights out. They polish and recoat them. When I managed a rental fleet, we had some blue cream from a car cleaning co., which you'd put on like car wax, leave for 10 minutes and polish off with a soft cloth. It didn't bring them up mint, but it got off the oxidization and made them look see-through - was about $90 a pot, but we probably used it on 100 pairs of lights. I also can't remember any details about it The new Halogens from Hella were $640 a pair when I did the group buy but Xenons were about $1800 a pair, with ballasts and everything. For prefaclift lights, new fronts are cheap and easy, for facelift, there are palces selling covers now, but they're not cheap - even though they look it - they have writing moulded into the front cover, which the Hella ones don't. If you want to do it kinda cheap, but are planning on keeping the car for a while, I'd do the clearlight thing - should last a few years at least. New Genuine BMW retrofit kits have been selling on German eBay pretty cheap - I eneded up with mine off a UK forum members for about $900 complete, and freighted. Comes with self elvelling retrofit, ballasts etc.

You forgot RX-7 and AMC Gremlin. I quite like them though - awesome 80's throwback.

You win some, you loose some :-) I got mine from Milland, it was a genuine one.

I'd put a new ignition switch in. They are a crappy switch, and they tend to cause issues like those - apparently trying the sun visor lights when the steering column isn't working can cause the column to work. You can get the switch for well under $200 (maybe $160 ish???). Our CD player was intermittant, and after an ignition switch change for something else, the cd palyer has been faultless. If it doesn't fix it, at least it's ruled out a common fault. I reckon a LOT of people over the years have spent a fortune on "Electrical Gremlins" that were potentially just ignition switches.

Hmmm... They still look like someone nailed the wrong bootlid on. The facelift front is an improvement though.

You have massive, heavy feet though! To be fair, it wouldn't take a genius to get better economy than you do . I know how oftern you buy tyres

BURN the firewood!

ALWAYS remove the filler plug BEFORE the drain plug! If you drain it, then can't fill it' you're a bit screwed!

Here you go Jeff: The Isetta 600 - it's like the Touring of Isetta's

Wrap it in red leather

Rocker cover gaskets.

You can get brand new lenses off eBay for about that, and they are easy to fit, but they are usually Depo brand, which have heaps of ugly writing moulded into the lens. Those are a pretty good deal, when you consider they have had the recoating process done, which is the right way to tidy them up (sanding removes ALL the protective coating from the polycarbonate). I think when I priced up having my originals done, it was $150 if I sent the lights, or $180 if I dropped off the car to them. I did a group buy a few years back for brand new facelift halogens from Hella NZ, for $640? all up. Then I sold mine to a guy in Aussie, because I got a NEW genuine BMW Xenon retrofit kit (headlights, ballasts, self levelling etc) for about $950 all up - didn't get stung for customs on them either!

Sweet - no adult nappies required! Maybe just a little squeaky moment at the start Then the sudden clench at the sight of smoke Awesome - glad it's turned out well. I've had that sinking "getting in over my head" feeling before, and the releif when you get out the other side is so immense! Well done

Impreza was 1.8A to 2.0M conversion, put am EJ18 in a Beetle... and the weird one is actually an EJ25... in my VW bus. The problem witht he M54 is CANBUS. It's not always a wire going somewhere, but a module may broadcast the signal on the databus, and other modules can pickup the data streaming around the palce. Like the internet

Are you going to be able to start it? You might need some diazepam first. Maybe a bottle of scotch too

I have no experience with BMW conversions like that... but give it a go... The thing with BMW's, is that there are a lot of clever cookies out there who have "coded out" options and requirements. You just need to find the required signals and inputs and make them work. Some won't be required - like you won't have to make the radio volume change with increasing speed I could help more if it were Subaru... here's 2 of my 3 past Subaru projects

I had that not long ago here in Whangarei, crossing SH1 on Maunu Road. We all drove off with a green light, and a car shot through the line of cars I was in... just!.... I looked across and there was a green for BOTH directions! *555 got a cop there REALLY fast!

That was a messerschmitt UBER-cool

Not pdf, but in Firefox, choose "File", "Save As" then as the file type choose "Web Page, Complete" = you have to do it for each page though. It's saves it with all photos etc for referencing later. It'll be saved as a HTML page, and a Folder witht he same name, with all the files in it. PDF's are PAINFULL.

If an E39 temp gauge ever moves above 12 o'clock, the engine is VERY hot. The gauge will sit at normal until at LEAST 115C, probably higher though. Your V8 can run up to about 110C in "normal" conditions. I've never tried to test the high end, but I suspect "normal" will be displayed until about 120C. On the weekend I just set aja540i's OBC warning to go off at 120C, because it was factory defaulted to 130C!!! Very! Tidy.

Yeah... Make sure it's full of coolant when it's cold (like overnight cold) - leave the bonnet up for a while to coool it down faster. It could have a sticky thermostat, but the usually don't fail that way. 112C is pretty hot for an M54, though the OBC over heat warning doesn't come on until 120C or 125C on the petrols! I'm not 100% if the original thermostats had a 97C mechanical rating, or if it was initially higher and BMW changed them later. The V8's have a 105 or 110C mechanical rating. If you can, I'd do the radiator, thermostat, waterpump; in that order. The water pump is less likely an issue, but they can fail (though my original was absolutly fine when replaced at 125K, impellor 100% intact). The thrmostats are a different story - they don't usually cause overheating, but are pretty unreliable. Both the mechanical part and the electric heater for the Map Control Cooling. It's possible to convert them to a mechanical thermostat, but you probably don't want that expense as well. Had you monitored temps before the leak? Was it ever that high before? I'd be limiting driving as much as possible! M54's don't like overheats, and the headbolts can strip the threads in the block - requires a timesert fitted to each hole to replace the threads.