Allanw

Cheers Ron - Just did a Probike order this week - hadn't seen Wiggle. Also did a Torpedo7 order today, only because everything I wanted was on sale, and just cheap enough to bother with - the free freight meant it was similar price to overseas, instead of about 50% more! None of mine is as fancy as Campag - Mine is a commuter with "sensible" bit's and some Wacko bits - the cheap is slowly being replaced by "good" - only the frame will be original by the end of the month! And even that's getting painted this weekend

Hmmm... wierd - we have a '13 2.0 BiTurbo 4motion high roof, LWB Transporter that we ordered with DSG but (you'll like this!) VW couldn't do DSG with those options - we had to drop the high roof, the 4WD, or the DSG... we dropped the DSG! It pulls like a train up to about 130 (which I've never gone past in it!) and it had under 200 kms on it at that point, so would have still been plenty tight! It EATS the pants of our old Hiace 2.5 D4D (but that's not hard - I don't think Toyota has ever made a decent diseasel!). and is quicker than a Hilux too (excpet it fisrt, where it limits it's power output). On the second day we had it, driving back from Kaitaia, I overtook a logging truck in a place I'd have never even attempted it in the Hiace. I was in 4th gear, but could have used 3rd too. Then climbing a hill (heading south, into the northen side of Okaihau) where the Hiace was tapped out in 3rd gear (4 speed auto) the Transporter cruised up in 6th (just)! I could have still used 5th, 4th or 3rd too! I'm really impressed with it... but really wonder what a 3.0 version would be like

Just buy a chevy V8 petrol. It'll be a shitload faster, a shitload cheaper, and you'll probably never spend the difference in fuel costs running it. 40 knots should be sufficient

Yeah! I saw that before the badge... its probably a 316i auto too. I'm tempted to put an ///M badge on the 72 Beetle as a piss take I've got one that came off the 525i as soon as it arrived at my house.

I wish I could help, but it's a bit over my head! I know that some modules need to be coded differently, for another module to be able to perform as intended - as a made up example, the ABS/DSC module may need to be coded differently for cruise, or the GM needs to have a feature enabled. I wonder if the cruise is expecting to see something that isn't there, like the clutch switch as well as the brake switch? I know they have a clutch switch, but I think yours was originally auto wasn't it?

I really want the double glazing... just for the unusual factor... Must. Resist. Tempation. . . . Mrs. Would. Kill. Me. . . .

Talk to your certifier first - they need to be of a thickness which makes them strong enough, as they might say 15mm isn't thick enough, though I think 12mm was considered to be the limit. You also need enough thickness to fit in the bolts that hold them to the hub - I think the shortest heads usually need 17mm, though they MAY be able to be trimmed down a touch? They are available on Ebay - H&R sets are easy to get - I got mine from Germany : http://www.ebay.com/usr/blitzableiter82 for less than NZ$205 shipped for a pair. H&R are TUV approved in Germany I believe, so the specs can be given to the certifier to possibly save the hassle of them doing materials test etc (they may have to anyway though - I haven't fitted mine yet). Check the H&R part number though - the cheaper ones are spacers, the more expensive ones are adapters (or bolt on spacers) As long as they are hubcentric on you car and wheel, and are 20mm or less, the bolt through spacers are OK. The pattern change obviously requires the bolt on adapters. It was also craploads cheaper than locally, AND they weren't some chinese sh*t that possibly won't pass certification.

No... Blaze... some caught fire BEFORE they left the factory

I use Milland almost exclusively. (I've brought the odd part with an order of other stuff for the VW etc now and then). Pricing is good, speed is good, and he'll get me genuine parts cheaper than the dealer will give them to me, and order the right part (The dealer I called kept quoting the wrong part, and wouldn't listen to me!). I do buy a LOT of other stuff overseas. This week, I've probably spent $1K on bike parts for my commuter bike (which is a $75 Diamondback from 1996 ). Thing is, buying the bits here costs a fortune! For the same price as my local bike shop can supply no-name spokes and an "average" rim, I got DT spokes, Mavic Rim, a new chain and rear cluster... all shipped from the UK! Then just last night, the order I made was only $160 (the places I use in the UK all seem to charge a flat rate 8 pounds for shipping!), to get "similar" items here... I'd have to go to at least 3 different places AND pay more... Plus freight in NZ tends to be around $15 per order... or $16 from the UK for parts (including a new 26" rim!) BTW, UK shipping is always WAY cheaper than the US! Weirdly... (assuming we all know that the Prius is the "anticar", and a manual is a proper transmission)... my hybrid Human/Electric bike is soon to be fitted with a CVT trans

Cleaned Vomit off the leather...

Yeah, but you have to account for the suicide factor too!

Umm... Fronts are alloy - I made them from 10mm aluminium sheet. Rears are plastic - much easier. You can buy plastic sheet like nylon or polypropylene or silimar WAY easier than the alloy.

AMI have a good "Classic" policy, cheap and good coverage, as long as the car isn't in "Everyday Use" - ie weekend and special occasions etc The Model A is on it for $18K at $180ish per year My Cappuccino was on for around $10K for about $140 I think. I haven't had to claim on the classics, but I've had a home burglary claim, and a $3550 WIndscreen claim on a daily with no issues.

I see what you did there

I think it's only the Jap ones that have the Nav etc on the parcel tray area. The Euro spec stuff was in the cubby's on the side of the boot. I think. I don't have Nav. Maybe NZ is one of the few places where you buy a 100K car, then nip down to ITM to get some 100x100 posts, and 12 bags of concrete to build a shaded area to use while tending your crop?

http://www.xcar360.com???

According to the law, ALL spacers need to be certified, regardless of fitment type. Also, spacers need to be hubcentric and wheelcentric (if that's a word!). "adapters" or bolt on spacers as they get called sometimes, don't have to be (they can use tapered nuts) but they have to be (strong enough) and be tested/engineered to be so.

Nice! That was really smooth... Possibly felt more clenchworthy in the hotseat, but looked awesome!

Ummm... take the car elsewhere.

$$$

But why?

Most NZ cars seemed to have it, which is a bit weird when hardly any of the other options got ticked. I guess most sedans of the era had it, so they had to spcify it where they could, otherwise their new $100K car looked liked a cheapskate

Fixed.

Hmmm... have I got a deal for you... ORANGE is the new Calypso

People have cleaned them up , as a temporary thing... then left them in there. Ours has my wife and 2 kids in it most of the time, so I just wanted it right... I lose brownie points if things don't work properly . The thing with a used one (like anything), is you don't know how much work it's done... and low milage doesn't mean it hasn't switched a lot of times. Edit... Post 1500. Apparently I DO spend too much time on the computer... like SHE says.