Allanw

I really want the double glazing... just for the unusual factor... Must. Resist. Tempation. . . . Mrs. Would. Kill. Me. . . .

Talk to your certifier first - they need to be of a thickness which makes them strong enough, as they might say 15mm isn't thick enough, though I think 12mm was considered to be the limit. You also need enough thickness to fit in the bolts that hold them to the hub - I think the shortest heads usually need 17mm, though they MAY be able to be trimmed down a touch? They are available on Ebay - H&R sets are easy to get - I got mine from Germany : http://www.ebay.com/usr/blitzableiter82 for less than NZ$205 shipped for a pair. H&R are TUV approved in Germany I believe, so the specs can be given to the certifier to possibly save the hassle of them doing materials test etc (they may have to anyway though - I haven't fitted mine yet). Check the H&R part number though - the cheaper ones are spacers, the more expensive ones are adapters (or bolt on spacers) As long as they are hubcentric on you car and wheel, and are 20mm or less, the bolt through spacers are OK. The pattern change obviously requires the bolt on adapters. It was also craploads cheaper than locally, AND they weren't some chinese sh*t that possibly won't pass certification.

No... Blaze... some caught fire BEFORE they left the factory

I use Milland almost exclusively. (I've brought the odd part with an order of other stuff for the VW etc now and then). Pricing is good, speed is good, and he'll get me genuine parts cheaper than the dealer will give them to me, and order the right part (The dealer I called kept quoting the wrong part, and wouldn't listen to me!). I do buy a LOT of other stuff overseas. This week, I've probably spent $1K on bike parts for my commuter bike (which is a $75 Diamondback from 1996 ). Thing is, buying the bits here costs a fortune! For the same price as my local bike shop can supply no-name spokes and an "average" rim, I got DT spokes, Mavic Rim, a new chain and rear cluster... all shipped from the UK! Then just last night, the order I made was only $160 (the places I use in the UK all seem to charge a flat rate 8 pounds for shipping!), to get "similar" items here... I'd have to go to at least 3 different places AND pay more... Plus freight in NZ tends to be around $15 per order... or $16 from the UK for parts (including a new 26" rim!) BTW, UK shipping is always WAY cheaper than the US! Weirdly... (assuming we all know that the Prius is the "anticar", and a manual is a proper transmission)... my hybrid Human/Electric bike is soon to be fitted with a CVT trans

Cleaned Vomit off the leather...

Yeah, but you have to account for the suicide factor too!

Umm... Fronts are alloy - I made them from 10mm aluminium sheet. Rears are plastic - much easier. You can buy plastic sheet like nylon or polypropylene or silimar WAY easier than the alloy.

AMI have a good "Classic" policy, cheap and good coverage, as long as the car isn't in "Everyday Use" - ie weekend and special occasions etc The Model A is on it for $18K at $180ish per year My Cappuccino was on for around $10K for about $140 I think. I haven't had to claim on the classics, but I've had a home burglary claim, and a $3550 WIndscreen claim on a daily with no issues.

I see what you did there

I think it's only the Jap ones that have the Nav etc on the parcel tray area. The Euro spec stuff was in the cubby's on the side of the boot. I think. I don't have Nav. Maybe NZ is one of the few places where you buy a 100K car, then nip down to ITM to get some 100x100 posts, and 12 bags of concrete to build a shaded area to use while tending your crop?

http://www.xcar360.com???

According to the law, ALL spacers need to be certified, regardless of fitment type. Also, spacers need to be hubcentric and wheelcentric (if that's a word!). "adapters" or bolt on spacers as they get called sometimes, don't have to be (they can use tapered nuts) but they have to be (strong enough) and be tested/engineered to be so.

Nice! That was really smooth... Possibly felt more clenchworthy in the hotseat, but looked awesome!

Ummm... take the car elsewhere.

$$$

But why?

Most NZ cars seemed to have it, which is a bit weird when hardly any of the other options got ticked. I guess most sedans of the era had it, so they had to spcify it where they could, otherwise their new $100K car looked liked a cheapskate

Fixed.

Hmmm... have I got a deal for you... ORANGE is the new Calypso

People have cleaned them up , as a temporary thing... then left them in there. Ours has my wife and 2 kids in it most of the time, so I just wanted it right... I lose brownie points if things don't work properly . The thing with a used one (like anything), is you don't know how much work it's done... and low milage doesn't mean it hasn't switched a lot of times. Edit... Post 1500. Apparently I DO spend too much time on the computer... like SHE says.

Possibly won't last 14 years though, like the last one in our car

Be careful with an "ON" switch - if you forget and leave it on, the fans can burn out - they often have a duty cycle rating.

That thing had a LOT spent on it. There's probably $15K of engine, depending on the parts used.

If the chain snapped, oil changes are unlikely to have helped... especially if the "fault" was fixed after 10/2010. Chains aren't like they used to be - they used to be a leave 'em alone type thing... they've gotten thinner, smaller and most became single row a looooong time ago. Nowadays, some aren't as reliable as a belt. The M62 V8 tensioners aren't too flash, and the Alloytec Holden motors have had stretching chains, resulting in jumped teeth - usually doesn't lunch anything, they just stop when the timing gets too far off. Was at the Neighbours a while back, discussing that about a 2007 Commodore... with 80K on it

Nigel?