Allanw

You win some, you loose some :-) I got mine from Milland, it was a genuine one.

I'd put a new ignition switch in. They are a crappy switch, and they tend to cause issues like those - apparently trying the sun visor lights when the steering column isn't working can cause the column to work. You can get the switch for well under $200 (maybe $160 ish???). Our CD player was intermittant, and after an ignition switch change for something else, the cd palyer has been faultless. If it doesn't fix it, at least it's ruled out a common fault. I reckon a LOT of people over the years have spent a fortune on "Electrical Gremlins" that were potentially just ignition switches.

Hmmm... They still look like someone nailed the wrong bootlid on. The facelift front is an improvement though.

You have massive, heavy feet though! To be fair, it wouldn't take a genius to get better economy than you do . I know how oftern you buy tyres

BURN the firewood!

ALWAYS remove the filler plug BEFORE the drain plug! If you drain it, then can't fill it' you're a bit screwed!

Here you go Jeff: The Isetta 600 - it's like the Touring of Isetta's

Wrap it in red leather

Rocker cover gaskets.

You can get brand new lenses off eBay for about that, and they are easy to fit, but they are usually Depo brand, which have heaps of ugly writing moulded into the lens. Those are a pretty good deal, when you consider they have had the recoating process done, which is the right way to tidy them up (sanding removes ALL the protective coating from the polycarbonate). I think when I priced up having my originals done, it was $150 if I sent the lights, or $180 if I dropped off the car to them. I did a group buy a few years back for brand new facelift halogens from Hella NZ, for $640? all up. Then I sold mine to a guy in Aussie, because I got a NEW genuine BMW Xenon retrofit kit (headlights, ballasts, self levelling etc) for about $950 all up - didn't get stung for customs on them either!

Sweet - no adult nappies required! Maybe just a little squeaky moment at the start Then the sudden clench at the sight of smoke Awesome - glad it's turned out well. I've had that sinking "getting in over my head" feeling before, and the releif when you get out the other side is so immense! Well done

Impreza was 1.8A to 2.0M conversion, put am EJ18 in a Beetle... and the weird one is actually an EJ25... in my VW bus. The problem witht he M54 is CANBUS. It's not always a wire going somewhere, but a module may broadcast the signal on the databus, and other modules can pickup the data streaming around the palce. Like the internet

Are you going to be able to start it? You might need some diazepam first. Maybe a bottle of scotch too

I have no experience with BMW conversions like that... but give it a go... The thing with BMW's, is that there are a lot of clever cookies out there who have "coded out" options and requirements. You just need to find the required signals and inputs and make them work. Some won't be required - like you won't have to make the radio volume change with increasing speed I could help more if it were Subaru... here's 2 of my 3 past Subaru projects

I had that not long ago here in Whangarei, crossing SH1 on Maunu Road. We all drove off with a green light, and a car shot through the line of cars I was in... just!.... I looked across and there was a green for BOTH directions! *555 got a cop there REALLY fast!

That was a messerschmitt UBER-cool

Not pdf, but in Firefox, choose "File", "Save As" then as the file type choose "Web Page, Complete" = you have to do it for each page though. It's saves it with all photos etc for referencing later. It'll be saved as a HTML page, and a Folder witht he same name, with all the files in it. PDF's are PAINFULL.

If an E39 temp gauge ever moves above 12 o'clock, the engine is VERY hot. The gauge will sit at normal until at LEAST 115C, probably higher though. Your V8 can run up to about 110C in "normal" conditions. I've never tried to test the high end, but I suspect "normal" will be displayed until about 120C. On the weekend I just set aja540i's OBC warning to go off at 120C, because it was factory defaulted to 130C!!! Very! Tidy.

Yeah... Make sure it's full of coolant when it's cold (like overnight cold) - leave the bonnet up for a while to coool it down faster. It could have a sticky thermostat, but the usually don't fail that way. 112C is pretty hot for an M54, though the OBC over heat warning doesn't come on until 120C or 125C on the petrols! I'm not 100% if the original thermostats had a 97C mechanical rating, or if it was initially higher and BMW changed them later. The V8's have a 105 or 110C mechanical rating. If you can, I'd do the radiator, thermostat, waterpump; in that order. The water pump is less likely an issue, but they can fail (though my original was absolutly fine when replaced at 125K, impellor 100% intact). The thrmostats are a different story - they don't usually cause overheating, but are pretty unreliable. Both the mechanical part and the electric heater for the Map Control Cooling. It's possible to convert them to a mechanical thermostat, but you probably don't want that expense as well. Had you monitored temps before the leak? Was it ever that high before? I'd be limiting driving as much as possible! M54's don't like overheats, and the headbolts can strip the threads in the block - requires a timesert fitted to each hole to replace the threads.

We'll be in the Kombi anyway... I meant have YOURS up and running... We're going to the Zoo on Friday, so I could probably give you until then. aja540i on here wants to supercharge his 540i Touring. He's coming to the zoo too

I wouldn't bother with a used ignition switch - they're pretty crappy, and new is about $180 I think.

I'll see you tomorrow about 2PM. Have it ready please.

Bummer... I just recalled there were some. I'm of no help then

Didn't someone have a set is the classified, and were splitting them???