Allanw

A few years back, I managed a family rental fleet of about 120 vehicles. We mostly had Nissans, because they were BLAND, reliable, cheap to fix/maintain. They were mostly late 90's early 2000's. They were always well rust proofed (some were seriously shocking too - especially the bare bones models). For that money, with the big boot requirement, look for a Nissan Avenir (Ugly as sin, but MASSIVE boot) or a Primera. With the Avenir, get a proper passenger one, NOT a cargo one. The cargo ones have no sway bars etc and handle like a 3 legged cow. They are SR18 or SR20 powered - check for sludgy oil or hard crusty deposits under the rocker cover and camshaft wear as a result (they can seize and snap camshaft from lack of oil changes). We avoided the CVT's for the reasons you say, but had no proof they were dodgy. We recently got rid of a number of fleet cars at the DHB I now worked at. The CVT primera (the newer weird shaped ones) seemed to have been very reliable (no actual failures, but some were a touch "surgy" under light load moving off). Apparently Hyundai autos are very average, and the Getz autos crap out ALL the time - we only had them (probably 20 or 30 of them) for a couple of years. The Primera CVT is a bit average in performance, not quite as quick to adjust as the honda ones, but they still go very well. The thing with autos, is that even a good one can crap out any time you can't really ever be 100% as to their condition... buy a manual

I prolly would have grabbed it at $1400 too Then spend $5K making it right, plus working out how to do a manual conversion on it

Will it be relisted AGAIN with another $200 on top??? There's a pattern forming!

I actually looked for a WH series II (2001+) Caprice for the Mrs before the E39... I like 'em (I know they're a bit tractorish, but damn comfy!). She said it was hideous and old manish I didn't see a problem with that, but she said no way ... The LWB and different body style makes them look really different to a normal commodore.

An actual cooper? and you sold it? Fool! Never owned one, but my sister did - have a bit of a soft spot for them (as long as I don't have to get my ginormic hands in the engine bay!)

It's been knwon to bring radios back to life on the UK E39 forum though.

NICE. I thought I saw a speck of dust there for a minute..... ..... it was just on my screen though.

Some new subdivisions have section so small that you HAVE to have one of these, as you have to be able to turn around on the section (not supposed to reverse onto the road).

Go to Gilmours, or some other commercial food supplier - buy enough white vinegar to fill the block a couple of times (or submerge it). Leave to to sit for a month or so It gently removes rust with destroying anything important (take off the aluminium bits though straight white vinegar has been used in running Model A Fords as a cooling system cleaner a number of times. I know of a guy who runs it for a month, INSTEAD of coolant/water to clean it out, then flushes and refill with coolant. A lot of model A guys run with out coolant, so the rust can be nasty sometimes.

^WHS I think the E38 islike the E39 - fuses all oer the place!

I've been there... twice Not drinking enouugh water contributes... but they do take a while to build up, so it's not usuually on the day they arrive. I bet today you're drinking so much, you pee every 20 minutes

Our Ford is worth over 30 times what it cost in 1929

There's 2 sets on Trademe

Unless it's the Chris Amon edition

Maybe it actually belongs to his boyfriend?

OK... I have a fetish for tiny cars... my First was a Daihatsu Max 360... not long after turning 14 Can't find a pic of my actual car, but it's like this (mine was the earlier "small bumper" version though): Why "360"? they're 360cc two stroke 2 cylinder. 33HP too! To put it in scale.... I actually brought another one a few years ago, but it had been fiddled with too much for my liking - If I could find a mint one for not too much money, I'd get another.

Chic at the counter told me it was Penrite - was the same chic who tied to tell me that 10W40 was thicker than 5W-40 and would be required as the kms got up too though....

Since it's getting onto grasping at straws time, is the battery and earths etc in OK condition? Granted, it was on an old aircooled VW, but I had one I jump started with a flat battery - the battery was drawing so much current on charge, that it wouldn't rev past about 3500 due to spark break down. It was worse under laod, bt did it with no load. All Idid was fit a new battery, and away it went!

Should be 3.2: VIN WBSBG92090EA88129 Type code BG92 Type M3 (EUR) E series E36 (2) Series 3 Type COUPE Steering RL Doors 2 Engine S50 Displacement 3.20 Power 236 Drive HECK Transmission MECH Colour ESTORILBLAU METALLIC (335) Upholstery TEILLEDER W.N./SCHWARZ (N5SW) Prod.date 1996-02-26 Close Options Code Description (interface) Description (EPC) S243A AIRBAG FUER BEIFAHRER Airbag for front passenger S305A FERNBEDIENUNG F.ZENTRALVERIEGELUNG Remote control for central locking S428A WARNDREIECK Warning triangle and first aid kit S431A INNENSPIEGEL,AUTOMATISCH ABBLENDEND Interior mirror with automatic-dip S458A SITZVERSTELLUNG ELEKTR.FAHRER/BEIF. Electr. front seat adjustment S473A ARMAUFLAGE VORN Armrest front S498A KOPFSTUETZEN IM FOND Headrests mechanically adjustable, rear S534A KLIMAAUTOMATIK Automatic air conditioning S548A KILOMETERTACHO Kilometre speedo S554A BORDCOMPUTER On-board computer V with remote control S676A HIFI LAUTSPRECHERSYSTEM HiFi speaker system S687A RADIOVORBEREITUNG Radio preparation S710A M LEDERLENKRAD M sports steering wheel, multifunction S806A 3.BREMSLEUCHTE Third stoplamp S818A BATTERIEHAUPTSCHALTER Battery master switch Code Description (interface) Description (EPC) S925A VERSANDSCHUTZPAKET Dispatch protection pack

Have you already warned him about the ugly? Don't take the service history to mean it's well maintained - it could still have bodges or unrepaired faults - The dealer is only ever going to do the work the owner will pay for! He does need to be aware that they are a very complex car, and some of the repairs could be expensive. It may be very reliable, but a single major fault can cost a lot too. As long as he doesn't think it's going to be as cheap to run/maintain as a $15K Honda or Nissan, he might be OK. They have a LOT of goodies and systems that increase the possibilities of faults. For that kind of money, I'd be looking for an immaculate, low mileage, super tidy, well maintained E38 740i or 750i - I REALLY like how they look - before the 525i, I was seriously thinking about working out how to convert a late E38 728i Sport to manual trans

yep - especially the heater not going bit - classic air lock syptoms.

I'm not a brand whore, but I tend to buy brands I'm familiar with (you know; Sorny, Panaphonics etc). I guess Penrite is a brand I'm becoming familiar with. I have heard that you can get just about info info you want about their oil - they even have it listed on the Mercedes Bevo site for it's 229.5 rating - a lot of oils have the rating on the bottle, but aren't listed on the site. I certainly have no qualms about trying it.

I usually use the "correct" 0W-40 A3/B4 Edge that retails forjust under $100. I probably wouldn't get that for $20

They are.

I very rarely go to Supercheap or Ripco... I actually only went in to get the Edge, but saw the Penrite, so thought I'd try it. Certainly can't be assed getting any kind of card I usually get all my stuff from Partmaster, as the guys up here know what they talking about, and I get trade anyway. I needed a Castrol vendor (I thought) and Ripco is opposite the beers shop