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BreakMyWindow

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Everything posted by BreakMyWindow

  1. Feels waaaay better over dips and bumps. Definitely “tighter”
  2. And done! Didn’t do the steering linkages as they were ok but put a tear in one of the outer tierod balljoint boots 🤦‍♂️ Something to worry about next year. Hopefully get an alignment next week..
  3. Not my project so don’t really want to spill...
  4. Managed to conquer the rear axle today. Much like the lhs the shock and control arm balljoint were f’d. The lower swingarm balljoint was looser than the lhs one. Made a start on the front too. So far the lhs shock and control arm are f’d. The thrust arm balljoint and bush (x5 item swapped out 3 years ago) are fine, along with the drag link and tie rod ends still feel ok so may leave those and replace when actually needed. In the last pic I forgot to fit the strut mount bearing. Was a sign to finish up for the day. Hopefully wrapped up tomorrow.
  5. The fun actually began today. Thought I could do the entire rear axle but only managed to sort out one rear corner before getting too tired and over it. After 21years and 197k kms the larger control arm balljoint and the shock was F’d. The rest was actually ok but since I only ever want to do this sort of job once, may as well do it all. Hopefully get the other rear corner sorted tomorrow then on to the front, which I think is alot easier in terms of access to nuts and bolts.
  6. Bad aftermarket “tunes” as-well.
  7. Ah ok if shock/spring unit has play that’s a bit of a worry too. Yeah someone looking in behind wheel while it’s being wiggled should find the bastard easy enough.
  8. Take wheel off and remove the calliper. Just 2 bolts holding it on. Spin the disc and have a listen for grinding noises from wheel bearing. Could be the dust shield behind the disc. They get crusty and get a bit of play when the speed nut doesn’t secure it to the carrier fully.
  9. Not required so long as they’re aimed properly for wof. It’s just if you wanted to do it nice and properly then fit the auto leveling system.
  10. Seems like it's priced accordingly if you compare it to the E39 M5 up on tm for 40k. But the 40k price tag on the M5 is a.k.a my wife wants me to sell it asking price... ?
  11. Pretty sure in Europe if cars had xenons they needed automatic beam dip control hence to make it work nice and proper you'd want to retrofit the associated bits.
  12. @LemonHunter should be able to sort you out Kyu.
  13. Yeah i think the key to e60 and above era is a healthy battery.
  14. Yeah that looks like a good kit, mine didn't come with the VC gaskets though. Here's the kit i got : https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-DUAL-VANOS-O-Ring-Seal-Repair-Kit-E36-E39-E46-E53-E60-E83-E85-M52tu-M54-M56/121144809321?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 The Vanos job is actually a piece of piss on the m54, no need to disturb the static cam timing, plenty of how-to's out there. They key is to keep the new piston ring seals in some very warm water, but not boiling so that they expand enough to be able to fit on to the pistons.
  15. Used a kit i found on ebay. Had great reviews and was all good.
  16. Parked the M5 up for the arvo and gave one of these a workout. Still prefer much slower M5 though!
  17. Not quite, i think you need the levelling sensor setup that connects to the lower front control arm. Plenty of scrapped E39's around though to be able to find all the parts.
  18. Imagine how much of a head turner it would be if the last 3 letters of Ractis were to be re-arranged... ?
  19. Sold the Eisenmann mufflers to help fund the suspension refresh. Back to stock which is quite pleasant cruising around the city... getting old. Plan down the track is to fit headers and a tune. I think with stock mufflers it will have just the right amount of angry.
  20. Collected a bird with the front bumper. Fell in past the lower grill (clips broke) and was stuck behind the bumper and undertray. These ones are usually great at playing chicken on the roads but not today.
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