mark247

I had the heater on full, but i also had the fan on full.. I'll remember next time to keep the fan off.

No I haven't. I think I will try and find a place that will do this today. I'm not sure if this proves anything but, if I run the car until warm, and come back a while later and coolant system still has pressure... So it isn't loosing it at a fast rate. Doesn't smell and there is no white smoke when the engine is warm.

I have always run normal run-of-the-mill ATF in the getrags I've had and it's worked absolutely fine.

So I just put another engine in my car, after blowing the old one up. The engine was an m50b25 I got from a wrecker. It has 140,000km on it. We put it in with no hassles at all and blead the coolant system properly ( we think. ) I took the car for a drive with the new engine and the coolant went down a bit which wasnt surprising and I topped it up, this was within literally the first 10km of having had that engine in my car. Since then I have done around 300km, and today the coolant check comes up on the OBC. I check the coolant and it needed topping up at least 1litre or so. This kind of has me worried. Could of this been a big air lock? Is it using coolant? There are no leaks, and the oil looks as it should. Any ideas?

So kinda like a longer version of this

He's right. I once thought my front brakes were on fire there was so much smoke.

If ya got the money and the know-how just get an M50 and be done with it =P

I had one I would of given away but I'm pretty sure it was in a big sack of rubbish I took to the dump yesterday... sorry.

Yes i think I have, 320guy has one in his shed though that he might sell. Message him.

Underwood. I started in form 2 and was only there until the end of 4th form. My names Mark, had a twin brother Simon.

Strathallan... I was a founding student there...

30psi would make it move, shi----t.

Unplug your battery, cross the positive and the earth togeather and it should discharge the capacitors in the gearbox ECU or whatever, then connect the battery back together. Do that or just leave the battery disconnected for an hour or so. Happened the other day to my mate and that fixed it. DISCLAIMER: This could be a bad idea but it's worked for us before. Not my fault if car go boom boom.

Any engineering shop that sells nuts and bolts and tools and washers and all that sh*t should have one bro. Just call around. Should be ezpz to find

I got mine from Bay Engineers when i did my conversion. Just get a bearing which is sealed on both sides. Get the size from realoem.com

Oh, if you car is m52 already, the EWS could cause a few problems.. as I think Glen said before.

M50 would be way easier than M52 due to you needing a different loom, ecu, and a heap of other sh*t. Your gearbox, if you stay auto, would bolt up to either I believe, I did a little research. Manual conversion would be expensive, but if you do want to go manual it would be easier if you did it at the same time. I am not sure if the M50B20 ECU would work at the M50B25, it probably would but you would be better getting the correct one ( if you throw them over the fence at pick-a-part, they are free. Dont ask how i know this. ) Either that, or sell your car and get another. But that's the easy way out =P

yes he would but he stated he was considering either an m50 or m52 so I thought I'd just put it out there... M52 would be a lot more work and mooola. Would a m50b20 gearbox not bolt up to a m50b25?

Ah right. Didn't realise he would need a new trans etc. If he wants a m50b25 wiring loom, I have one here he can have for $10.

I had to put another m50 in my car last weekend. After everything, paying for another engine, hiring hoist, oil, etc etc, it cost around $1200. m52 would be more expensive due to needing a different ECU etc I believe.

If it's anything like a M20 then we may have to lift the engine to get the sump lower enough to slide it out with the oil pump, but the oil pump might come off by taking the bottom half of the sump off so we might not need a hoist. Subframe gets in the way ya see... might have to drop the subfame as well as lifting the engine to make room too, but I dunno, we would have to have a bit of a look. Will have a look on realoem.com

If you provide the parts and hire an engine hoist ( about $50 form hirequip for a weekend ) myself and my mate Troy ( 320guy on here ) could possibly do a cashie job for you. If we did it it would have to be this sunday or next weekend. PM me or text me on 0272336690. We could possibly have a look at the car before the weekend, even tonight, and tell you what parts you would need.

Pretty funny, that guy is obviously just taking the piss.

My e36 has done 190,000km and the right door card if stuffed. That's all. And it costs bugger all to get fixed I have been lead to believe.

Only stuff I'll really give away for free would be the wiring loom and engine mounts. Do you want them?