Driftit

Could have just said "Singapore" and I would have deleted the thread.

Hahaha. Yes I have no doubt just eliminated any chance of getting a good deal on it.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-206089067.htm Anybody know this car? Was thinking about checking it out. Wish it wasnt all the way down in Chch though.

Motor was definatly at TDC when I put the head back on. Head was set to correct markings and Valves fully closed (rockers had play) when I mated the head to the block. Turned the motor over by hand first to make sure that it didn't catch etc.. And marks line up every time. Have even made sure the rotor was aligned with the point for number 1 piston to get spark just in case that was out somehow. It must be a head gasket problem. Maybe even though I was reading the markings for it I ended up still putting it in upside down? Is that even possible with the dowls? And would it cause this problem? One more thing. When the motor was being cleaned out quite a bit of water filled up the bores. We made sure they were drained out though. Is it possible that the rings have rusted up or something?

Sorry Glenn. I seem to always be busy when you are not and vice versa. I did check the rockers though. Will still get you to come have a look at some stage.

Yeah we checked this on Sunday. But the timing is all correct. And the valves are closing. At first I thought it could have been because the rockers were too tight. But they have the correct amount of play as I tested it with a feeler gauge. Going to yank the head off and have a look under there. Doesn't take long on a facelift. Nice and easy plugs. Not like the PFL motors.

I had some dodgey eastern europeans come around to my house the other night to check out my sisters piece of crap Cynos. They quickly directed their attention to my E30's trying to make bullshit offers on them and checking them over. Until I told them to F off. Then tried to offer me $1500 for the Cynos after saying he would pay $2500 over the phone. Already has a bidder of $1800 on the Auction. This guy was just pure dodgey.

You wont get good night photos without an SLR. Pointnshoots have very limited ISO and shutterspeed settings. If any at all. Your also best to use a tripod or you will get a heap of blur.

Yes the head was bolted down in the correct order. With the three steps. Tourqe, 90deg, 90deg. etc..

I am putting it down to ether the head gasket incorrectly fitted. Although I am sure I did this correctly following the marks on the gasket or there is a problem with head itself (warped etc...) Timing is correct. We first thought I could be a couple of teeth off. But this was not the case. Plugs have been in and out a few times now.

Recently purchased a running M20B20 that had a blowen head gasket. The car was still running and started first shot every time. I purchased a second hand head from a car that was running fine. Idea being I would just get a Head set and put the new head on and go. It took me a while to blast all the caramel source out of the block due to oil and water mixing. Once clean I put the new head on. Plugged everything back in and set timing etc.. But she would not start. So I checked Spark, Fuel, Airflow meter, plugs, Timing marks (twice). Everything was fine. Relalised it was turning over far too freely. A compression check found that she has near none. Ranging from 50PSI to 90PSI over all 6 cyls. I have checked the lifter gaps which seem to be fine. Why else would there be a lack of compression over all 6 cyls?? Just seems odd that it is all of them.

Agree. Tiff annoys me to no end. But sh*t he can drive. Vicki was hot 10 years ago.

Sold. Cheers. Well I am struggling to find some space to work on all my cars. And I also require a tow car for the E30 series car. So putting up my 325 for sale. At this time the WOF and REG have expired as I have not been driving it. New ones will be sorted before sold. This car is a factory manual coupe. Not a conversion. It has also been in the bimmersport family for a while. It has seen some track days but has been well looked after. Some details LSD Manual Electric Windows and Sunroof Recaro M Seats Custom built dynoed Bilstein shocks. (less than 2000kms old) Custom full exhaust from manifold. 15X8 +0 Sport Maxx XXR 002's Brand new 205/50/15's Offset bushes Front Camber plates Brand new aftermarket radiator (dropped the temps quite a bit) Towbar HID facelift headlights EBC Yellow Brake Pads Was dynoed at 103rkw at ST HiTech. This dyno is known to give low readings! So thats impressive for a stock motor. Now there is one issue with the motor. One of the tappets is noisy. This is due to the camshaft being worn. A replacement camshaft will come with the car. There is no oil leaks or any other issues with this motor. I want $4500 for the car. Now there is also a second option. I have the following that can come with the car. 1990 M20B25 motor with Motronic 1.3 loom and ecu E36 M20B28 crank shaft E30 M20B20 Rods With these extras you can convert the car to a Motronic 1.3 system and build a M20B28 motor. The motor is from a 1990 E30 and is in very good nick. I want $5600 for this package and the car. Any interest ether PM me, text or phone me on 0211887733 Cheers Dan

Never happened to me.

Haha. Crack up. Didn't even look at the name to be honest. Didn't think that red was the original color.

Purchased my sister a dunger 1997 E36 316. It has a pretty tired body. The previous owner has treated the poor thing like sh*t. So I need a rear bumper and any clips needed to hold it on. This is the current one. And these little cap things. ( 3 of them) The color

Mullets came back as a Joke about 5 years ago.

Nice cars. But seen them being worked on. Hope you have deep pockets for servicing. Nearly have to pull them apart just to change the oil

The VR4 was one of the best ones in NZ. Heavily modified and not on a South Auckland budget. Sorry to hear about your woes already Erron. But Glenn and the boys will look after you.

Get a 320 and dump a 325 motor in it. There is your cheap runaround. Picked up a FL 325 motor the other day for $200.

As stated in other posts. The series guys run the tyres into the ground. As they grip best when no longer WOFable. I presume you are after 205/50/15's. And it is not a good idea to abuse the discount we get for non series people like I heard some doing for the genuine parts deal we no longer get. Want cheap bits. Join the series.

I use to work for the Microsoft Call Center. Support and in charge of MSDN (developers network). Working there for two years aged me by 4 years. Didn't help that I was there when MS decided they would release that awesome platform of theirs called Microsoft Millennium Edition. That product nearly made me go postal.

Went and had a look. Your typical repod car. Body looks ok. No dents or anything obvious that I could see on the outside. Was not able to drive it though as I was in a bit of a rush. Doesn't have the BMW TV or anything. Oh and BTW. A couple of mates have picked up bargins from repo cars. Of course these cars can have problems. They are not like a normal dealer. They just flick the cars on as fast as possible. You are allowed to have the cars fully checked. And if you were serious about buying why the heck would you not? And you will find they are not the only ones that bump up auctions using friends etc. Tardme is full of that sh*t.

Going to go drive it in an hour or so. Will report back. Although me mum could be pissed if I purchase the family's 11th car and 6th BMW. Why do you end up buying so many BMW's? I never had this problem with Nissans!

Horrible non genuine wheels and gross bodykit would put it under $15K. Especially when you look at the manual one listed above as a comparison.