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Everything posted by aja540i
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Stuck on a couple of extra hp!!
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Just watched this on you tube, fantastic!! Sorry i can't figure out how to put up the link from my tablet.
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Has it got any oil in it?
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If i read that right you haven't connected to the park light cicuit anywhere so i can't see why that would be overloading the fuse. Might pay to check all your lights, earths, switch etc and make sure there isnt another issue. Good luck, i hate chasing electrical gremlins!
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Lose the impact driver!! Proper torx socket and a half inch breaker bar should do it, extend the handle with a pipe if you need to. Plus, eat more weetbix, and remember righty tighty, lefty loosey!
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Needs to be a complete hid headlamp assembly, the reflectors are a different shape to suit hid bulbs. I failed a wof after doing a hid conversion because the ballasts were held in with cable ties and that wasnt "factory" even though i had the whole hid headlight units. I took it somewhere else and they gave it a wof.
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Probably best to see ADL, they should be able make and balance a new one, or modify something you take them and balance that up. I just had one shortened for my e21, was about $400 all up (including new centre bearing)
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Not 100 percent sure but i think the flywheel is different for the M10, i have a feeling if you swap the flywheel as well it may work but thats a lot of mucking araound!
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This, plus the govt fee for the cert plate is around 400 from memory!
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"Steel body panels" thats a rare beast indeed!
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You will probably have to connect the motor back up and move the window to a position where you can reach the bolts, unless you can remove the motor and move the window by hand.(Or just hotwire the motor off a battery to move the window!)
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Damn! If i hadnt just spent all my pocket money on a manual conversion i would be very keen! How much faster is your office now that its supercharged?
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The way i read the op, it is only shaking when the brakes are applied. If it was hub rings or wheels etc it would shake all the time, getting worse as speed increased. If its fine when the brakes are 'off' then it stands to reason the problem is with the brakes. I would go back to the supplier and try to swap them.
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Yes. They are!!I could be wrong but i think all the v8s have a common bolt pattern, so any box should fit, the coding seems to be the most challenging part!!
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You can test if they are warped with a dial indicator, or take them to a good brake place and get them machined anyway. If they are new you should be able to machine them once without making them too thin, but it may only fix them temporarily. When it happened to me it was a piss poor casting that had significantly different material thickness from one side of the casting to the other so when they heated up, they expanded unevenly and warped. Im not talking super hot either, i was driving up North towing an empty trailer at normal speeds! Good luck!!
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http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-730122573.htm
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You might get the one guy who knows they didnt make a 6 cylinder 316i, then you are up for a cert!! I wouldnt be surprised if you got away with it though!!
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Needs a cert for the power increase, but much easier if everything is factory!!
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M10b20 + 30 psi boost = much fun!! ( and empty pockets)
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Unlikely, but not impossible! I had the exact same thing on my vr4 a few years ago, brand new discs and pads (ebc) the rotors warped in less than 200km!! It was a shitty casting and as soon as they got warm they warped, i had them machined and they did it again so i binned them within 500km!!
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Not too sure on your motor but it would be 'normal' to put a tee in where the light sender is and run your gauge sender and switch off the tee.Might be a mission getting a tee with the right threads though ! Is it electric or mechanical? We used to have a lot of problems with the electric sender units and most guys ended up changing back to mechanical.
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I had similar led bulbs in a honda city turbo and it failed a wof because they werent bright enough!! Ok for indicators or side lights but brake lights you want to be seen!!!