KwS

if all else fails, a wet sand will likely take it off. The paint will need a good cut and polish afterwards though (but i suspect youll need that no matter what you do to get it off).

I just picked up a new car worth more than yours today, so its certainly not me "scraping together pennies". There is a difference between a good car and a liability. If the inspection reports are to be believed, your car is the latter. I wish the new owner the best of luck, and i hope he comes on here so we can help him get the car back to the standard it deserves, with the owner that it deserves. I will advise that if this is the attitude you intend to use on this forum, you might want to sign out and not come back. You wont be missed.

For every rubbish car for sale, there is always a sucker that will pay too much for it.

Looks great Dave, really makes me miss my E36.

its been on there for ages AFAIK. Aint selling any time soon.

Just do it right and buy Andy's 550it

The other problem is that your Atenza is modified. Its a huge risk for most dealers to take on modified cars, so you would need a niche dealer. Better off selling on TM.

over 20 years old and it doesnt matter what the car is, could be a 318i for all it matter.

Julian, Whats with the two injectors that look different from the rest?

Tidy R32s can be had for as low as 16K on tardme. Turbo Supras are shocking, still around 20K for a 20 year old one of them, and more if its manual.

If you ride like you troll on the internet, im not surprised people try to run you off the road. What i want to know, if they start to add RUC for electric cars, what happens to the likes of PHEV hybrids or electrics with a range extender? The PHEV charges via socket, but has a petrol engine if it needs more power at the wheels or the battery goes low. The electric with range extender has a petrol engine also but it is only used to charge the battery, not drive the wheels. Both have the ability to run for long periods on just electricity, but also use petrol.

they dont pay Road User Charges despite using the road..... yet everyone else that uses the road does.

care to explain?

i'd say its only because no one in the ugly round building in Wellington has clicked to this fact.

doesnt look "stance" to me...?

Fail. Should bash whoever changed from TV to Silver. Silver is so boring!

Ill place my bets on crank sensor. I know a few members up there have OBD2 scanners and Torque app, could be worth a try.

Could probably try Chem Couriers. They do all our DG stuff at work. NZ Couriers tends to too hard basket stuff when its market DG in my experience. They'll pick it up and then leave it in the depot a couple of days until you call and go WTF.

do your chain tensioner if you havent already. I thought a few noises i had were the vanos but they remained until i did the tensioner.

IIRC even GT1 can test the vanos to a degree, but all it really is is forcing the vanos to a certain position and making sure it stays there. Its really only testing the solenoids and maybe the piston seals. Keep in mind that BMW only made the solenoid seals replaceable, the actual vanos unit its self isnt meant to be serviceable, so the likelihood of BMW making a test to test the seals in the unit its self is slim. If its broke, bin it is their mantra. 3pedals, if you dont believe the advice you are being given, dont do your vanos seals. Simple.

Now you have. Rather an E36.

When i did the seals on my M52 and S50 vanos units, both ended up with smoother idle (the M52 idle was tragically lumpy when cold before i did the seals), and more down low power on the butt-ometer. Doing the anti rattle kit on the S50 also shut the unit up. There are PLENTY of reports of improvements on this forum from people that have done the vanos seals. First hand experience, not some random off over in the states. I got mine from Beisan, but i wont buy from them again. His response to me telling him his S50B30 guide is wrong was appalling, and i see he still has not updated the guide. Please be aware that if you are doing seals on an S50B30, there are inaccuracies in the Beisan guide. I made this thread in order to help anyone with the rebuild. http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/49996-diy-s50b30-vanos-rebuild-info/

its been sold at least once before since import, so it makes me wonder why it hasnt been complied until now.

wow thats dropped a fair bit. Its been on there for ages at about 14K. Lovely colour and spec. NZDM too.

Thats been for sale a couple of times now. Only really good for parts IMO, but it does have some good parts (interior, wheels, strut brace, intake, rear wing etc). Engine is only marginally better than an M52B28