KwS

tbh, imo there is very little if any need to bother doing a recode. Other than the idle being a little higher than a factory manual car, most people would never notice. After the idle valve clean, and with the lightweight flywheel the rev holding thing is barely noticeable.

my 323i E36 conversion holds revs a little bit before dropping. Ive just gotten used to it, in saying that i also have a M20 flywheel, and i imagine the dual mass would be terrible at holding revs anyway. Cleaning my idle controller made a big difference too. I have bulb removed, trans comp still in place.

its shocking. Now im accountable for what my stupid flatmates do on the interwebs.... Thanks to the politicians that dont even remotely understand those personal computational devices, or the interwebnets.

Going up and down the hills in johnsonville on the way home was damn near terrifying in the E36... not something im keen on doing again in a hurry. Although it was kinda awesome wheel spinning my way up hills at 1/4 throttle... too much torque at low RPM damnit!

Oh what i would give to drive a real F40

Pretty good over here in Johnsonville

Yup, knew my E36 was missing something.... a dirty great v8!

works fine for me...?

As i found out, the allen key can also be used for opening/closing the sunroof in the event of failure. In the E36 you pop the panel off behind the map lights, and you can stick the key into the sunroof gearbox. In terms of the E34 kit, the only reference i can find to anything being in that empty spot on the top one is this image. i still dont know what is there

That jalopnik article is a bit average. The real story and pictures are on the forum link, its a pretty interesting read. http://maxbimmer.com/forums/showthread.php...light=abandoned

saw this on TM and immediately thought of posting it here but was sadly beaten lol. I quite simply want to fire it off a cliff and have it explode and burn to ashes, its a disgrace to all E36s.

Got a box handed to me at work today. 5 days from the US, pretty good shipping tbh. Definitely rate pelicanparts. Enough parts to rebuild my shifter (except the selector rod and alloy arm, they are on their way), a fire extinguisher mount (to stop it from floating around the rear passenger footwell), a new roundel and a jacking pad. WWOOOO.

Oh hell those 18" LM reps would love tasty on my car...

remove door trim, see what its connected to, win.

i know what i REALLY truely want this forum to do differently.... Please oh please get rid of the threaded mode, its a PITA. >_< You disable it, and then all of a sudden itll just randomly come back.

Bastard! sh*t load of car for the money, just needs a decent tidy up and itll be mint. Sounds awesome, wanna steal that exhaust "good stereo" is a huge understatement if it still has what it had in it last time i saw it. Has an M3 box too, doesnt it?

I didn't sadly . ill keep about eye out tho

saw a fiji green sedan on the motorway heading towards the hutt the other week.... certainly stands out!

Taken to PM.

Need the alloy upper arm, and the straight metal shift rod to suit a getrag (but i think the ZF shifter is the same anyway) to suit 6 cylinder E36. Im prepared to buy the whole shifter if need be, even if the bushes are poked. My 4 cylinder shifter setup has moved the shifter its self back too far. Edit, just checked the apparently i HAVE to use a getrag shifter. Nuts.

i'd be interested in the shift linkages if you would sell seperate?

i just want it so it remembers im logged in each time i visit >_< Other than that, i dont have an issue with it. Clean, easy to use, easy to navigate.

I havent fit the mesh yet, as im going to get the front lip first (around $118+gst iirc from the dealer), then take the bumper off and do the whole lot in one go. The ICV is a LOT easier than i expected. Heres the list of DIYs i followed, http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showp...mp;postcount=49 http://www.dvatp.com/bmw/diy/icv_ccv/ http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/f3/199...m52-icv-t41173/ The ICV is the silver thing below the rag stuffed in the manifold, in the first pic of the second link. You can also see the 3 bolts in that pic, and where the hose would join the ICV. It really is as easy as removing the intake, the 3 bolts where the dip stick tube mounts to the manifold, the electrical connector off the rear of it then pulling down on the hose that comes from it (you remove the hose from the rubber intake bend). Clean the crap out of it (i used carb cleaner) then refit. I also cleaned the TB with CRC electrical contact cleaner (didnt use carb cleaner as its too harsh).

had a little spare time today, so went ahead and cleaned my Idle Control Valve and throttle body. Removed TB from manifold, as it was easy, and meant i could clean both sides of the plate. Also helped give me space to remove the ICV. Was really surprised how easy it was to get the M52 ICV out, after reading how horrible the M50 ones are to get out. Couple of bolts, a hose, an electrical connector and just pull the ICV straight down off manifold. Whilst there i also debaffled my air filter box and cleaned my MAF. Car idles so smooth i thought i had stalled it a few times on the test drive after doing the work, and its also pulling harder at low RPM (still anemic in the higher rpm, need new exhaust and M50 manifold to fix that)

Bumper mesh arrived today, yay. Will sort that at some time soon. Those slats and the lack of lip are the only two things letting the looks of this down atm. Need to sort a lip, just no too sure how to go about mounting it. I hear self tapper work well....