KwS

Lh indicator is the correct way IMO.

Snow tyres still pass a wof if the tread depth is more than 4mm. They should be banned or "off-road only" as there is no reason for a road car to need them in NZ, yet I can walk passed the local 2shitcars dealer and spot a bunch with snow tyres.

Lol good flipping luck. I'm in the middle of a nightmare of a simple contents claim with AA atm and they are diabolical in how sh*t they're handling it. I'm at the point of laying a complaint with the ombudsman.

Or dickheads on cellphones in traffic ? Speeding is literally just the lowest hanging fruit. So easy to police.

Tbh the police will probably still use their own judgement anyway. They have always been able to ticket you for going over the limit, tolerance or not. If you're a couple of km over, driving normally and not in a sh*t box all over the road it's likely they will ignore you. If you fail the attitude test if they pull you over, no amount of tolerance was going to save you anyway. I'm not sure what it means for speed cameras though, as from what I've read it doesn't clarify if they still have a tolerance or not, just that officers don't.

Its an older model 60L unit from repco, filled with a mix of parts washer solvent from supercheap. It does the job, but tbh I dont use it as much as i should, I prefer to use brake cleaner for smaller jobs on the bench. The pump on the parts washer is too powerful and the jet of fluid ends up spraying everywhere when it hits the item youre trying to clean. Would be nice if i could adjust it down but there is no adjustment. A lot of people also recommend diesel or kero in parts washers, but I went for a biodegradable, non-flammable solution which may not work as well, but better than a big liquid bomb under my house.

Another thing that has bothered me since I got the Mini, was the horrible wind noise from the passengers window at speed. It needed fixing. At about 100kph, or lower if there was a decent crosswind, the passengers side door glass would emit a rather annoying sound. Obviously on a 700km or so trip home on the open road this started to get rather tiresome, but thankfully it wasn't there all the time, and you could drive around it to a degree by raising or lowering speed. The window was operating correctly, including the auto drop on the door opening, but still, there was a noise. A decent inspection, and comparison of the window to the drivers side one that didn't make a noise showed that the front of the door glass was sitting a couple of cm lower than it should be. Instead of seating up in the seal above the glass, it sat a good distance below it. That'd be a good place to start. Adjustment of the window glass sounds like a real pain, but in reality its a lot easier than expected. From what I had read, I thought that removing the door card to do the adjustment was the easiest way, but after failing to remove the door arm pad and access one of the door card screws (I swear someone has glued the pad to the door, it doesn't budge no matter how much I press the clip to release it) I tried another way. The official BMW way is to remove the waist moulding on the outside of the door and use a special tool to rotate the adjusters. Now, I don't have the tool (looks kinda like a C tool for adjusting platform adjustable suspension), but had heard you could use a screwdriver. Sure enough, I removed the trim with the window up and was greeted by the sight of the two adjuster wheels, right up in easy access. The adjuster is a large nut that secures the glass to the regulator, as seen in this photo Using a narrow flat blade and a hammer I tapped the adjuster around. Lefty loosey, righty tighty. With both adjusters slightly looser, but not loose enough that the glass moves around freely, I gave the front of the glass a yank upwards. This pulled the glass up slightly, whilst leaving the rear more or less where it was. After a few trials and tests, moving the glass up and down until it was just right, I used my hammer and screwdriver to tighten the adjuster wheels again. I got the glass so it sits firmly into the seal front to back, and still operates correctly. There is now no gap around the glass. There is a proper adjustment spec for this, which I think is measured with the glass at "open drop" but the door held closed against the latch, and should be 5mm from the lip of the window seal to the top edge of the glass. There are more details on other sites about this, but I chose to go with sight and feel instead, as it's an old car now and everything is getting a little more worn out that when it was new. You can see from the dirt mark that was previously behind the seal how far up the front of the glass has come The rear is about the same as it was You could previously see the top of the glass here, now it sits in the seal I gave the glass a thorough clean inside and out, and under the trim, and reassembled. A quick drive down the open road was promising, with no wind noise, but it was an intermittent issue so will need to do more testing, but I'm fairly sure that is what the issue was.

Finally, It looks like I might be coming to the end of fixing the previous owners neglect and bodges. When I first got the car and drove it home it shook like crazy under any acceleration. This turned out to mostly be the coil, leads and plugs that had done their dash. Once they were replaced the shaking got a lot better, except under a couple of conditions. The worst was when I'd pull out, foot flat, to pass another car around a bend. The whole car would vibrate, but this time there was no loss of power and the engine was pulling hard. It was something else, and I had my suspicions. One of the items on the PPI was the "RH Inner CV boot coming off". The previous owner took this as the need to replace the clamp on the boot, which he did before I collected the car. I noticed when I had the front subframe off that it was covered in grease, and the clamp the previous owner had fitted to the boot wasn't a CV boot clamp (a narrow thin metal strap) but instead a standard hose clamp. I guess it was working as the boot was still there, but everything in the vicinity was greasy. I decided to remove the hose clamp and fit a proper clamp, but thought I should check inside the CV joint and see how much grease was in it first. I slid the boot back, and nothing. A small smear of grease on the tripod, but otherwise it was running dry. The cup also appeared to show signs of discolouration from heat. Bollocks. Holding the inner CV cup in one hand, and twisting the axle or outer CV resulted in a defined click and visible movement in the inner CV. Double Bollocks. CVs do not like to run dry. It's the second quickest way to kill them. The first would be to replace the grease with grinding paste. Since I didn't have a spare joint or axle at hand I packed the joint with grease and refit the boot with a proper clamp, just in the hopes it might be a bit better and keep going. It wasn't better, but at least it didn't get worse. Since new inner CV joints aren't available a new RH axle was ordered from RockAuto. The axle arrived the other day and it was time to crack on and replace it. Car went up on Quickjacks, wheel was taken off and then the axle nut threw up the first battle. These are tight, and the staking on the nut needs to be straightened out to help spin it off. After some bashing and rattling, it gave way and we were on a roll. With the nut off I could already tell the splines were free in the hub, not rusted and seized like some. Winning. To get the outer CV out of the hub you will need to swing the hub outwards. To do this the lower ball joint and tie rod end need to be disconnected. This was easy to do since the ball joint was new, and the tie rod end recently disconnected. The PS fan and lower torque mount need to be removed to access the bolts that hold the hanger bearing in place Now the hanger bearing bolts can be attacked. Two are easy to get at (one partly loosened already in photo) with a ratcheting spanner, but the other (LH side of photo) is tucked up behind the axle with limited room. A ratcheting spanner is a must here, and it will eventually come out far enough to remove with your fingertips Next swing the hub outwards and slide the outer CV out of the hub and let it hang freely. Now it's just a case of pulling the shaft out of the gearbox. I gave the hanger bearing a couple of taps with a hammer and the axle slid right on out. No oil came out of the gearbox, but apparently, if the car isn't level it can leak once the shaft is removed. Wiggle the shaft out, spinning the hanger bearing to clear everything it tries to get stuck on Easy. Since the replacement shaft I got is aftermarket and not genuine, the hanger bearing housing will need to be transferred over. To the workbench we go. This housing is held in place with a large internal circlip Awesome, I thought, I can finally use the sweet circlip pliers I bought ages ago. They're rubbish. Too short and too floppy due to their design. Don't bother with interchangeable ones, just get a proper pair of single purpose pliers. Like these, which I had to run out and buy for this job And they worked a treat Before removing the housing I also needed to transfer over the little dust shield, so to stop that being damaged by the housing I used a hammer to carefully tap it off The hammer was once again employed to bash the housing off. It's a bit of a light press fit on the bearing, but will come off with some hitting in various places around the perimeter. Now it was time to build up the new shaft. Mmmmm, shiny. Refit the circlip first. Trust me, its a lot easier than doing it once you have hammered the housing onto the bearing. Then the housing goes on, as does the dust shield. Ensure the circlip is correctly seated in the groove. Its pretty decent quality considering it costs so little. The boots are all soft rubber, the splines are nicely cut, and the CV joints are all nice and tight. There is zero play when twisting the shift, unlike the old one. Refitting is simply a case of carefully slipping it back into place, making sure that the hanger bearing housing is rotated the correct way before slipping the shaft into the box. Ram it home, bolt the bearing into place, slip the outer CV into the hub, and reassemble everything else. The hub nut is about 180nm, so I got my favourite helper down into the garage to sit in the car and stomp on the brakes whilst I swung off the torque wrench. Stake the nut, and that part is done. Before fully reassembling I took the chance to fit a SuperPro insert into the lower torque mount. The mount was new, but it still felt a bit soft to me and there was some thumping when coming on and off the gas, or changing gears. SPF2426K These are just inserts that fill the voids in the standard mount. Easy to fit, just slip them into the mount and refit. The results of the work are all pretty immediate. The axle has completely removed the shuddering when accelerating, it is like a new car. I can push it as hard as I want around corners and nothing. The mount insert is also fairly obvious. The car feels a lot more direct and connected not. The gearshift is tighter, and the thumping has near enough gone. There is some vibration in the cabin at low RPM, but I think that was there beforehand. Well worth it for a simple upgrade. You could probably use it on an old, slightly torn, mount too. I'm very happy to finally be at the end of fixing the issues that the car should not have even had. Now I can enjoy the car without worrying it will shake its self to bits.

I prefer them over the ACS wheels tbh

Im pretty sure thats an RS badge from a Honda too, which doesnt mean Rally Sport, it means Road Sailing ?

Im sure thats been on here before

Everything torqued to spec whilst under load?

In regards to the throttle, have you tried enabling linear throttle? I found mine a ton nicer to drive with that turned on as the throttle was far easier to control and more predictable.

Inside and out, thats is a stunning car. Wish i had that sort of money.

I'd bet its like the idiots that comment F on Facebook posts to follow them. Commenting adds it to your watch list.

I wish bid bud would update their interface and bring it into this century, whilst not killing functionality.

For a street car and what you want from it I think stage 1+ is probably about where I'd stop. Higher than that and putting power down and being able to use and enjoy the power becomes a problem. There is no real way to properly use and enjoy stage 2+ without being on the strip or track, it just gets out of hand on the road.

I hate everything about the new search-centric layout. I used to enjoy browsing cars just by clicking the brand from a page of brands and seeing what was cool. Now I have to use filters to do the same thing. Even downloading photos from a listing is painful now.

They're probably one of my favourite oe msport wheels on the e9x Simple but nice

A lazy, stump pulling, motorway storming modified v8. Lower rpm peak hp and torque, and almost 200nm more torque at that. Hard to compare the alpina to a m5 imo.

Aa is useful because it doesn't cover the car, it covers the driver. I have three cars, plus drive other cars from time to time, and it's good to know no matter what I'm driving I can be recovered without having to pay for it per car, or worry if the car I'm in that day has it.

Basically a British car these days. All leak.

Family and friends, two people you never sell a car to. Shouldn't be hard to sell though.

Out of all the forums I'm on I don't think there are many that are as abrasive and toxic as this one. It's no wonder we have such low new member signup and retention.

Jesus, you'll argue about anything, won't you? Do what you gonna do OP. I'd be keen to see how well a leather repair kit works if you do try it.