thorburn

Thanks for the kind words Got the floor plates welded in and the tubes are in their final position On to the not so good news. Got a mate to clean up some of the engine parts. I forgot to tell him I was going to re-use the main bearings. So they got a treatment from the bead blaster. Probably is a good thing in the long run Other not so good news was getting a bit of steel in my eye the other day(even though I was wearing a full protective mask). Thought i'd got it out but this morning it made itself known. So spent the morning getting it dug out in the hospital.

This might give you an idea on value http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/...n-414451048.htm

Got some of it welded up. Was quite an experience. Some spots are a little poor but I wont be worrying about them. Learnt a few lessons like: -don't lean on bit's you've recently welded. -don't put the ground strap in a place that is likely to make you complete the circuit -it's worth spending the time to get notches perfect -if your shakey like me use whatever you can to lean on. Free handing sent me continually to resharpen the tungsten -coupes are dumb I shouldn't of put in a close up of one of the average welds but eh. Really enjoying it

Cheers. I've got an m50b25 block all ready. The bores are borderline ok for the pistons I currently have.

Unfortunately boring out an alloy block is a bit more involved as you need to fit new sleeves. I'd like to add some forced induction to it as well.

M50b20's are boring. Is the block the same as the m50b25 just with a smaller bore? Would it be suitable for boring to 84mm? I've been assuming it'll be fine. Thought I should check This is to put m54b30 gear into.

What's going to happen to the roof? I had a few moments today when I wished I had no roof

What do you make the headers from? stainless schedule 10? Looking forward to seeing what you come up with

Why did you choose to go low compression for the m50? I'm guessing with the amount of power you want your no longer going to be on pump gas. Is there anything special you need to do to the engine to get it running vertical? What gearbox are you going to use? Looks fun

Glad i'm not the only one. Just another one of those lessons that you have to pay for. Day 5 of working on the bars. I re-did the bars from day 3 because the twist was wrong. I cut the part that goes down the A pillar in half and re welded it with the correct twist. This piece was then used as a template for the new bars. I got this template idea from http://engineeredtoslide.com/ amazing ute build. Unfortunately I managed to muck up the drivers side when trying to mirror the passengers. That was again re-done. Here is the result that I am now happy with Sorry about the horrible photo. I'll need to buy some more steel after all of those stuff ups. Price so far has been -$600 ish on steel tubing -$75 on hole saws(this will probably go up as well) The heater will be removed at some stage. And the mess of wires in the corner will also get hacked into and cleaned up. On to the engine I got a second opinion from one of the tutors. Rings, main bearings and big end bearings are good. Bores look ok/questionable. Need to actually spend some time and properly measure them(i've really been putting this off).

Not a problem. Can't say if it will be the same for all pistons. There are a few things that are still a bit of a question for me -Will the m54b30 rings be ok in an iron block? -Will the expansion rate of the pistons be a problem? -What compression ratio will I have (and do i want)? The more I think about it the less I want to invest into it Atleast the last one i'll be able to work out before bolting down and starting it. Got back into the roll cage today. I've taken two steps back. The combination of myself and the notcher continues to ruin bars and hole saws. I personally think it has far too much play. I can't get repeatable cuts. Will probably also need a new windscreen because I didn't have it covered while the car next to me was cutting out a sunroof. Haven't had a look at the paint yet. If only I could go back and tell myself to buy the tools and do it at home. Whinge moan whinge moan Hopefully if all goes well tomorrow i'll achieve something and i'll get some more photos

What is going on with the cage? Why'd you bend the rear braces? What is it made from?

Cheers. Must've been a memorable moment I'm trying to get ahold of a decent camera. The gopro isn't quite getting the images i'm after. And I'm sick of the wide angle lens

dibs oil filter

Bottom of m50b25 piston diameter(largest diameter) 89.93-83.94mm Top of m50b25 skirt diameter M54b30 piston diameter 89.93-89.94mm. The whole skirt is all most the same diameter I'm guessing that the material the b30 pistons are made out of doesn't expand as much as the b25. There is more weight in the crank for the b30. The rods and pistons are also heavier all though they visibly look like less material Cheers. Seems to be the stuff that is reposted all over and was the first info that got me tempted into doing such a thing. Sure is. So far it does seem fine. Abit of carbon buildup. A lot better then the current m52 i've got. Triple and quadruple checks are still due before I'm set on the block. So far things are looking good.I'm sure there'll be an m50b20 block around if it isn't How many k's were on the engine if you can remember?

Love it. Must get better with CAD software. Would be so helpful for header designing. Do you have any photos of how close it is on the steering side?

Hybrid do you get preferential rates some how? I haven't got anything from the dealers in awhile after being put off earlier. Will have to have a try

Got one in Hamilton. Just need it until I buy some steel

That thing is scary. Hope he doesn't drive it like his other cars: m3ti Although from reading up on him he seems like a very good driver

I've all ways found it cheaper to get stuff from pelicanparts.I'll be need some other bits from there soon. Second is euroitalian

I'd just use the new tyres they aren't going to wear bugger all. Well i'm assuming things are pointing somewhat straight Those other wheels sound like an accident waiting to happen.

Would like to see pictures of how that turned out. Hope it isn't as dodgey as i'm picturing

And videos. Got any more info on the automatic controller

If your bottoming out your front shocks like what hybrid is hinting to, then stiffening the rear swaybar isn't going to fix the understeer problem. With the added force going to the front outside wheel the understeer might be even worse I'd test as shown in the cusco video. Might be a little more time consuming if you've got inverted shocks

If you stiffen up the front sway bar you'll get more understeer. Stiff rear gives you more oversteer