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Everything posted by bravo
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Yeah you need a big bugger. Go to a tool shop and buy the right size - get the type that fits on a ratchet driver - not the "L" shaped ones. Or buy a set. Forget the size - measure carefully, or someone else here may know offhand.
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Why not order different springs? You'll have a legal ride height and most likely better handling/spring rate.
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Dude - no one is going to pay more if you have euro plates for your standard rego #. Which is what most of us run. Why would I want to pay $500 or whatever to get my standard rego in wuro trim?? But $80 - hell yes. Makes the car look 1000% better for $80 outlay.
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800+GST is not ridiculous. Custom equal length are known to run for anything between 1200-2000+. We're talking properly designed jobs though. That said, I've seen some decent Alpinas on TM for around a grand too. (not equal length though).
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TBH it's much chaper to sell it and buy a 535 or even a 540. Think about it - a jap swap will run you 8k plus, and at least half that for another bmw motor swap depending on what one you go for. A 535 or 540 will probably not cost 8k more than your current car unless its a total POS which I'm pretty sure its not seeing as you don't really want to part with it. If you are set on a jap or other swap, then that's cool, but in a 5er I'd want something with some torque/displacement like 3.0L plus. Also, if you are going to spend say 8k on a jap swap, then the extra say $500-1000 to go for a more powerful motor like a decent v8 or large displacement s/c or turbo is not a big percentage. I guess what I'm saying is don't spend that kind of dosh for only a shade more power than a stock 535 or 540.
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The actual website. Translation into english is simply that it is where they store new cars. You go there to pick up your new car, they retrieve it and you get you photo taken with your new car and you drive it away. Apparently totally automated, but nothing on how.
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My take on it is thus: (1) There are better investments that have tax breaks. (2) The employer contribution will get absorbed by scaled pay rates (3) If you are buying your first house you can get it out. Too bad if you already have a house because you decided to scrimp and save and live at home instead of renting a nice city apartment and going out for coffee every 2 mins, and then buy a shithole to rent out so at least you've joined the property ladder. If that's you too bad. If on the other hand, you were too lazy to do that , and now you "fee like" buying a nice $300k home, then sweet - the govt will chuck you a handy grand. Ok I know a grand is f**k all, but its all counts. (4) There is bugger all choice in terms of investment options - so far I agree with Ollie that ASB seems to have the best range of options. (5) If you have a balanced investment strategy already, then the flexibility of being able to liquidate more or less when you want far out weighs the tiny contributions, esp. since a carefully setup portfolio will probably bring greater returns. HOWEVER, if you are new to investing, or don't earn in the top tax bracket then I think it is a great idea to force you to pay for your own retirement. and Finally, it could be a key part of a larger overall investment strategy. Its not all bad. Personally I'm opting out for now, but will jump on if I deem the tax breaks etc to be worth it. To clarify when you can retrieve the funds it is when you are 65. if you join the scheme and are over 60, then you have to wait 5 years. If you buy your first home and/or in certain other circumstances, you may be able to withdraw sooner.
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Done it several times unfused. The fuse is so if you cock it up and short something the fuse blows. Just don't cock it up. Ken - the other old git has one I believe.
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While we're back on this, what is the easiest way to backup assuming you don't have a RAID array? For instance, I have an external HDD I can backup to. I have a partitioned drive with Windows and Apps on the left and Data on the right. How can I most effectively (read easy and quickly) backup remembering if it is not quick/easy I probably won't.
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I'm sure. Just passing on the love.
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This is partly a "look at what I got! nananananaaaanaaa!" thread and partly a big ups/mad props/recommendation for the main guy behind H&R in NZ. Keith is not only the H&R importer for NZ, but also for Vogtland as well and he knows his springs. He has a wealth of knowledge and experience in the industry and has worked for other suspension crowds before going out on his own to bring in H&R. he's passionate about his product, and passionate about giving it to bimmersporters at a reduced rate. I know he is in talks regarding becoming an official sponsor for BS, but until then he told me he's happy to cut special deals on H&R and Vogtland to BS members anyway. He was very impressed with the positive and responsible attitude amongst the members he met at the Botany Motor Works BBQ, and that is the main reason why he's keen to help out our community. So get behind him and buy his product. I spent a fair bit of time chatting to him at the BBQ, then again at his house when I picked up my new springs. Its rare to meet someone so knowledgeable about their product and so keen to help and make sure everything is 100% right. Good stuff Keith, keep it up. My new prezzies: Rears in: I was much too lazy to do the fronts today, so will post up pics etc when done. I was looking for around a 20mm ride height increase in the rear and a zero increase in the front. I measured and got exactly 20mm in the rear and after settling maybe 15mm so pretty spot-on. Will see about the front. The other thing I have noticed already is that the coils sit much nicer on the H&Rs with the dead coils doing their job nicely and sitting tidly inside each other instead of the horrible coil bind I was getting (the coils on the old springs were shiny from regularly contacting each other.) A 20mm increase from current ride heght still equals a 45-50mm drop from stock for those wondering why I wanted to go up - 60mm+ drop just too much. You can contact Keith on 021378902. And tell him you're from bimmersport.
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The car audio crew recommend Optima. (See nzice forums)
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The aussie has voted. Black it is.
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Prolly my grandfather. Did he call you a blighter?
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Don't want them, but good choice of spring. Seeing as you have Vogtlands available as well I'll take a stab and say your supplier is Keith? Top bloke that man.
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Do you have stock rims/tyres? It is possible that the steering geometry one way is causing something to hit that doesn't happen the other. Emma experienced this running her under-spaced 17's and before I got my alignment done after bending the rims I had a tyre rubbing on the chassis rail on one side only at full lock.
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I've had them in there since the original post. Only needed them once. If you don't date school-age girls its never a problem.
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By kit do you mean gaskets etc? Then yes most likely. If not, or if you want new call Gavin at Euro-Italian in Auckland - 09-444-9817. can't recommend those guys enough.
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Carnt get front strut out on e30 Help please!
bravo replied to r0tary15's topic in Brakes, Suspension & Steering
He's talking about hitting the strut with the hammer - not the tie rod. The tie rod end bolt is tapered. Loosen the nut but leave the nut on so if you miss with the hammer you won't damage the thread. DO NOT hit the thead or the top of the bolt as you will bur the end and stuff it. Hit the strut wher the bolt goes through with a decent sized hammer as described above. Or do it propoerly and buy a tie rod end removal fork. -
There's a couple of guys in auckland who read these forums who will almost deinately have one. (thermostat housing) Andrew: do you want one??? (baby)
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Welcome. Congrats on the recent purchase. Hope you like our furniture.
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Didn't watch to the end. Supra was pwning.