_ethrty-Andy_

Geoff has a storage place, im sure thats where he means Im in Seaview every day, and there is no wash place that I am aware of. But my work is in Seaview too, you could do it there.

hmm a bit hard to guess its life. isn't slammed on ugly wheels so potentially not a thrashed to hell car. but the pod filter and not having the heater box hooked up are shortcuts, hopefully no shortcuts elsewhere. as with any E30 check for rust, not common, but pretty terminal if present. especially around rear taillights and in the storage compartments on each side in the boot. That car is very likely to be a New Zealand new based on the registration plate good idea to find out the km's of the engine thats in it. and it will need certification if its not already, this will be extra work like driveshaft hoops etc. Price a bit on the high side. dont pay too much of a premium because its an M50, you can do the qhole swap including purchasing the engine for 1-1.5k now

yes 400 starting to get up there especially for an NZ car. but wouldnt be worried about it, have seen them fall apart at less than half that. proof if you look after it it will go forever

i have some Hartage centre caps somewhere in my pile of bits. they are for 1pc rims but probably fit 3 pc too. moving house in december will unpack boxes then and find them for you if you want

yes, in lots of ways if the conversion has been done correctly (with SOLDERED joins not just crimped etc) it should be more reliable than an M20 variety. if it has a manual box and a LSD you will have a lot of fun. post a link to the one you are looking at and we can pick it over for you. your pretty safe posting about Trademe finds here

blair you have got it looking so good now!! is it more power you are after or? dont bother with M50 conversion, go for M52, a bit more beans and same cost now

funny enough its still on google maps, this is my old place http://goo.gl/maps/Gly7P got fined $300 for this. there is an M40 motor under the blue tarp and a front half of an E30 under the pallets. funniest part was that they recommended i get a WOF for the car asap to avoid further fines (if you look "vehind you" you will see my twincam E30, my Lada, and the other half of the car haha

i see, i thought you were saying yours was an off the shelf kit for e34

very nice car, has the rear headrests too (like mine) which were an option your passengers will be pleased the original owner picked. Mine is 100% stock too, will probably get some lowering springs i already have in the shed throuwn at it, that will be about it though i think

not coilovers?? first i have heard if they do

hows the cooling system, has it been replaced? pretty common at that milage and age combination that it hasn't, not a bad idea to get it over and done with before it leaves you stranded. but sounds like a good car, hope to see you Saturday, should be a great run

if you still looking at importing clear rear corners i may join in, but want quality ones not Taiwanese ones

well I know im not the only one that thinks Calypsotrot is the best colour. makes it very easy when i had to get some bits painted a few weeks ago, could get stuff for both cars painted on the same mix of paint ha

Saw topic title. Knew Ron would have a field day. Was not disappointed. Alex, most of the threads you read that say they are better are from American websites where their cars are different to ours, so doesnt translate, they have different cams, DME maps, even their grades of fuel are different, there is a lot of variables around this as with any mod. Listen to Ron, he has the definitive answer. If you are building a racecar with other mods and/or a turbo etc, then do the swap. if its a road car and its your first step, forget it.

JKSE

alternatively, once you know your one is faulty (if it is), open it up and have a look for moisture, dry solder etc.

quite possibly the LKM (light kontrol module) they are pretty common issue with these cars. swap it out with a known good one, if the problem persists then look elsewhere, but its a good place to start. I have a spare one here, in a parts car but you will need to come to Seaview to try it if you want. and it wont be for sale.

would rather one of these higher milage units than the examples that are only 60,000 or so

wouldnt be many wanting to advertise that.....

yep! (excuse silly plate on my car, thats not the registered plate anymore, got a better one)

Sorry guys been a bit slack keeping you updated. Just got reminded to update this. ok so called them up mid last week when i got to work, FedEx looking into it on Friday, they admit its gone, can i organise to be resent out. I said yes but who pays. No email back from them, but I assume they must have contacted the guy that makes them, because i got an email at 1am this morning that a parcel was on its way to me So should have by Friday this week, and out to you early next week If any of you that are still waiting for them are coming along to the Wellington/Lower North Island meet, send me a PM and I can bring your ones along to that

very cool

Correct, also suspension. Definatley has AC Schnitzer wheels. Mirrors could be E34 M5/E36 M3 type, a bit hard to tell from photo. Side skirts could be AC Schnitzer too. front and rear aprons definately arent AC Schnitzer though I am not a "slam it to the ground" type of person, but still recommend coil overs. My touring is on coilovers, and my god. E34s are boats at the best of times, now its on the coilovers, it handles like an E30 or E36 does, but of course, the weight is still there can't be bothered posting photos here, but here is my thread on my Touring if you want to see the height on coilovers. the photos after about Page 3 or so (at a guess) are on coil overs while the ones toward the start are on Vogtlands. There is about 1.5" up or down they could go from whats shown, if you wanted. also, it has a genuine AC Schnitzer front and rear body kit on it towards the end too. I also have a spare AC Schnitzer body kit if your interested, quite sure its genuine too http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=502437&highlight=v12+e34&page=5

If your heater box the electric type with horizontal dials, or the earlier mechanical type with rotary dials? either way, as a start, make sure they are to full hot with the fan on full tit, see if that helps

they are all cross compatible though. spring rate is slightly different thats all. what do you want for them? i have ebaichs for my E30, but id rather H&R, i have had them before and they are good.