_ethrty-Andy_

Not sure if it applies to E38 but on the E34/E32 there are different grades between the 6s the 8s and the 12s, most people on the forums used to use 750 spec stuff makes steering a bit heavier but last much longer in applications where they are driven a bit more enthusiastically than most people would. Something to look into any ways

Want a tow bar with all hardware etc, preferably with tow module for taillight wiring MUST be type with slide in/out removable hitch If there are variations it is for a facelift SWB

Thank goodness they are on a coaster each. you wouldnt want to mark the table.

^there was an Emola red at Manfeild on the weekend.

Did you hear Jooles 850? thats what you want.

Actually. Ron you are wrong and I did a typo earlier. top hat is the spinny piece at the top. the upper strut mount I actually typo'd when i said that before. the drop hat is the top spring purch (or perch) to prevent the spring from toching the spinning top hat. which when using an E90 one on an E30 setup lets the spring sit up closer to the top hat.

On the whole they seem to be pretty reliable but i can see why you are having heat issues. Let me know if you get fan/psu/components fail as we have those come through work and ones similar. Probably have some more blades for it too if not populated. Im sure i can donate to keep Bimmersport running.

Having said that, Bimmersport is hardly a high demand website, not does it require a datacenter to keep the wheels turning. What does it run off James? or is it hosted through your work?

no idea but wouldnt have been anything special. I have never driven at Manfeild, never used this car, and never used a manual box on a track before.

Done a bit of research on it now and seems to be no easy solution to the problem other than keeping the tank full. Have been advise modification inside the tank will need to be inspected if i do anything competitive. Cant find any off the shelf solution to the issue, a piece to replace the factory cradle with revised design with some sort of bucket would be all thats needed? its by no means my area of specialty tho and i was driving it hard alright, will be better with some better brakes and i can put it in harder with more confidence i can slow the car if needed!

poker nights barber shop quartet and replying to open letters i am surprised you have time to breath!

i want that. All the options I want. The 2.8L is a good engine in its own right and does actually move the car around very adequately. and much cheaper to maintain than the V8s too. 740i is good for towing, and if you like the V8 sound, otherwise the 728 is all anyone needs.

Fans dont work over the long term, they just blow the hot air around and make it even warmer, need a solution to get the heat outside. Only way is to throttle back performance really.

130,000 from my 328 parts car. pumps very strong, but only does it on hard right handers (all the fuel goes to the left) and when the tank has less than 1/3rd in it. as soon as i filled it back up before the next session, problem gone again.

Just a design fk up or some other reason? does seem strange if they are an OEM-equivelent part. or are you using 4cylinder top hats (45mm type) with 51mm 6 cylinder struts??

yep see second half of my second sentence. you dont buy an M3 to nanna it! but you do buy a 318 auto like Nathan has to nanna it.

Oh also, briefly touched on my not needing an LSD above, doesnt spin inside wheels at all because of the sticky 225 R888 tyres... But i didnt comment on the ratio. Max speed i achieved today was 175 with a good exit from the last corner onto the long straight before having the brake at the 150m mark. Consistently achieving 160-170km/h before having the brake. No idea how long that straight is compared to other tracks, but there you go. and the gear ratios are pretty well perfect. used 3 4 and 5 all day, just getting to the top of 5 at those speeds, however engine is red lining at 5500rpm not 6500rpm as it should be??? but its right on peak power at that point

the guibos are not cheap either for some reason. in most cases it should last the life time off the car, but other failure in the driveline or abuse from erattic driving style of course speeds up failure too.

check your fuel system from top to toe.

so during the week finished getting the car ready for the track. As per my list in my last post, made a door car from some 4mm particle board lying around, will take it back off at some stage and paint it red so its not so garish. Moved seat more towards middle of the car, also added some washers between the bolt/nut and the seat to make the anchor a bit bigger. And fitted a set of Toyo R888s as recommended by everyone here, found two auctions with some good sizes, so running staggered setup, 205 on the front and 225 on the back. Havent got round to putting the M50 manifold on yet. one day... Some of you will know i took it on its first real play date today to iron out some bugs, and try to get some return on my investment in the car! Up at sparrows fart and off to Manfeild for a Playday on Track. Signed up for the slow group. New Car, and never driven at Manfeild before, im not about to get big headed about it. After very first session driving pretty sedately and learning how the car moved etc i was about the upper side of middle. The lower side included a 1200cc (if that) Nissan March and one of the Diahatsu things off mighty car mods, the competition wasnt exactly tough, but awesome to see those guys out there having a go!! Second session started to put the hammer down some more, and by the third i was driving it hard like anyone would. Forth session, noticed a wee bit of fuel surge, by this time i had chewed through about 2/3rds of a tank. Instantly recognised the feel and backed off, kept driving it though, just full hammer down on anything that wasnt a right hand corner! Pulled in, and drove to the servo nearby, those that havent been there Gull are pretty well on site which is usefull, like at Hampton. Will need to research on how to set up a surge tank system, or look at my options here, as running out of fuel isnt a good look. Fifth and Six sessions i decided to drive it hell for leather and try and sort of try and over cook it a bit so i could learn where the limit was. I couldnt find it. The car has more grip and handling than is required. Not to say i told you so to anyone, but an LSD is not required for this car. the whole time not even one hint of wheel spin under power. admittedley, the R888s were well heated by the time i was driving the car hard, but yeh. The suspension setup is nothing flash. Jamex sedan/coupe springs all round, rebuilt Bilstein shocks in the front, and OEM rear shocks (Billys in the back were far too hard in my road testing) At this point, should have moved up to the medium grade, but various other vehciles in that grade were dead or sick by this point, the medium seemed to virtually dry up, so was only slow and fast and exotics. no way near comparible to the fast ones. Was told by various people through out the day that it was a very quick car from what they were seeing, and one guy at the end said i was by far the quickest in the group. The top end of this group was an E55 AMG (pulled off early in the day) and some various Australian and American Muscle, which were quicker in first half of straights, but the little ol' compact can hold a lot more speed in the corners, and brake much much later. Throughout the day, the brakes were reliable, but could and should be better. Was braking at the 120m mark for most corners, any more and i messed up the corner and/or the ABS would let me know its there. and the corners after the two straights more like the 150m mark or maybe a bit more. I dont think the rear brakes are doing much. they are the original compact ones, and like the body, have been sitting for 5 years or so, so not working correctly. still some rust marks on the rear disks where the pads are not contacting the disk, all after a day of beating on them. So will have them rebuilt, and will fit a set of race brakenpads front and back, not sure where to buy them from. Need Compact rear, may be same as E30?? and 328i front. will see how they go, can always look at spending a bit of dough on the brakes to get them right. This initial testing phase and improvements here must also come under my budget, i still have a fair amount of room to play before i hit the $2k mark which as above promised i must not go over ... So Things for the to do list now: M50 Manifold swap still Surge Tank or similar system for fuel. Improve brake performace. All three before Pukekohe in 2 weeks time If anyone is keen for the Pukekohe open day on the 5th Feburary there is a group of us going, mostly E36 some E30s some other stuff.

yep or starter/alternator cables perished. very coomon the V12 models

Lion Brown.

X brace is well documented to have the biggest gain on the E30 convertible. there is actually less tower movement in a cabby compared to a sedan/coupe because of the rigidty plates tying them to the outside of the car. insteal, the whole front end moves in relation to the back, this is what you want to stop, and need an underbody X brace to do so. remember its all extra weight to an already heavy car (about 1450kg stock). the cabbys just arent sports cars.

and yet BP can give fuel away for free. going off topic a bit here..... I dont believe those diagrams at all. if fuel really had so little margin in it, it wouldnt be profitable for the oil giants, nor would they be price competitive.

Air Namibia tells me all I need to know.