my_e36

As topic. All this just to fit a set of wheels?

That's a great idea. Definitely keeping an eye on its development.

Pretty sure the active steering interface between the steering wheel and the rack. So it doesn't directly interfere the suspension bits that hold the alignment. I would imagine a "normal" wheel alignment will do.

First of all, in e46, there are 2 types of SMG. One for the M3 and the other for the non-M3 (aka SSG in the US if you look on forums over there). For the non-M3 version, there are a 5-speed version and a 6-speed version (which shared with Z4) I agree on what Neal says above on driving SMG not lifting the accelerator and the down-shift blip, it's the best part and the major difference for SMG vs Manual/traditional Auto. These behaviour applies to both M3 and non-M3 version. But in a non-M3, there's only 2 shift speed to choose from, Sport and non-Sport. I had a 6-speed version in my 330, which I found it pretty good. If you are NOT in a hurry, leisurely drive in Auto (C mode for Cruise) is relaxing and suits the car well being a non-M. Sport mode do have a quicker shift and clutch take-up and give you that sense of "Sport", it's no M3 territories but then again suits the car well. During the 3 years 55k ownership I had no trouble in that area of my car. Certainly will not shy away from buying another one. Clutch shudder is common on SMG when cold, mainly to do with the hydraulics being a bit sticky when cold. once warmed up it should be normal. If still doing it once warmed up, it could really be the clutch nearly finished. SMG computer will need a reset to re-learn the take-up point after a clutch replacement. Harsh change/jerkiness can be due to the engine/gearbox mount. Fairly cheap part, when a car done 100k on the clock, that's just normal wear and tear. Last words: Launch Control is a lot of fun (you get that with the SMG, M3 or not). It really shows you what the car is capable of in a straight line.

Just re-checked my original link, seems ok. But use this... http://www.bmw.com/com/en/owners/accessori...-catalogue.html Don't see the point of "after-market" ETK when there's one straight from the source. Maybe except when trying to find out prices...

Noticed you've mentioned your new pads are slightly down on bite, just wondering if you have changed the brake fluid as well. It can make a big difference on how the brake feels. Especially if it has been a couple of years since the last change/flush.

When you remove the cluster from the dash, there will be no need to remove the steering wheel.

Those rev can go crazy low on a diesel but still pull like a train Here's my little 3-cyclinder 1.4 TDi on a VW Polo

Can you not use a VM for your Windows stuff?

He's been doing that for like 20+ years. He must have got sick of it but hanging in there for the $. Some say he gets paid UK$1m per season or some like that just for Top Gear TV program.

It's a good deal but I suspect they weren't supposed to be sold like that. (as in sold with a new computer only) I guess grab it while you can.

Pretty sure the manual says 33 psi front, 38 psi rear when cold. Probably use them to start with then adjust to taste.

Did you know if your home Internet is with Telecom, you get McAfee free?

Do it. It will be a blast. This will get you started. http://www.howtogermany.com/pages/import-car.html

Welcome. Check alignment first and any worn bushes in the suspension. if they checks out, could be just driving style. For tyres, Firestone East Tamaki is a good place for me. Very friendly and knowledgable. Run flats are fairly limited in choices. Do phone ahead or drop by to make a booking and quotes. You could also try places that does Pirelli, Continental and Michelin

Nah, this is the ultimate lifestyle. Multi-storey apartment, and your car is parked next to your living room! https://www.facebook.com/video/embed?video_...413467848727098

I agree, used to love their races too. Even though they are obviously pre-arranged and scripted. The new episodes just didn't appeal like it used to. Maybe because the show hasn't had anything changed in its format for such long time.

From this sentence, I would say a 330 is a better choice than a 540. Depends if you need the second pair of doors on the 5-er. 330 is a bit less thirsty (mine was around 12L/100km), should make it a bit easier to live with. It's quite comfortable on open road (thought I must admit not as comfortable as a 5-er). Twisties, 5-er is capable, but 3-er being smaller and lighter, it will be easier and more fun.

It's not going to help, but seems things have changed a lot since I last made a windscreen claim... 7-8 years ago, I claimed a E36 coupe windscreen and I was allow to use OEM screen and had the work done by Jerry Clayton BMW. That was AA, no excess. 2 years ago on my VW had got broken into and need a driver door window, I can use OEM glass and work performed by Giltrap VW. That was Lumley, no excess, Anyway, I am pretty sure they have a clause in the policy that says they will restore the car to "pre-accident condition", surely that would mean an OEM glass if you had one to start with?

Could be just a rental. We all did something similar in an rental at some stage.

eBay. There are even milled aluminum ones out there.

Hope these help.... 1 by SpikeyLemon, on Flickr 2 by SpikeyLemon, on Flickr

I could be wrong, but this is my understanding of the rules... Q1. Old owner will need to pay the outstanding rego up to the date the ownership transfers. You pay from that date forward. Q2. Old owner need to pay the outstanding rego till the day it got de-registered. New owner start fresh by re-compliance with new details in the system.

Someone suggested Resene Revive before. hope it helps.

There's a BMW branded glass polish that worked well for me in the past. Special order from any BMW dealerships, around $30. Part number 83 12 0 009 881 Ask for it by the part number, as Team McMillan and Jerry Clayton's parts people had no idea when I ask them for "Glass Polish".