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Get the Beisan Systems ones as they are the best by far; http://www.beisansystems.com/

I think its worth the money to upgrade the shocks konis or bilstiens, as the stock shocks are not renowned for their longevity. To save money have a look at importing from demontweeks in Wales as its usually the cheapest source even after taxes and shipping.

Graham, NZPost is government owned so complaints wont get you anywhere. If they perform badly (which they do) then they lose customers but they still have a job because they are funded from the taxpayer. If a private company performs badly then they lose customers and eventually close, so they are incentivised to perform better.

NZPost has always been the worst and I avoid them wherever possible. My orders from Schmeidmann come straight to my door from Europe within a few days - its pretty impressive.

Did the guy just drive off? Did you see it happen?

Give us more info and we can help.

Yea, BMW says 24,000 kms but that is just too long for me. My "good" beemer will be getting much more regular oil changes.

Haha, its been five years since this thread, and the cars still haven't sold. https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/cars/bmw/auction-240089175.htm

I dont know much at all about the n52 motors - my ccv experience comes from the earlier n46, m54 and m62 engines. Maybe a temporary catch can will show if oils getting past the ccv?

Did you replace the ccv hoses too, cause they are known to block or break down.

By filter cap, are you referring to the power steering cap as these are very common to leak. A new oring or cap will fix that problem. Like qube says oil filter housing gasket and rocker cover gasket are common leak points. I do my oil changes every 20k kms, but everyone is different.

What are your thoughts on the Hankooks over the re003's?

Yea get a proper scan. Check for vaccuum leaks. Clean out the ICV, throttle body, and maf as thats free and should be done anyway.

Usually when you bleed you start at the brake furthermost from the master cylinder and work your way from brake to brake, ending at the brake closest to the master cylinder. Make sure the master cylinder reservoir is full the whole time. Maybe the amazon valve thing is no good? I would get a friend to pump the brakes and do it the old fashioned way.

Different pads have different break in procedures so make sure you follow the break in instructions for your specific pads. If there is air in the system the brakes will feel spongy.

Nice nail polish.?

m62. I'll do a google.

Haha, yea thats what I'm planning.

500 sounds like an excellent price.

Do you reckon the paint would be fine on rocker covers? I dont know what temp rocker covers get to.

Just thought I had better add that Wagstaff European on Marua road was NOT the front for the headhunters gang. The place that was the front was further down Marua road and has changed into a general workshop.

Did you have to buy hi temp resistant paint?

Those are good compression results. Rocker cover leaks (amongst many other oil leaks) are common on this engine so replace and clean the engine and look for further leaks. Also valve stem seals WILL fail on this engine. Basically the tldr was; Engine overheated and the cooling system leaked into the transmission. Removed trans, disasembled, cleaned and reassembled and put back in car. Milkshake was still there and it turned out the headgasket had died at the same time the trans had milkshaked. Replaced head and all associated stuff like chain and guides and headbolts etc. Car ran perfect for 150kms then a valve spring snapped and lunched the engine.

I've also found kerosene helps. I have a tub in my garage of kerosene that I soak parts in. Not sure what it would do to rubber parts though, so I would be removing those first.

Engine is a N46B20. I have had experiences with this engine; http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/54944-so-this-happened-today/?tab=comments#comment-592902