zero

If they are missing that is definitely it. If they are cracked or ripped that is likely it too. If that doesnt sort it your next step is a smoke test

Scan it. Could be either a vacuum leak, or failed coil, or failed spark plug, blocked fuel filter

Common vacuum leaks are disa valve gasket, intake elbows, rubber bungs at back of manifold. Have you done a smoke test yet?

The n46 engine is notorious for valve stem seals failing. It happens to all of them as the valve stem seals were faulty from the factory, and at about where your current mileage is. Keep your fingers crossed that its the cvv. If it is the cvv, replace it and its associated hoses, and sell the car. Then buy a six cylinder or diesil powered e90.

I swapped on a known working maf from my other car and after 200kms of driving the engine light has not come back on yet so fingers crossed.

@aja540i Andrew might be a good person to ask?

There are a few options out there ranging in price. If money is not an object I would get the flaming river one. I made my own using parts from the e46 and the Holden Barina. More info at this link; https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php/Corsa_Steering_Linkage

I cleaned and tested all the injectors when I replaced the orings, and also used a bottle of injector cleaner in the tank. There are no exhaust leaks. @B.M.W Ltd - do you have any advice on what it could be?

@B.M.W Ltd In your opinion, do you think something like timecerts or helicoils would be good options for a performance engine build, even if the block tested fine?

So, I'm still chasing similar codes to the ones @Ahmedsinc was. Even though I had replaced the ccv and hoses a few years ago, I replaced them again last week but the following fault code returned after about 50kms - 227: Lambda contol tolerance Bank 1. I also used a new inlet manifold gasket of course. Over my ownership I've also replaced both intake boots, both rubber bungs at the back of the manifold, new disa and its gasket, the 'f' piece and both its hoses, injector o-rings, dipstick o-rings, fuel vacuum rubber hoses, fuel filter, throttle body gasket. I've also cleaned the throttle body, the idle control valve, and the maf. I've also replaced the throttle body with another used one I had lying around, and checked and cleaned its connector. I'm pulling my hair out - anyone have any ideas?

This ^^^^^^ Go with the bigger stud if you are going to this much hassle

I could be wrong, and maybe Glenn could correct me, but I think the way it is done is they pressure test it with a florescent dye and inspect with a special light, so any cracks will show up.

You can also get thicker bolts and a jig to re-thread the holes bigger.

In NZ try Euroitalian or Milland, or import from Fcp euro or Schmeidmann

The blanking plate and gasket is alot cheaper than another secondary air pump too

Can I ask why? Most people do the air pump delete.

Talk to Kayne Barrie. He makes them and they are very good.

Mate, I was just asking, not accusing.

So its not a real 540is then? The seller is lying?

You have a jack in your boot. How else would you put on the spare tyre in the case of a puncture?

First off you need a proper tyre place. Not balancing the wheels or doing an alignment is bad advice. Somewhere like autolign will do a proper alignment. Put your old wheels on the back and see if the noise is still there

Um, I cant remember sorry

What is the performance and drivability difference like?

On the news I thought they said that Amazon international wont ship to Aussie after the law change? Did I hear it wrong?

It was a great watch. Sadly the lefties would never allow a street race in the future. I still remember them cancelling the Auckland street race.