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Pictures would be awesome

Nice wheels. What size tyres?

Oooooo I do like my wagons.....

Try the forum sponsors. Also bear in mind that the coolant tank always fails on these cars, so you should swap it out at the same time. Sometimes the back plate can be salvaged.

Similar to part #4 on the link; http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=AN56-EUR-07-2000-E46-BMW-330i&diagId=17_0141 Which car has the problem? the e46 or the e90?

Looks like the auto transmission thermostat?

I'll take it.

PPI was done in May. PPI only got half way through before it was aborted because of so many faults (clutch, abs, timing chain, vanos, all four rotors, radiator etc). Did the seller disclose these faults (especially as some are safety related), or get them repaired? Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

Thanks for the info, and sorry for the threadjacking. Hopefully you find one.

I thought it was just the North American M52's that got the iron block (excluding the TU and the ones destined for the Z3) ?

Just curious how the South African version is different?

Yea, adjustable camber plates for the win

Hopefully this isn't the one with the massive amount of faults/problems? What did the pre purchase inspection pick up?

Wow, I had no idea the speakers bolted directly to the doors in the compact. Pity BMW didn't do the same for the coupe, sedan and wagon as it makes a huge difference.

Thats a big improvement if your only mods so far are cams and exhaust. What were your torque results?

Yea I have that. $30 plus postage. PM me if you want it.

Weakest part of the e46 sound setup is the speakers. 2nd weakest part is the amp (if you have one). Headdeck is third weakest but is not terrible. Another major problem with the e46 is the speaker location. The front speakers are connected to the door card and not the door, so there is no chamber behind the speaker and they vibrate like hell. Modifying the door by cutting a hole behind the door and using a solid baffle makes a HUGE difference. Here is my first prototype with rimu timber (its a very hard wood) and bolted to the metal with really strong screws/bolts and sealed with plasticine. After this I covered the whole door on the inside and outside with sound deadener, including over the baffle. Then speaker installed with its gasket and very strong screws. My advice would be; 1. build or get built the door pod and cut the door as I have done. 2. then install a good quality 6.5" driver and tweeter component set in the front (you can get better speakers than the bavs and cheaper). This will provide you with a huge improvement. If you want to improve further; 3. install an amp (or amps) under the parcel tray to power the speakers, and replace rear parcel tray speakers with the same brand and series as the front. These need to be secured well as the connection is not very strong here either. If you want to improve further; 4. replace headunit. Other things that should not be overlooked is sound deadening, quality cabling, and quality connections. Always solder connectors instead of crimping or terminal blocks and use heatshrink so there is no chance of oxidization. You can create a quality result without blowing the bank.

I will check for you tomorrow.

Did you notice any improvement in top end power, or any loss of low end torque?

Graham, wanna go halvsies? I'll sell my wife to come up with my share - maybe you could sell your daughter.

I've had bad experiences with pit stop in the past, and I know others have too, but I also know each branch is very different.

Not a fan. Better results and for cheaper can be done than the bav system.

Awesome, thanks brent. What power did you get? GLWS

I know you didn't want Botany motor worx recommended because of the location, but it is well worth the drive, especially for such an important job. Glenn is the best BMW mechanic in Auckland IMO.

Have you got a pic of the dyno results Brent?