Olaf

Date: 10-15 Dec 2024 Distance: 216,280 kms 1. Remediation day. Front ARB Replacement - installed the ARB from the post above. Bushes were replaced recently. Diff Replacement - including front differential bushes. Fresh Penrite 75W90 Synthetic, new bungs. What Diff'rence Does It Make? PSU Reservoir replacement. Eliminating that annoying leak. New Power Steering Reservoir awaiting install. (Image: Jon Begley) Headlamps: Replaced both main beam bulbs D2S Xenon (headlight out). Left hand had been intermittent - it seemed to dislike the thought of the outside world! Tailgate stops: replaced tailgate stops to remedy leak into cargo area. They're a sh*t to get to! New Tailgate Bump Stop installed (Image: Jon Begley). Guess it's time for a thorough clean around the hatch, then. Cooling System Low: I'd had to put in about half a litre of coolant every 8 weeks or so. Jon noticed evidence of coolant loss. Yechhh - that'll be coolant on the outside, then... (Image: Jon Begley). Traced to both hard lines beneath the intake manifold. We'd replaced them in 2019/2020 with Rein items. Very disappointing that they'd failed already. Sourced new genuine BMW items from Continental Cars BMW Wellington. It was 23 months since last coolant flush, so after pressure testing, new genuine BMW Blue coolant 1:1 per factory recommendation with deionised water. Ready for new coolant pipes Oil Leaks: removed belts, front covers, oil filter housing. One thread had failed last time the job was done; this time the remaining three needed helicoil repair. Helicoil tools of trade Jon shows the battlefield after helicoil action Oil Leaks Continued... New filter housing gasket. On prepping for valve cover gasket set replacement (Elring 318.590 includes the grommets; I also bought new genuine BMW washers), Jon found that my valve cover was cracked. It's becoming a common 'feature' of M54's at this age. I was dispatched to Pick-A-Part to secure a suitable replacement. M54 Valve cover in the wild at Pick-A-Part Having located one, it took me 35 mins to successfully remove - not bad given I'm a geezer and out of practice. 35 mins later... Hairline crack found in two of the apertures - it'll have to do for the next four or five months, guess I'll be sourcing a brand new one. Bugger. Oh well, better than what was on my car... it's a temporary. Reinstallation.... Inlet manifold , covers, (the seals were still excellent, replaced when the starter motor was replaced recently), oil filter housing, alternator, belts, oil filter (Mann) and fresh Penrite HPR-5 5-40 Synthetic; Air Filter (Mann), Cabin Filter (Corteco) fitted. Ran up to temp, checked levels and for leaks. Tested OK. Multi-function Steering Wheel: more detail in a dedicated post below. Next Steps Now I'll prep the battery tray from the parts car, rust convert, etch, prime, and hit it with the gloss black Rustoleum all-in-one-paint. During the xmas break I'll get the old battery tray removed from our wagon, prep, rust-treat, paint, and install the freshly-painted replacement. I also need to treat minor surface rust beneath the car. I'll get it up on the rack, clean, then a couple of coats of Brunox, and then ColorPak Pro Series Rubberised Underseal. Finding a replacement high pressure steering line is on the todo list, as mine is weeping. And I'll work on the stereo prep. Get my 3D printer up and working, print some front speaker adaptor rings. And get some cost-effective faux-Dynamat from Aliexpress, start prepping the load area. Never-ending story, taking care of an older BMW. Still, even with just 190 bhp, the 325i touring is a fun drive. I also need to look into rebuilding Bilstein B8s. More on that soon. My thanks to Jon and Keren at Begley Motor Worx in Marton. Great professional service! Wouldn't be a big update without a punny musical reference, would it?

Date: 7 Dec 2024 Paint Prep - front 24mm ARB. So in prep for the next appointment at Begley Motor Worx, I'd sourced a replacement front ARB, PN# from Ray at Hell BMW (thanks Ray!). I cleaned up the ends and bushing contact points with a flap disk, give it a quick coat of Raptor Etch, followed by some Primer Surfacer (yes, a belt and braces job). I didn't bother with inter-coat sanding, protection is the name of the game. Fig 1: Colorpak Primer-Surfacer getting some late afternoon sun. Then I hit it with the Rustoleum All-In-One Gloss Black. A dusting coat, followed by a wet coat about 5 mins later. 40 mins later I gave it a second coat. Fig 2: More blackness Fig 3: Blaaaaaaack. I love this stuff, it makes me look like a good painter! I left it to harden for a couple of days. My old one was looking a bit crusty, I should've stripped and painted it back when I installed it in 2016. It had gotten pitted, even though it was well-greased. That's a hint for ya'll - check out your ARB bushing points for rust.

I was back at the parts car yesterday. Powered up the rear hatch with a jump pack, thought I'd look at the wiring, and refresh my memory on how the load space paneling comes apart. It's been nearly ten years since I did the rear shocks. I also thought I'd check what the speaker config is, so I don't need to have this car apart for an extended period, buying the correct speakers for the load space. There was also an outside chance there was some speakers complimentary to the Alpine SPS 171A components (above) awaiting me. Fig 1: RH Load space speaker, showing retaining pin detail Fig A: brave souls: 8Ga power cable for amp connected directly to positive post of battery; fused only in the amplifier. Fig 3: left side load area speaker and cabling detail. I was in luck, there was a pair of Alpine Type S SPS-600 6 3/4" two ways waiting for me. I also harvested the wiring harness, so that saves a little time and money. I'm thinking I'll just go passive front and rear from the Alpine amp, keep it simple. Fig 5: factory mid-bass with sound deadening removed

Today I took the e46 for a run up to Begley Motor Worx, to get some maintenance done. While I was there I harvested some sundry parts from the parts touring: Rear Speakers Audio Amplifier Loom (Power, Interconnects, Speaker Cables) Battery Tray. I'll be treating and painting the battery tray to replace the old crusty one (above). The speakers and loom are a real bonus (more updates in the audio thread).

that's looking very well cared-for. kudos.

mate, that's commitment! how do they sound? how does it go now?!

@balancerider Matt I did need to remove a side panel (clip release), then two 8mm nuts to remove hard plastic trim frame (beneath boot floor). Then it was a couple of 13mm bolts for the hold-down bracket, then remove the terminals, then lift out the battery. Only a little worse than the old e60. How's legroom for rear-seat passengers in the F31 mate?

Date: 09 Dec 2024 Distance: 216,059 kms 1. Groundhog day. Another left bulb Got another telltale over the weekend that left rear bulb was out. Brake light bulb had gone intermittant. P21W 32CP. E46 Touring tail light cluster as Xmas lights Meanwhile in the DHL van are my new headlamp mainbeam bulbs...

Yes, Schmeidmann also seem to have a large cluster of holidays that torpedos shipments - though I forget which part of the year that is.... Thanks for the Hubauer link, will give them a lash!

It's certainly a lot of car for the money. If I win lotto tonight I'll buy it as a bit of ruff. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/x6/listing/5049826942

carrying duties today, ferrying boxes. still a great drive.

you buy it. you care for it. you preserve it. it's a time capsule! get some great 80's tapes, and some classy 80's clobber. wax it, shine your shoes too. timewarp!

has anyone in NZ completed and certed N52 swap? You might find you're a trailblazer here... top marks! 👍

nahh all good we all see dogs layin' a dookie... it's that now every time I see an X6 or X4 - tee hee. https://youtu.be/2sbSS6rn7io

Have you checked RealOEM using your VIN number? It'll specify the right BMW fluid. Then find the standard that fluid meets. Then find a fluid that meets the spec described. And get plenty, unless you're using a trans machine. Also it'll ensure you get the right part number for the pan/service kit. At the moment it seems you're hoping that you can choose the right fluid with conflicting info... doing a pan/filter change drain and fill will run you a good 20 litres of whatever you choose, (you could look into the 'take a litre with engine running, out of the line to the cooler, then add a fresh litre...; rinse and repeat until it comes out clean'); you also need some good service data. Eg: the ZF6 needs new bolts first time as they changed material (the originals get brittle); the mechatronic seal should be changed at same time also as they leak. Suggest you need to look into the 'dark arts' of your GM trans. It'd be a shame to do half the job if there's stuff you haven't discovered and prepared for. Just a thought: why not go to a transmission specialist, pay them for their expertise to use the right fluid and their transmission service machine and put in a service kit that they'll stand by? It might cost you less or the same and net you a better result. Hope that helps.

oh BTW there's a crowd on TradeMe doing discount BluePoint out of Kapiti. I paid little more than a pint of IPA in a Wellington City bar for a lovely 3/8" strong-arm. You might ask 'why bother?'. I guess if I've carried my 3/8" set into Pick-A-Part, I can make it work with a big ring spanner on the end, without buggering one of my ratchets. YMMV. Anyway, it's beautifully finished and feels great in my hand.

if you're lucky, there'll be a courier service that isn't aramex, and your NZ Post driver isn't whacked-out and driving past your delivery point with your parcel in the back. They deliver! This is where your BMWCCNZ starts to pay back, with your 10% off parts... I think last time I bought blue it was about $24 per.

thank you for that rather idelible image. never been particularly taken with the X6; that description sticks! 🤣 .... I think you've clocked the internet today, Matt! kudos @balancerider

BMW Blue, from your BMW dealer. 1:1 with deionised water.

my pic, June 2023, CSL - what else?!

Just an underscoring of the pecking order and work strata of the UK. Back when I was there, when a company was trying to convince me to join as a perm, the company car list would come out.... Audis, BMW e46 or e39, hobbled Jaguars, small Mercedes, Volvos... or most of the standard repmobiles were on offer, in addition to Toyota, Honda, Nissan, Peugeot, Renault etc. You'd pick your car, a small perk tax payment each month, it'd sit in your driveway most days, and you'd have full use and company fuel card, servicing. Pay a little extra per month for some spiciness - really feeding that status hunger. I couldn't see the point as I'd give it back in three years. It seemed odd to me as a perk given I usually flew for business rather than drive. Or if I needed a car, a rental would be delivered to my door, and retrieved when I'd finished with it. I think the whole company car gig in the 90's/00's UK was a big tax rort for the companies. Changes in tax laws and emissions penalties came in after I left the UK.

Are you sure it's not the ZF6HPyy?

Date: 29 Nov 2024 Distance: 215742 kms 1. Battery Replacement I've had a headlamp bulb out. A couple of times the vehicle has spazzed-out while running when I turned from sidelights to headlamps - dashboard-reset with a BeeeEEEp tone, clock resets, trip meter resets. I thought it was about 7 years since I replaced it last? With the help of @Autoglym we metered the batty during start - 11.3v. A new Koba batty was sourced. The old AA3772 (720 CCA, 140 RC, 80 AH) was in fact 2013! I recall when I last replaced the batty in 2013, the original date-marked 2002 BMW battery was in there. So 11 years per batty - nice! The Koba SE57510 was a case of 'nearest avalable' in-stock, 730CCA, RC 125 min, 75AH. It's slightly shorter in height than the AA, so a couple of bits of rubber beneath the sole of the hold-down plate had it sorted. Figures 1 & 2: A Koba batty, amidst the chaos of my sub-floor area, yesterday. Yes it's true: I am a closet hi-vis vest wearer - at least when changing a tyre on the roadside, or photographing. The previous AA install in 2013 was swings-and-roundabouts. He'd used Permatex Battery Protector & Sealer, which foams up and dries in a purple colour - brilliant stuff - and all was clean and intact. PS: Does anyone still distribute this in NZ? It seems to have gone unobtaneum. Unfortunately he didn't reconnect the battery breather vent. 🤯 So the bottom of the battery compartment was a little crusty. I vacuumed up any loose scale and gave it a couple of liberal coats of Brunox. That'll slow it down until I can get in there and paint it. Figure 3: the artist formerly known as crusty, now tramsformed with Brunox. Figure 3a: Brunox. The gold standard in Europe, particularly loved by the folks on retrorides. Figure 4: battery breather vent now reconnected. Car now starts more snappily. (8mm socket for the interior frame. 13mm for the hold-down. #2 phillips screw for the clamp tension. 8mm for the battery clamps). Battery lifting by messrs tricep, bicep, & latismus dorsi. Remixed by paracetamol and codine for us old geezers. Next to order a couple of Xenon bulbs. I didn't have bulbs in my spare headlamps.

yes. diesel crank needs the nose machined up - shortened - and a keyway, I think. All the M42/M44 mods seem to require $$ machine costs, for moderate increases in power/torque.

those rotors look good John, nice work.