Olaf

Hoops only if increase in horsepower is over 50% threshold - unless that rule has changed again.

so on the basis of not the same or less capacity, and; not same number of valves and camshafts, and 138hp (e36 DISA M42) is more than 20% greater than 102hp (M40B16 in my case). Hopefully driveshaft hoops remain not a requirement. Thanks for that ref, @alisterh

iS loom is a score! I think modifying #1 is the requirement due to proximity of mounting hole, and standard spec of those coils. Yes, USA is an M40-free zone. Yes I understand a cert is required, going by the rules. I think sticking with the e36 DISA manifold (if the engine is sourced from e36) is a 'why wouldn't ya?' thing - yes we could be purists and shop for e30 intake manifolds, but you'd miss out on DISA benefits and a few extra horsepower. And as you point out, needs the engine management to run it. @alisterh has a great wiring chart for the C101 adaptor.

Pics or it didn't happen!! ? Sounds very classy. EDIT - Oh yeah sorry there it is!! Wow.

@aja540i Andrew I don't recall seeing that; what was involved?

@alisterh that's awesome, a real wealth of knowledge! Thanks man!

I'm a bit behind @leightonf in readiness, he could probably use the coil plate ahead of me... care to share the PDF? If Leighton doesn't want the plate you have, I can pay you for it.

you're talking about EWS. You can get a chip that takes this out. 1. Are you using an e30 318iS loom? Where'd you find that? 2. I understand the e36 intake manifold works and fits beneath the e30 hood. e36 is the most common source down here in the shaky isles ? 3. I've read (here on Bimmersport) that the M44 works. What I'd like to know, is does it need to be M44 from Z3, or any RHD M44 manifold. I'm preparing for the same repower myself (including cert) for next year. Mind you, my M40B16 is great fun and running really sweetly in the mean time. I'm interested in doing coil-over conversion on M42 also. Have you found a source for the coil mounting plate? Ideally someone's open-sourced the file so we could both get one milled up?

Uncertain; the seal material has changed which I think indicates a (in hindsight) less-than-great material choice. Note that the same seal material is found in N42, M54, N52 etc so not solely a risk with N62 V8. I *think* neglect exacerbates things, poor oil choices or missed oil changes.

N62. Not time bombs, as long as they're looked after. Valve Stem Seals. Yep, costly to do, though can be done without removing head. 5000-7500km oil & Filter changes are a good idea. Coolant tube. Mitigate this with annual coolant flush and replacement. Trans. Same as every other ZF 6HPyy-equipped vehicle. Regular filter (pan), mechatronics sleeve. And proper oil. Very clever trans, lots of money to fix if the f#ck-up fairy... More later!

excellent! though to be sure, you'd be carry two water pumps and no spare, and get a flat. Try fixing that with a water pump! ?

No seriously - I'm asking what sizes you did purchase. All I see above some sizes with "something like that", and you've now clarified they are 19's. Cheers.

HiFly Tyres are not a baseline of anything other than how cheap - let's allocate this decision to a used car lot to protect the guilty - the person paying the bill was! There are many 'generations' of RFTs now, some are much better than others. I've evaluated a few cars for purchase on RFTs and did not find them dreadful. Frankly if you're changing out of RFTs to conventional tyres *and* don't carry a spare, you're nuts. Unless - say - you never leave the Auckland metropolitan area. A blown out conventional sidewall will not be repaired by Tyre Goo when you're two days (or more) away from a replacement tyre.

What sizes are were you quoting at $1300?

Yeah with the cost of Hammerite-specific thinners, cheap brushes (disposable) are the way to go. I've used the White Knight products in Australia close to the coast. Metal door frames that I sanded back, bare-metalled around rust, rust-converted, zinc primed, two topcoats, has held up for more than six years still looking smooth and glossy. Don't write it off as it's australian and from Bunnings. May the gods be with you and it's just patches, mate!

Does anyone distribute Bilt Hambler here? I've read a few very positive raves about it on fora such as retrorides.

I've been doing the rust converter, prime, paint route. I've heard/read that Brunox is the absolute dog's bollocks of rust converter. I'll try that next time I run out of CRC Rust Treatment, or run out of patience. I've had no issues with the Rustoleum all-in-one paint that's been on my parts for more than a year. Barry's been using Hammerite for years. I think it's similar to the POR15 - moisture-cures, and essentially uncleanable brushes. Seemed very good when I used it last week, though no long-term exposure. Are you doing patches, or large panel areas (like floors), @gjm Graham?

^^^ wow that would seem to indicate "avoid"?

If you can't find your air springs locally, it appears there are plenty of options on Ebay. As usual, get the RealOEM part number and shop for quality. Starter for ten: https://www.ebay.de/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=BMW+530i+Touring+e39+airspring&_sacat=0 HTH

I've had zero-toe alignments on my e46, I like them. I've a friend (former racer) who always zero-toes his cars. Sharper turn-in response, though without the relative centring one needs to be a bit more coordinated between steering input and throttle at all times. Some folks never get comfortable with this. I've never tried toe-out, I guess that's wanting to dart into a turn whenever it gets a little more turn, or weighting/camber? Whatever you get, it'll be a learning experience and certainly a step on the journey with a fun car!

but... you just did! ?

Interesting. For some tyres, BMW are unbeatable. Perhaps they don't supply S007's as original equipment or parts?

surely you'd clean and condition the leather, rather than wear gloves because it's filthy?! Or is it that the surface is falling apart? You can buy re-cover kits, and if you've not the patience (I haven't) you can get an upholsterer to do the honours. Some people have oils that are more acidic than others; I guess these folks rot out steering wheels and camera rubbers faster than most.

Grey Thunder handled the trip to Castlepoint and back nicely. I think it's using less fuel, though it's early days yet. Photographer's ride waiting on the side of the road, Wairarapa, NZ. On the subject of car audio, I'm not going to bother relocating the battery to the boot, as BMW didn't in the 318iS. Though I will need to run a high-current feed from front to back to feed the little sub and two class D amplifiers. Would an e46 Battery Cable (rear Mount), or e39, provide what I need? What about e36 or e46 Ti, do they run rear-mount battery and hence provide a source of cabling? I'm thinking of the pick-a-part special ?. Thoughts? Here's the updated maintenance list (in revised priority order). Rear end brake overhaul and spring pads (in parts stash). Update: rear trailing arms blasted and powder coated. Backing plates now repainted. Remaining items: Strip, paint, and overhaul rear callipers. Driver's Window wind-roar: strip door trim, set and re-secure door glass in regulator. At the moment it moves forwad a couple of mm at top of travel, making a wind-roar at the rear top corner. Dashboard: Repair Service Indicator module (including new batteries), repair dry joint brakepad warning indicator, precautionary odo gears replacement. Add RPM guage (in place of main binnacle clock), fitting analogue clock in centre dash area. Electrical: Install the dual horns, Install foglights, Investigate remote mirrors not working and repair. Audio: Rear parcel shelf, Sound deadening under rear parcel shelf, rear premium speakers. 3 pairs od RCA signal feeds from front to boot for amps and sub. Speaker cables from boot to front for future amp install. Power feed for sub & amps. Install sub, Front tweeters. Source and install amps. Interior: Get front seats rebuilt. 30 year old upholstery is keeping my Chiropractor busy after a long journey! Plus getting the top fabric sorted would allow me to ditch the (functional though not stylish) seat covers. Bodywork: Get new driver's door waistline trim and clips. Minor rust-prevention work. Bash plate: Source and fit a sump bash plate suitable for M40/M42. I've seen a kit from an Australian supplier that looks suitable. M42 Conversion: Continue research, collect parts (including M42, M44 exhaust manifold, purple tag rack and LSD), build M42. Research certifiers in Wellington in preparation for install and certification. And here's a serendipidous exposure error turned cool: Not my car in the Wairarapa (though it is my image!). Trippy, eh?

Sorry, I missed your original post @balancerider. I recently had a minor insurace repair on the rear right corner of our e46 (a love tap from behind when my wife was turning left on her way home). Broken lens and minor scuffing. Airflowe on the Hutt Road were excellent, I paid for some additional work and was impressed with the standard of finish, reasonable price too. They're a BMW approved repairer also.