Olaf

@NZ_InFerno Come on mate, pics or it simply didn't happen!!

they were really that busy even before lockdown. needed an alignment as part of insurance repair of a minor love tap. 'Ooh, a chance to experience BMW alignment procedure. Repairer is certed and work with Winger. Should be easy.' thought I. "First appointment - 3 weeks". I used the repairer's other supplier.

Cool project, @Karun! Saw your e28 parked up near the Massey workshop recently ? Watching with interest. Machining from Delrin should be very interesting. You'd still be adding the slugs for weight?

outstanding! and on-track for e30 Mega Meet this year!

In my case I'm fortunate, no change to driveshaft and already factory manual. I agree - pick your certifier and do what's required for the cert plate. Ain't that the truth. Perhaps they assume they're unable to protect us from maintenance stupidity, and the greatest threat is from modifications.

good luck with your insurance company in event of an accident.

sure looks sharp to me.

I think you'll find that the manual conversion will require cert, as you're changing the brake pedal in which case braking system change ===> cert.

Hoops only if increase in horsepower is over 50% threshold - unless that rule has changed again.

so on the basis of not the same or less capacity, and; not same number of valves and camshafts, and 138hp (e36 DISA M42) is more than 20% greater than 102hp (M40B16 in my case). Hopefully driveshaft hoops remain not a requirement. Thanks for that ref, @alisterh

iS loom is a score! I think modifying #1 is the requirement due to proximity of mounting hole, and standard spec of those coils. Yes, USA is an M40-free zone. Yes I understand a cert is required, going by the rules. I think sticking with the e36 DISA manifold (if the engine is sourced from e36) is a 'why wouldn't ya?' thing - yes we could be purists and shop for e30 intake manifolds, but you'd miss out on DISA benefits and a few extra horsepower. And as you point out, needs the engine management to run it. @alisterh has a great wiring chart for the C101 adaptor.

Pics or it didn't happen!! ? Sounds very classy. EDIT - Oh yeah sorry there it is!! Wow.

@aja540i Andrew I don't recall seeing that; what was involved?

@alisterh that's awesome, a real wealth of knowledge! Thanks man!

I'm a bit behind @leightonf in readiness, he could probably use the coil plate ahead of me... care to share the PDF? If Leighton doesn't want the plate you have, I can pay you for it.

you're talking about EWS. You can get a chip that takes this out. 1. Are you using an e30 318iS loom? Where'd you find that? 2. I understand the e36 intake manifold works and fits beneath the e30 hood. e36 is the most common source down here in the shaky isles ? 3. I've read (here on Bimmersport) that the M44 works. What I'd like to know, is does it need to be M44 from Z3, or any RHD M44 manifold. I'm preparing for the same repower myself (including cert) for next year. Mind you, my M40B16 is great fun and running really sweetly in the mean time. I'm interested in doing coil-over conversion on M42 also. Have you found a source for the coil mounting plate? Ideally someone's open-sourced the file so we could both get one milled up?

Uncertain; the seal material has changed which I think indicates a (in hindsight) less-than-great material choice. Note that the same seal material is found in N42, M54, N52 etc so not solely a risk with N62 V8. I *think* neglect exacerbates things, poor oil choices or missed oil changes.

N62. Not time bombs, as long as they're looked after. Valve Stem Seals. Yep, costly to do, though can be done without removing head. 5000-7500km oil & Filter changes are a good idea. Coolant tube. Mitigate this with annual coolant flush and replacement. Trans. Same as every other ZF 6HPyy-equipped vehicle. Regular filter (pan), mechatronics sleeve. And proper oil. Very clever trans, lots of money to fix if the f#ck-up fairy... More later!

excellent! though to be sure, you'd be carry two water pumps and no spare, and get a flat. Try fixing that with a water pump! ?

No seriously - I'm asking what sizes you did purchase. All I see above some sizes with "something like that", and you've now clarified they are 19's. Cheers.

HiFly Tyres are not a baseline of anything other than how cheap - let's allocate this decision to a used car lot to protect the guilty - the person paying the bill was! There are many 'generations' of RFTs now, some are much better than others. I've evaluated a few cars for purchase on RFTs and did not find them dreadful. Frankly if you're changing out of RFTs to conventional tyres *and* don't carry a spare, you're nuts. Unless - say - you never leave the Auckland metropolitan area. A blown out conventional sidewall will not be repaired by Tyre Goo when you're two days (or more) away from a replacement tyre.

What sizes are were you quoting at $1300?

Yeah with the cost of Hammerite-specific thinners, cheap brushes (disposable) are the way to go. I've used the White Knight products in Australia close to the coast. Metal door frames that I sanded back, bare-metalled around rust, rust-converted, zinc primed, two topcoats, has held up for more than six years still looking smooth and glossy. Don't write it off as it's australian and from Bunnings. May the gods be with you and it's just patches, mate!

Does anyone distribute Bilt Hambler here? I've read a few very positive raves about it on fora such as retrorides.

I've been doing the rust converter, prime, paint route. I've heard/read that Brunox is the absolute dog's bollocks of rust converter. I'll try that next time I run out of CRC Rust Treatment, or run out of patience. I've had no issues with the Rustoleum all-in-one paint that's been on my parts for more than a year. Barry's been using Hammerite for years. I think it's similar to the POR15 - moisture-cures, and essentially uncleanable brushes. Seemed very good when I used it last week, though no long-term exposure. Are you doing patches, or large panel areas (like floors), @gjm Graham?