Mad_Max

Hey man, what sort of price have you got on it? And any chance you'd be able to give me some rough measurements so I can try get a freight estimate? I'm keen, and got a guy that's usually very good with freight from the north to the south, so if the overall price isn't going to kill me, I'll grab it.

If you're still looking for some, I found these guys online and have ordered a set, along with wheel nuts and indicator lenses. All up just over $400 NZD landed, so seem to be a great price. https://www.wallothnesch.com/raeder/bmw-2500-3-3-li-e3/katalogbild-36-04.html

Hey man, you having any luck? Or would you prefer I just see if I can get the courier to pick them up as is? Thanks

Thanks, let me know. If it costs for that, I will pay for it, don't want you out of pocket doing something. And I do have a courier in mind, have used him before, so I'll contact him once you know about the tyres and we can go from there if that works?

Would you be interested in getting the tyres removed and shipping them? They'd be perfect for my E3 3.0. If so, I'm definitely keen on them.

https://www.hdi-tuning.co.uk/ecu-remapping/custom-remaps/BMW-tuning/E53-X5-remapping/E53-X5-30D-230BHP-tuning-files.html these guys have a good reputation, you just need someone with Kess V2 to read and rewrite your existing tune. If yours is anything like mine and has no DPF, they can go a bit higher again than their stage 2 numbers. I'm looking at it for my E53, the main thing to remember is your motor and trans have to be healthy before any tunes, otherwise you're asking for trouble. That's easy to explain, they optimise the fuel/air mixture so it burns cleaner. Manufacturers can't tune a car from factory for every single country they are being shipped to, so they use a safe, "one size fits all" tune that delivers their desired power levels whether you're at sea level or 2000 feet up, in a cool climate or an arid desert. Tuning the vehicle to your current location will optimise it so it can use less fuel to create more power. The thing to remember is though, if you tune it for sea level, you may notice a loss in power if you live in a mountainous area, and vice versa, so the tuner really needs to be around the same average elevation that you usually are driving in.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/manual-transmission-shift-pin-kit-priced-each/23117525048/ https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-shifter-detent-pin-set-genuine-bmw-23117525048 https://www.bimmerworld.com/Driveline-Shifter/Shifters-Parts/Transmission-Shift-Pin-Kit-23-11-7-525-048.html Not sure where else you looked online, I didn't think these were badly priced.........

Illegal if it's done at the wrong place, if you get me the new units and send your ones down, I know a guy that can sort it for you at a pretty good rate.

Sucks that this has happened. You're dead right though, it depends on your insurer and their fine print/terms and conditions. Last one I dealt with, I had been paying monthly (was only a couple of $$$ a year over an annual payment, so no interest being applied), and it was cancelled on the spot - no need to pay out the rest of the term. If you wanted to get the car back, I would be happy to donate whatever parts I have to you to repair it, got a 2000 Compact sitting there that's for parts now - my plans for it changed, so it's going to get scrapped. If you're keen, just send me a list - I'll get it, package it and get it on it's way for you. Door glass, complete ignition and door locks (with key), steering column trim etc, isn't hard to grab for you man. The interior will dry out, and everything else looks minor and like it can be fixed. Completely your call, I'm happy to do what I can to help salvage it though if you want. It's a shame to see a decent car written off for minor damage because some butthole decides he wants to charge thousands to repair it, because he doesn't want to do the job but needs to keep quoting insurance work otherwise he won't get any, and because insurance companies are proactively trying to get older cars off the road.

I've got an E3 parts car sitting here, got it with the E3 to restore. Not sure what I'll need off it (haven't started the restoration yet) but will have some bits and pieces. Chrome trims on it from memory are pretty good, bumper chrome is shot, but the resto E3 bumpers are fine so I won't need the brackets I don't think. Same goes for the window trims. Carbs I'll probably hold onto until the resto E3 is done, so I know if there's anything I need, otherwise they'll be up for grabs. Exhaust and radiator should also be good on the resto, not sure of the condition on the parts car. Unfortunately both cars are auto (for now - that will change) so can't help with a manual box or anything there. Just depends on how soon you want everything, I'm flat out trying to get a workshop finished before I can get to any parts cars, if you're happy to wait I can flick you through photos and put sh*t aside for you as I strip the parts car.

That would be awesome if you could, its not anything needed desperately urgent/needed yesterday so if it takes a couple of months that's no worries. Let me know how you get on, thanks it's much appreciated.

How far south do you travel lol? I could be keen and definitely not urgent if it could be worked out.

Yeah fair call on that, completely understand about the weight. The other option is that I may be in Auckland towards the end of May/start of June, so I may be able to meet up with you somewhere to collect, then sort shipping myself (as some can come back in a suitcase easily). Just trying to sort that out now, I don't want to mess you around with it though if that makes sense?

Pick up only, or would you ship? May be up that way in a couple of weeks if that works too, not sure about that yet though.

Dude, I will happily pay for postage so I can give these to a friends 16 year old son, he is dyslexic but wants to be a mechanic, I think this would a) get him interested in trying to read and study again, and b) give him a good understanding of the basics, as he has limited knowledge at the moment, but a desire to learn. Let me know if you're all good with that, and I'll give you an address and pay for shipping (if you can be bothered)

Almost looks like it might be time for a change of "sponsorship" too. Can I suggest, going off the above photo, an earthworks product may be more suitable? perhaps Ditch Witch out of the US - you could call it "Which Ditch" instead lol.

Sorry been having a few computer problems lately, have just sent you a pm with my contact details so we can get it all arranged. Thanks

I'd be keen on the manual setup, if it makes it easier for you I'd also happily take what's left of the shell (once you've sold/stripped everything else of value off it) and pull the manual setup out myself. I'm in Invercargill so would be pretty easy to mission up and collect it, to save you the hassles of having to remove it yourself. Let me know if this sounds like a plan to you and we can sort something out.

Excellent, consider them sold. Do you want to confirm the freight price to Invercargill please, and I'll sort payment. I still have your account details saved (unless you've changed accounts) so should be pretty straight forward.

Have you still got these Arron? If so, would you be willing to ship at my cost? Thanks

Are the other headers up for sale, or just the log style ones?

I'd be seriously questioning your wof guy. The only difference is the direction of the internal vanes, and that is only if they are contoured vanes and not standard straight vanes. If the internal vents are straight, it doesn't matter what direction the slots or drill holes turn. 3 minute video from guys who make brakes to explain. The only time they would be on the wrong side is potentially if they are Brembo rotors with directional vanes. Next time you get failed on something so trivial, do a bit of research - at the end of the day, it is up to the wof guy to prove the car has failed, and what standard. If he can't show the standards or the precise measurements/reasons for failure, the car hasn't failed and he has to pass it.

All sorted now, fuel pump relay was the culprit - didn't even bother checking voltage at the pump. All the terminals on the 3 relays in the boot were showing signs of bad corrosion, so I swapped them for ones in much better condition, hit the key while the fuel rail bleed valve was held open, and fuel gushed out. 10 seconds later it was running fine. First time I've ever run across this problem with an E39, so something to keep in mind for future. Thanks to all for help/suggestions, my friend is grateful her car is now going again. And I am glad that the crank sensor has also been changed, when it was changed by the previous owner it had a cheap aftermarket sensor installed so that has been replaced with a genuine one for peace of mind.

I haven't checked that yet, messing with it yesterday bleeding the fuel rail I managed to get it to fire and run for around 10 seconds, so I'm thinking the fuel pump relay is shot - that would explain why no fault codes are showing. Will check voltage at the plug and swap relays out, see if that makes any difference.

So the plot thickens...... have swapped both cam and crank sensors, the DME fault code that was previously showing in ISTA has now gone away, but still no start. There doesn't appear to be a lot of fuel in the rail, so I'm back to thinking it's an EWS issue. Any other thoughts or suggestions? Cause this is getting frustrating. Everything that was swapped over has been swapped back to the original (fuel pump, MID etc).